skyout

Well, playing around with the Gridmaker shows the 13 part X 6 bight is the first size 6 bight that has the first half cycle wrap completely around the mandrel. The 17p X6b, the 19p X 6b and the 23p X 6b will also go completely around the mandrel on the first half cycle run going up. You can see this easily by clicking on the right button on the "half cycle" box that is just underneath the "generate" button. Click that "half cycle" button on the right again to see the second half cycle run down and you see the O1, O1 (or from top pin 1 O2 to bottom pin 2). The Gridmaker will not generate a TH unless the common divisor rule (parts and bights must have a gcd of 1) is followed. Here is the 1st half cycle of the 13p x 6b TH. Here is the completed grid for the 13p X 6b TH. If you need help with resizing for a specific mandrel, cardboard or more permanent PVC tube, let me know. I use cardboard empty toilet paper tubes or cereal box cut to size, put wadded up newspaper inside and use stick pins at the bights. PVC with holes drilled at the bights with carved lines instead of the paper grid should last forever. Here is a thread that Scott, aka SS369, explains how to resize and not get the background checkerboard in it. See post# 6. http://www.khww.net/...p?thread_id=454 The dark gray lines go over. from bottom pin 1 to top pin 1 from top pin 1 O2 to bottom pin 2 from bottom pin 2 O2 to top pin 2 from top pin 2 U1 O1 U1 O1 to bottom pin 3 from bottom pin 3 U1 O1 U1 O1 to top pin 3 from top pin 3 O1 U1 O2 U1 O1 to bottom pin 4 from bottom pin 4 O1 U1 O2 U1 O1 to top pin 4 from top pin 4 U1 O1 U1 O1 U1 O1 U1 O1 to bottom pin 5 from bottom pin 5 U1 O1 U1 O1 U1 O1 U1 O1 to top pin 5 from top pin 5 O1 U1 O1 U1 O2 U1 O1 U1 O1 to bottom pin 6 from bottom pin 6 O1 U1 O1 U1 O2 U1 O1 U1 O1 to top pin 6 from top pin 6 U1 O1 U1 O1 U1 O1 U1 O1 U1 O1 U1 O1 to bottom pin 1 Let me know if this helps or if you need the 17p X6b, the 19p X 6b or the 23p X 6b THs. Rick skyout

Hi seven, If you are just wanting to tie a Turks Head and not the Pineapple Knot, try Tim's great tool that Brian posted for us here: http://khww.net/gridmaker/ You just need to know how many brights and parts there are. I think Brian even has a quick tutorial on using the Gridmaker at KHWW.net. I think Sidney Wood has some charts that show how the THs are enlarged that might help with determining how many parts you're trying to aquire by going aground twice. His web page is listed in my previous post. Sorry, I can't help by looking at you O/U run list as I'm learning, too. lol Rick skyout

From the Urban Dictionary http://www.urbandict...e.php?term=boho One: Boho adj. socially unconventional, Bohemian her thift store style is boho. (and/or) her stress on love and equality make her so boho Two: Boho 1) Style invented by retailers in order to peddle their old styles, and reduce design costs. 2) Style invented by cheapskates to make their thrift-store clothes "cool". 3) Word invented by cheapskates to make their "retro" clothes "in" again. 4) Idiocy, or something retarded like that. "HAY! This ratty old shirt isn't retro, it's BOHO." Rick skyout

Well, I don't know what I was thinking before because I have tied PKs with 4 bights. They were some of the first I learned. So I pulled one of them out for a gander and sure enough, the ends are completely closed up. The pucker effect is obsolete in these as the 4 bights form a square. Here's a couple of pics, hope they help. Here's the 8 part X 8 bight Type 1, 2 pass from the 5p x 4b TH in University of FL colors, GO GATORS! Oh, and my grandson's favorite drink. LOL Here's the bottom of the PK. Sorry it's a little blurry but I hope it's clear enough to see clearly the opening is completely closed up by the bights forming a square. On PKs with more than 4 bights, I've done numerous things to "hide" the wooden core at the pucker. I've glued leather under the bights and I've tucked cord in the accent color as well as the base color just to hide the hole. Dan Alaska told me once that I shouldn't have a hole there, even w/larger bight PKs, but .... I haven't been able to accomplish this either. Another thing I've learned is PKs with larger # of bights don't lay down flat at the ends, they kind of pucker up. My 1st trophy PK with a sharks tooth I lost about 3/16" of the tooth in the "gap" between the core and the cord. The red and black one in the link from my prior post was adjusted for the gap. Well, hope it helps some. Rick skyout

