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I have done a few tests with Oxalic acid. It cleans, but always seems to darken the leather. I do a lot of color dyeing, so I usually want the leather to be as light in color as possible. Does anyone else experience this?

Peter Main has a great instructional book.

Neat-Lac is not compatible with any acrylic. Use Saddle-Lac or Super Shene sprays.

Any white leather I have seen cracked after a while. The acrylic just doesn't penetrate enough to stay adhered.

I attended a class at Tandy a while back since I was new to "Eco-Flo" products. They definitely said you could use Eco-Flo dyes over neatsfoot oil; it actually helps even out the color. I haven't tried it though. Still working mostly with spirit dyes-I like the fumes better!

Fishing season is here and I needed a new “koozie.” The bass was colored with several layers of spirit dye over white Cova Color. The floral design is adapted from a Chan Geer pattern.

I wanted a “different” belt to go with the buckle set I picked up several years ago. After stamping the geometric design, I dyed the belt with black spirit dye and sealed it with 3 coats of Super Shene. The grey antique effect was done by applying a 50/50 mixture of Cova Color with a sponge and working it the same way you would sponge off an antique stain.

I think there are way too many variables to get reliable coverage rates. What is your goal?

It depends on what is underneath the Super Shene. I have used both alcohol and De-glazer, but I would try a test piece first. Have you tried to just buff off the loose Super Shene?

I've had these coasters in my WIP drawer for over a year. I just stumbled into this sub-forum the other day and was motivated to finish them up. Hops and Grapes seem to be appropriate patterns for coasters in my circle.

Good recovery! Ditto above. I usually clean up the stitch area with some denatured alcohol or DeGlazer.

Too wet.

I have used the AEROSOL Super Shene (several coats) to prevent lifting off. After sealing with Super, you can use a coat of Satin Sheen to reduced the glare. Post a picture; it sounds like you have a neat looking project.

You can make your own by mixing 5 parts Tandy Cova Color to 1 part Super Shene. I haven't been using Edge Coat for most projects. Burnishing the dyed edges seems to do as well.

In my brief experience, this stuff takes forever to dry. Maybe some heat?? say from a hair dryer on low? Did you call your Tandy store?

Ditto! Begin the cuts with swivel knife. This made a huge improvement for me.

Greetings and welcome from a fellow Zonie. That is a pretty cool holster. I've been wanting to make one like that for my Glock. I think it is #14 on my project list. As you have figured out, there is plenty of info on this site. Enjoy!

If you still have that Super Sheen, try two coats of Super, then a final coat of Satin Sheen to bring down the gloss.

Do you have pictures of what you are looking for?

As a fisherman, I prefer to have my entire reel covered, including the handle. That is probably why I am still using commercially made covers. If I ever get that far down my project list, I think I would go with lighter leather to reduce the bulk and figure out a way to cover the handle, too. I like your overall design; The main idea with reel covers is to keep the dirt and grime out of the mechanism and protect the reel from getting banged around during transport. You have succeeded! You don't want the cover to be too well sealed. that would retain moisture from the reel, line, etc.=bad thing. I like Saddle-Lac, durable and relatively water resistant.

I found some stuff called Elmer's Sticky Out at Office Max. Takes off masking & clear tape residue quite well from wood surface. I would definitely try it on the backside first to make sure it doesn't eat the finish. Also I've had some sucess with WD 40.

It sounds like you are on the right track. When you go beyond small projects you will need an overstitch wheel. I like the one with 3 different size wheels. The book will explain most everything. I started out by sewing scraps together for practice. Have fun!

"The Art and Craft of Leather" published by Barron's shows this stitch. It is similar to the Applique Lacing stitch in the Tandy book.

There is a really good thread in the "Stamping" forum that helped me alot. Several different techniques to try.

It is not always practical, but I use Deglazer to clean up the stitching when I can.