JLSleather

Anybody tell me what kind of flower this is supposed to be (jonquil?) ? I want to paint it's natural colors, and don't recognize it (how many "shades of brown" did I make of these). Too much glare to tell, but that's Craftaid 6564, if that makes it easier ... Maybe a lilly?

Intense, maybe, but PUR DEE... animated .gif, click the photo [hope that's OK]

Kaint 'member which one, but in one of Stohlman's books he mentioned using drops of glue for "splash" in the water, or raindrops. Something like that may work here, too. I've never done it, because [almost without exception] my work gets used and I suspect it would get knocked off. Just a thought... I do know, though, that I don't use white. I've done adult eagles (the white "hair" feathers) and buckskin horses (the forehead and main) by making the natural leather appear white with color around that area.

You can pick up a decent set of jeweler's files at a hobby store or machine shop supply store for less than $20 that will sharpen LOTS of stuff. I like 'em cuz I can see what I'm doing in there.

You've hit on a question I'm guessing few have ever heard, or even thought about. Calf lace is cut from about 2 oz skins, making it about 1/32", or .78 mm thick. But that's only the middle of the cross-section. Both edges of this are beveled, giving it a section a bit like the over-simplified attachment. I've used lace that was NOT beveled, and while I think that has it's place, I think an elegant check cover isn't the place. You're looking at about 8- 8 1/2 yards for each cover.

#&$@$&%%$&$#$$@#@! Ordered a 3/4 oz "middle of the road" hide, and got back a 2 1/2 oz hide (approx) that looks like it's FROM the middle of the road -- and a credit slip. Just ordered 1 hide so I could see what they have. Guess now I know what they have, or maybe this is just what they send people who aren't looking them in the face (?). Credit slip???? If I wanted the money, I wouldn't have ordered the hide! No, I can't say where it was, because to do that I'd have to give them a chance to FIX it, which I'm not doing (wasn't W/C referred to above, though). Probably good that he's quite a way off ... can't really afford the bad hide, the replacement hide, AND the bail money ...

http://springfieldle...2C1-8%22%2C50y/ OOPS ... that should have brought up the 3/32" (2.3 mm) stuff.

I'm using the stone under your belt for a background on my next project (THANKS!)

Can't seem to find that example at the moment, but I did find a standard downloadable photo. You can see that the stars are where the paint AINT... Worth noting, maybe, that there is no black in the sky...

How much detail in the carving? If the stars are "distant", I wouldn't carve them at all ... paint only. Having said that, I wouldn't "paint" the stars at all, but rather paint the everything in the sky EXCEPT the stars. Not sure how you paint, but there are some posts on here where people "resist" areas of the leather... I'll see if I can post a quick example...

Like this, or something else?

This even works with mice and chickens, as you see...

In Photoshop, I clicked ... Image/Mode/Grayscale Filter/Sytlize/Find Edges There's the 6, though I didn't count a couple of times ya gotta say "OK"... Running to appointment ... but I can show you later if you like. Or, if you have a photo you want done, just post it and I'll do this when I get back

I'm lazy. This color scheme goes from "photocarve" to tracing pattern with about 6 "clicks"....

you understand how long it must have taken to perfect some of the florals and patterns that Al and Ann Stohlman gave to us... Nice layout, I'm liking it. Worth noting, A.S. admitted himself that some of his early work "left much to be desired", but he stayed at it. Mental note to self ... "mirror" image for use in Western hemisphere...

COMMENTS: I LIKE it. Graceful "flow" in the design (yours?). Dark frame supplying contrast (sweet). SUGGEST REQUEST: I'd like to see these designs (or similar) with just a hint of color, as in hold a jug of dye in your hand and TALK about color (just a whisper). CONCLUSION: SUE-WEET.... Oh, yeah ... I'm assuming that the wrinkles in the leather were intentionally incorporated (I can spell that, but don't ask me to say it three times)... If this was incidental, DON'T change it...

7/8 should be fine for this size holster. While I'm not a fan of solid black, I gotta say if you found decent leather (holds form, no drastic thickness changes, dyes evenly) for $20 ... nice.