Hi Broke Stand, I start the 1st interweave 2 bights over to the right of the first TH because that's the way Dan Alaska does it, but I think you could start anywhere. The thing you should try to remember is to keep the ends (standing and working) spread out around the knot to tuck them in w/o causing bunching up. Dan's tutorials http://pineapple.myf...d182672b2cb7687 I don't think anything over 4 bights will close completely but I don't remember where I heard that. I have not tied a 4 bight yet to really know. I did find this link talking about it a little but it's for covering handles. See Jim C's post# 2. http://igkt.net/sm/i....php?topic=23.0 Hope this helps. Or you could just do like this and stick something in the bottom. LOL I got the idea for this from Hooey, not that I'm comparing my work to his. Here's my second shark tooth trophy PK fob. You can find/pick these teeth up off the beach all day long in Venice Beach, FL, USA. An 8 strand square sennit to a 5/8" wooden core drilled in two places (out both sides) for the 16 strands of red and black 1/16" nylon line. I drilled 2 holes to accept both ends of the sq. sennit (they are not tied together at the base) so the constrictor knots holding them would not be seen. I hand carved the core for the base of the shark's tooth and I also had to reshape the base of the tooth with a hand file before gluing it in. The base of the PK will actually hold the tooth in place once tightened. I used a 12part X 12bright, 2 pass, Type 1 pineapple knot for the covering. Link to pic at Reply# 10: http://igkt.net/sm/i...php?topic=994.0 ">http://igkt.net/sm/i...php?topic=994.0 Rick skyout

Here's the only negative I've seen on using rope for the core. See post# 8 from Lasse C. http://igkt.net/sm/i...hp?topic=1728.0 Here's a link to braiding over "mountain climbing type" rope using lace from plastic kangaroos. LOL http://pineapple.myf...l&highlight=dog Rick skyout

Hi seveneves, I like pictures, too. It's the next best thing to having someone show you in person. Dan Alaska has posted some excellent tutorials on the PKs at his Pineapple Knot Forum site. I tied almost everyone of them and can say they are GREAT!!! He starts off with a basic PK and before you know it you're tying a ~ ...type 3 - 4 pass (from a 7x6 turk's head). By following Dan's rules, I was able to tie a 32 part x 36 bight, 6 pass, Type 1 Pineapple knot. Whoo Hoo! Thanks Dan for your great tuts! This link below will take you to the tutorials. Check them out; they've got plenty of pics that lead you step by step thru tying different PKs!!! http://pineapple.myf.../index.php?c=20">My link Tom Hall's Intro to Turk's Heads has been mentioned in a post above but I believe it can be mentioned again as it is a tremendous help in learning the PK. You can get a copy of Intro to TH by Hall from Marty Combs' site at: http://www.angelfire...orld/index.html">My link Hall uses diagrams to help explain the PKs. To give you an idea here is the diagram I made for the latest PK I tied (mentioned above). Sorry, it's rope, not leather. I had run out of orange line and used pink that I replaced later when I got more orange. Here's the breakdown of the casa passes by color. And the graph lined to the PK: I would also recommend the following to anyone learning or wanting to learn how to tie a PK. Sidney Wood has an abundance of great info on the interweaving of casa knots and a whole lesson on the Pineapple Interweave. http://www.taylortel...nterweaves.html">My link His lessons on paralleling of a part of the primary knot and especially recognizing the parallel pairs and splitting them properly were invaluable. http://www.taylortel...newiwintro.html">My link I guess we all learn at our own pace, but recognizing/seeing the pairs was really hard for me until Sidney's excellent lesson finally sunk in. Now I can see the pairs while tying. WhooHoo! Thanks Sidney! I made a tutorial/grid that Brian, aka Knothead, posted at KHWW in the tutorial section. Johanna told me she'll be posting it in the tutorial section here soon. It is for the 16 part x 16 bright 2 pass Type 1 Pineapple Knot. This one is from a base 9px8b Turks Head with a 7px8b Turk's Head interweave, which gives 3 zigzags in the finished knot. I hope everyone enjoys it. Just click the link below. http://khww.net/arti...?article_id=145">My link Hope this helps. Rick skyout

Beautiful work as usual Brian. Thanks for all the pics along the way, too!

One thought came to mind about the temperature at the time of application. If it was too cold, perhaps that could cause the peeling???