JLSleather
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Posts posted by JLSleather
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Nuthin wrong with those - you should get "uncomfortable" more often
Oh, and check your PM's
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There is no "comprehensive" list of hardware for leather folks. Creating one would be a full-time (and un-ending) job.
Obviously, leather people use buckles -- but that alone covers a LOT of ground (thousands of types/styles).
You'll see line 16 snaps called "segma" snaps, which are not the same as "glove" snaps.
Case makers are going to want catches and latches.
Holster people will want snaps and clips.
And that belt guy, and the case guy, and the holster guy, may ALL have use for zippers and buckles.
Just not possible to list it all. Far easier to decide on the type of article you want to make, and then narrow what you'll need (and what it's called).
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50 belts is a great order! Sue - weeeeet.
I think as a rule, the "consistent" folks look for is quality of the materials, uniform styling (like, don't put 5 holes in this belt, then for no apparent reason put 9 in the next one), and the like. Nobody expects them to be identical, and they won't be (which is good).
As for bookkeeping, it's EASIER on the 'big' orders. A lot less 'in and out' spending for the same money. Are these tooled? I find one big help with such ... have a table used for dyeing / drying. I make 5 (or so), color em, set em off. Oil setting while I do the next 5 (ish). Are they stitched? Organize them by which have white or natural thread, which are black thread, etc. SERious aid to your time if you don't spend half a day changing threads and tensions (for example).
Encouragement? Sounds like you already have some ambition, and you already have a desire to do it right. All you need is to LIKE doing it, and you'll be fine
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This onewill spray whatever you need to spray (#1 tip for dyes/detail, #3 if you want to cover large areas - not necessary to switch but maybe a little faster, and #5 will spray finishes/lacquers).
You can order this set WITH a compressor, but the table model compressor is pretty sad, and I think not worth getting. The 12" x 13" binder and the 3.5"x 7" wallet colored with the same brush (without changing tips).
There are other brushes (hundreds) but this one has a pretty good "bang for the buck". Speaking of bang, if you 'ding' it, which we have, a new needle is available in most hobby stores for about $5. Nearly indestructible. The "extra" one I bought "in case" is still in the drawer unopened several years later.
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Oh, that sounds confusing. The needle (especially the smaller #1) I have replaced many times. The "extra" is an extra SET, still in the box. And, this brush also painted that chicken in my avatar (as my skill increases, I hope to have that look more and more like a horse)
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The price of powered machines is not much higher than these "hand crank" models. From this to the 441's with attachments is what ... like $800?
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This 1/4" bead is raised? depressed? dyed only? This will affect the WAY you do it, probably.
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Yes. You can actually use the same thinner for both. They aren't identical, and I don't recommend mixing the Fiebings with the Angelus. I tried that, with some fairly strange results.
OR, go ahead and try mixing - just not on your project. Might be good to see that first hand? Much of what I know about leather came from trying something that didn't work
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Fiebing's dyes have always had a reddish tint in the browns. Add just a touch of green to "balance" it back to a more brown tone. OR, use the chocolate instead of the "brown". OR, Angelus dyes may have a truer brown.
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What's a "S" point, the round?
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Tough to be sure from your picture, but it looks like your nozzle may be partially clogged. Hold the can upside down and spray for a couple of seconds. This will clear any liquid from the nozzle (you'll see it stop). Store it like that. When you get ready to use it, spray just a second or two over a trash can or board (like, anything NOT your project). Maybe that's a primer? Spray what you need to spray (light coats is correct). When done, again, spray upside down until cleared.
The stuff hardens, idea is to have it harden somewhere NOT in the nozzle. And most foks spray way too much of it. A 13 oz can (I think is what they are) should last about .. oh --- 100 years, unless you're spraying multiple projects every day.
Note there is now another 'version' of Saddle-Lac, with more gloss than before. I bought the "extra" glossy by mistake (didn't look as I grabbed), and I don't care for it. Other stuff I've used for years.