I use the Paasche VL .... actually, TWO of them. It's a fairly inexpensive, yet broad range toy. Three sizes of tips you can use, though for these spirit based dyes I never use the largest (#5) tip. There are more precise brushes, but this is certainly "fine" enough for this work. New for about $65 US, and parts for it are EVERYWHERE. Attach that with a 10' hose (3.05 m for our friends across the water). I like 10' just because I can use an in-line moisture trap and hang it on the edge of the bench when painting (not have it right under the brush adding to the weight of the tool). And attach that to just about any compressor with a tank and regulator. Mine is a table-top model that makes almost no sound. 1/5 HP with a 1-gallon tank, which is more than enough for spirit dyes . It's supposed to blow 60 lbs, but these dyes only require about 20 lbs (max). They make a VJR ("Junior) which still big enough, but has a gravity feed cup on top that doesn't suit me personally (I like to tip the brush for comfort). And the "AB" model is a finer detail brush but I think not worth the added cost (about triple, and makes a line you need glasses to see). After all that long-winded stuff, here's MY plan... TWO VL models, 1 with a "1" tip and 1 with a "3" tip. Use the VL, let's me connect a 1-oz siphon bottle to cover large areas, or use the metal color cup when I'm just doing wallets/belts. Compressor that takes almost no room, makes almost no noise, and doesn't "puke" water into my dyes at the wrong time (which is EVER). DISCLAIMER: The VL will spray acrylics, but will take closer to 40 lbs of air. Oh, yeah ... the tank is for CONSTANT pressure. Without the tank, you're waiting for the compressor to MAKE the air. With the tank, you're using air that's already compressed and ready to be CONSISTENT.

There is a reducer made for that. Made by Fiebing's, though I doubt it matters. Here's a link for Tandy, but I"m sure it's sold at any of the suppliers. Some of my colors are like 35:1 mix ... http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Liquids/Dyes/2103-115.aspx?feature=Product_5

Actually, this looks GOOD. On the next one, try also rounding the edges of your acorns and "downturned" leaves with a spoon or modeler. Takes about a minute and REALLY makes a difference.

Not sure where I got the idea ... probably an old '60's craft book. I use the Fiebing's black dye (like you mention), but first dye the project blue or green (full strength) then do the black. Buff it (there ARE particles, but a soft cloth takes it down easy), then a light application of Neatsfoot will "set" it. Never any problems that way, though I tried the oil dye (and didn't care for it).

I like the colors of the second, too. Some stark contrast without being too much. That was one of the first "full-size" handbags I made, Tandy "Le Monde" design from the 80's (oops, telling on my age...) Looks good!

Okay, picture a guy bug-eyed from reading the posts and picking his nose (in "deep" thought ). Somebody give me the short version on 1 or 2 good bets on some decent carving leather -- 3/4 oz and 8/9 oz. I used to buy quite a bit from The Leather Factory, BEFORE it was Tandy Leather Factory. Now, I just don't like the idea of paying $2/ft more for the same hide. SO - tell me a good place to buy a couple of hides. I'm thinking that way if I don't get the skins I want, it'll be your fault No, really, somebody recommend somebody (guessing Keving has one vote for Springfield ) Oh, yeah, don't care about the occasional hack mark, but I want good natural color ...

I was just thinking about this TYPE of thing today. Bought a new strap cutter .... you know, the cheap wooden wingnut type thing. I have knives, and I could cut staps with a straightedge. But that's time-consuming. I could have spent $70-100 on the stainless model, but it doesn't cut any straighter (though I'm sure it will wear longer). This CHEAP wooden model is a compromise, and one I would do again. In fact, since this isn't the first one I've owned, I already DID do it again. I personally would not buy a tool for the sake of having it. Otherwise, I'd have dies to cut the taper on every belt width (why mess with cutting it with knives) dies to replace handbag patterns I plan on making more than twice (that WOULD save time) you get the idea ... Oh, yeah ... the guy that did my roof last year used a '79 Ford and some pitchforks that looked like they'd been uder the tires at least once. Roof is beautiful...

looks like filigree work - cut out the background, glue in colored backing, line and stitch. incidentally, I wouldn't have cut out that much ... I would think that with a belt or strap it's been weakened too much.