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Thank you for the reply. The gusset pattern that goes to it is 24 in long with a 23 in slit for the zipper. Do they sell 23 in zippers? I have never messed with a zipper before this would be a first. I have black zipper with 2 pulls on it that's 24 plus inches long. But brass would be the best?
I would like to hear from someone who may have made one of these to see what they used for it if possable. The pattern came in a pattern pack for holsters. If anyone can help me with this it would be a great help to me. I am stuck at this point and not sure how to procede from here. John
You'd buy a 24" zipper, then remove the teeth from a bit of each end - so the tape actually goes PAST the slot and gets stitched on the ends. I don't know that brass is "best", but it's what I like, and I can't say anything about your zipper, as I don't knw what you have.
I DO know the pattern you're referring to. Haven't made one of those in years. Simple enough, though. You can line with about anything you care to use. Shearling always a favorite (don't know why). You'll see them at times with chrome tanned pig lining, but this has been known to react with some gun finishes, so I've never personally tried to use it (plus, Ive always thought it was ugly, and doesn't offer any protection).
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They do see the leather workers coming, don't they?
Hole punches, carbon steel, sharp and ready to use, up to 3/4" -- called "hollow punch". Price range $8-13 for 7-piece set.
Hole punches, carbon steel, not so sharp actually, but named "leather punch" or "for leather", price range $4/ea and up
Reminds me of that joke my boy told me when he was little ... What do you call a boomerang that doesn't come back? A stick.
Seriously, when you've determined there is something you need, do yourself a favor and think about what you're getting before you swipe the card. Odds are, you can get the same thing for much less -- from someone who isn't "marketing" tools.
Oh, yeah .. a "burnishing mandrel" is a dowel with a groove.
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Not sure what pattern you have,but for a zipper that size I would stick to brass and put it in a leather gusset. If the zipper ever wears out, it can be replaced without tearing up the case. I dont like nylon (or poly) zippers.
About anywhere you shop should have #5 zipper tape (and you'll want 'pulls', bottom stops, top stops). Aluminum available also, if the color matters. Hobby stores often carry pre-fab zippers in different lengths, but it's not worth my time to "hope" they have the right length.
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Re-wetting of the leather can cause that, and some leather is not as tight grained as others. So, first start with a good piece of leather. Next, with a solid color you may find it better to dye the leather, THEN stamp (I've always thought it strange when the same guy who tells you not to re-wet the leather also tells you to dye, dye, oil, finish, etc...).
I understand that's not the color you were after, but I personally think if a guy had a row o' stitchin down each side of the keeper loop it'd be just fine. Future, really is that simple - if it's still too rich for you, thin it more.
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That's quite the drop -- working better for you now?
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Yikes .. she sold one o' these this morning for $59. GOT to have a talk with that girl ... I mean, old Stohlman design, so not like she spent any time at all with layout, but ... Oh, well - it's her show, guess she'll do what she wants.
Math-able.
Carving leather $2.78
Chrome goat $1.
Backing $.50
Calf lace $4.
SUBT $8.30
with dye, finish, cement, wax, call it $9 (which is a bit generous)
Meh ... $59 close enough.
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There is no "right" about this one. You could dye the leather first, though if you're tooling it may be easier to adjust dye shades if you tool first. If you're stamping (geometrics, basketweave, seed, etc) it wont matter one bit.
I oil AFTER the dye, but with a little practice you'll figure which you personally prefer. Here's a picture in leather from a couple years ago. There IS NO tooling, just a pattern that someone on the site uploaded that I decided to paint. Fiebings spirit dyes. No tooling. Red thinned about 20:1 if I remember right (and I'm not saying I do). No tooling, though.
No tooling. CLICK picture to see it colored.
The avatar to the left, on the other hand, is tooled. Tooled, then background dyed full-strength chocolate brown, then pale green/brown mix, then just thinned brown. Light oil, then Tan-Kote.
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That's a BIG shoulder! And, yes, 16 feet. Marked or not, that's 16 feet. You could take an ink pen, and write on the back 16.0, since that's how it's often done (or a marker).
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Pretty tough to learn tooling leather on anything but leather.
Translation: you need leather. Doesn't have to be beautiful flawless leather, but should be leather that tools WELL (you want to see it the way it's SUPPOSED to work).
You didn't mention where you're at. I'm in Iowa, so if you're in the area I'll GIVE you some pieces, just pick em up!
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You want to dye it yourself, or get it dyed and just cut, either way at http://www.wickett-craig.com/index.php/leathers/colors
Or, look at their tooling leathers, which they will split to the thickness you want. Single layers? Lined and stitched?
I haven't used every type of leather they list, but those i've used have been quite good.
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You'll do better researching what people in your area (you decide the area) are charging for the same item in the same quality. "Per hour" doesnt mean anything around here. Seriously, I pay for what I'm getting, not how long it took you to get there. By "you", I mean anybody.
Example:
You make a belt. Fully tooled, good solid leather, good color, and give a warranty - say, if used for what its for, you replace it for 10 years. You price yours at $100 (example).
On the other side o' town, I make the same belt. Except I used a swivel cut where you used a "veiner", they are identical. Cut from the same leather. Guy tells me he can get a warranty from you, so I offer the same deal. But, it took me nearly twice as long as you. So, SOME foks 'logic' says mine should be $200.
This doesn't even make sense.
Do I really get a REWARD for being slow? If I took twice as long and made it twice as nice, this might be legitimate, but remember we're talkin about the SAME belt.
If you call a cab, and he blows a tire, is it okay if he leaves the meter running while the tire is changed? Maybe bill you for the new tire?
Just a tip ... the time you spent on faqbaq (or tweety, or whatever) trying to convince people why it's worth more ... doesn't count in the time to make the belt (and drying time, seriously).
I could go on, but in the end it's YOUR choice to do whatever you want with YOUR leather. Reminds me, that chubby girl has a sale over at cheesey, or etsy, or something like that .. 66% off on already too-low pricing. She's a smart-mouth .. only does it cuz she CAN
Oh, just went and checked ... this one holds standard size cards, one pocket each side, maybe thick enough to hold 6-8 cards .. current pricing $7.06 (free shipping with anything else). Doin the math, that's $2.77 worth of leather, so $3 by the time you add dye, finish, thread, and an extra needle "in case". TRIPLE material cost (standard-ish) would price this at $8.32, but like I said it's a 'sale'. Some prefer an hourly thing: materials still $3, total invested time (including cleaning the brush) 1/4 @ $25/hr = $3 + $6.25 = $9.25
Oh, keep in mind she may not be able to get the whole $9 and change - just because there are 100 guys right behind her willing to do this for $8.32, making the whole pricing thing a dead issue.
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That's a fuzzy sucker, true
I check, personally, that the back of the hide doesn't look like this (it shouldn't). But, if you have a piece already, then possibly the most reliabe (and maybe the quickest) way to solve the issue is to line the strap, stitch the edge. A piece of 2/3 or 3/4 on the back will look nice, add some substance to the strap without making it stiff, allow her to throw some oil at it (or saddle soap, or etc ...) easily.
Still won't help with the pup. Maybe sell her a new collar that matches the bag?
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The createx paints are water based - the 'pearlized' are the only ones I use, and I use them just for that purpose. Far as Im concerned, acrylics don't belong on leather at all (though some would disagree). Leather is intended to flex.. acrylics, not so much. I can tell you the createx paints do NOT penetrate the leather, and this 'disclaimer' goes to each person who practically begs me to use them (which is what it takes).
But, yes, you the solvent will go out of spirit dyes and you CAN go over them with the acrylics (and the acrylics will be no better or worse because of the alchohol dyes).
Hooves On Ground Question - Stamping...
in Figure Carving
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Both.