Knife Knut

I did not forget about your question. I have given it much thought I am but an acolyte compared to some of the masters, but here are some of my thoughts on the subject. Judging from the thickness and toughness of the veg tan 8 oz water buffalo hide I got, and the often changing directions in cutting of leather, I suspect edge misalignment is a large part of dulling of leatherworking knives. In my understanding, The rougher the steel, the more serrated the reallinged edge. An agressively striated steel used with some pressure will also remove steel like a file, as will an older worn steel to a lesser extent, in my experience. One must be carefull that the knife is softer than the realignment steel, or you end up serrating your steel! This happened to me when I was using an old hickory icepick as a stand in for a slick, but found that some blades were roughening its surface. Since it is 1095, easy to heat treat, and I have some extras (I bought a bunch since these things are very good quality and versatile) I may try hardening it. I have been unable to inexpensively source, though I have not looked hard, for a glass rod to try using as mentioned in the bladeforums post. While thinking on this subject it has occurred to me that using plate glass as a "hone" could achieve edge reallingment (misalingment of the edge is one of the known mechanisms of dulling) without removing material. Another (crazier) thought I had was procuring a boule of synthetic ruby (very hard stuff) and getting it polished to use as a slick. Much easier to get ahold of might be a polished rod of carbide, which would be the most wear resistant material for a edge realingment rod. Stropping realigns the edge, possibly removes a small amount of metal, and does remove a little bit more metal if a stropping compound is used. Frankly I don't know enough about, nor have enough experience with leather as yet to say what an optimal edge for various leather cutting knives is. I can say however, it is a uinversal truth in cutting edges that a polished, nonmicroserrated edge is best for pure pushcutting on materials that do not aproach the hardness of the cutting blade (like cutting stone as opposed to leather or wood). The one video I have seen on TV (I am on dialup, so no online video on my own computer) of cutting leather pattern out with a half moon type knife, it appeard to be more of a slicing cut, which a serrated edge tends to be better at. Then there is the whole subject of microstructure in steels and the microserrations that the carbides particles form in various alloys of steel. A huge subject in itself that I am still learning about.

Well darn, the time window for editing closed, I will have to finish this up elsewhere. Will post the final results.

Is there anyway to work around this? I am working on a rather long post All About Cutlers Resin

Since I do not have a website going yet, and this is currently the forum I am spending the most time on, this will be the repository of my research on this elusive adhesive, since it is on topic for this subforum. In my research I was unable to find a single comprehensive source on the subject, thus my creation of this treatise. Some formulations use materials we are already familiar with (Rosin for hand stitching), rosin, and beeswax. My original reason for researching it is that I would like to attatch a spearhead to its shaft, and my research showed that cutlers resin was used both historically and in the present to good effect for this purpose. What is it?: Cutler's resin is an primitive hot melt adhesive for attatching handles to the tangs of knife blades. It can be melted and poured into a hollowed handle and the tang inserted, or be used to attatch scales or broad, thin pieces of handle material to wider tangs. The Old Recipies: I have found There is much conjecture and error in current sources compared with old sources, which is one of the reasons for my search for multiple older sources. At this time, all of my older sources come from Google Books. Apparently reciepts has been replaced by the word recipie in modern word usage. Redundant recipies will not be posted from multiple older sources ( they are often repeated from source to source), as I will link to the sources, and so the sources listed are by no means exaustive. Text will copied and pasted as these references have passed into public domain. Wrinkles and recipes: compiled from the Scientific American. A collection of ... edited by Park Benjamin http://books.google....as_maxy_is=1860 Cutlers': (1) Pitch 4 parts, resin 4, tallow2, and brick-dust 2. (2) Resin 4, beeswax 1, brickdust 1. (3) Resin 16, hot whiting 1, wax 1. This is used for fastening blades in handles Chambers' encyclopædia: A dictionary of universal knowledge, Volume 3 By William Chambers, Robert Chambers http://books.google....20resin&f=false Cutlers' Cement, used for fixing knives and forks in handles, is made of equal weights of resin and brick-dust melted together; or, for a superior quality, 4 parts of resin, 1 of beeswax, and 1 of brick-dust. The Working man's friend, and family instructor, Volumes 1-2 http://books.google....20resin&f=false Cutlers' Cement, to fix knives and forks In tlieir handles. Black rosin, four ounces; beeswax, one ounce ; well-dried and finely-powdered brick dust, one ounce. Melt, and blend the ingredients intimately, and use in a liquid state. Thia will be found useful in families, as many, even of the best knives and forks aie not rivited into the handles. At. the same time, persons ihould avoid plunging- the handles into hot water, or exposing them to heat. Workshop Receipts: for manufacturers and scientific amateurs, Volume 1 http://books.google....AAJ&output=text Cutlers'.—This is the name given to various kinds of cement used for fastening knives, etc., in their handles. (1) A very firm cement is made of 4 parts resin, 1 of beeswax, into which, when melted, 1 part of fine brickdust is stirred. It adheres with great firmness. (2) Take powdered resin, and mix with it a small quantity of powdered chalk, whiting, or slaked lime, Fill the hole in the handle with the mixture, heat the tang of the knife or fork, and thrust in. When cold, it will be securely fastened. (3) Take 1 lb. resin and 8 oz. sulphur, melt together, form into bars, or when cold reduce to powder ; 1 part of the powder is to be mixed with 1/2 part of iron filings, brickdust or fine sand ; fill the cavity of the handle with the mixture, and insert the tang, previously heated. (4) Pitch, 4 parts ; resin, 4 ; tallow, 2 ; brickdust, 2. Melt the first three ingredients, and add the brickdust hot and finely powdered. (5) Chopped hair, flax, hemp or tow. mixed with powdered resin and applied as above. (6) 16 oz. rosin, 16 oz. hot whiting, 1 oz. wax. (7) 5 parts pitch, 1 wood-ashes, 1 hard tallow, melted together. (8) 4 lb. black rosin melted with 1 lb. beeswax, and 1 lb. red hot whiting added. (9) 16 oz. rosin, 8 oz. sulphur ; melt, and when cool reduce to powder. Mix with this some fine sand or brickdust, and use as stated. (10) Take a portion of a quill, put it into the handle, warm the tang, and insert it into the quill in the handle and press it firmly. This is a simple method, and answers the purpose required very well. New Recipies Here are contemporary recipies that are not from primary sources. Cutler's resin- any recipes? http://forums.dfoggk...?showtopic=1403 5 parts pitch 1 part beeswax (tallow can replace this-available from your butcher) 1 part filler (wood dust, ash, metal dust, etc) http://www.marquis-k...u/mt/000646.htm 8 oz pine pitch, 1/4 cup carnauba wax and 4 oz of beeswax, Making Pitch Pine glue or cutlers resin... 5 oz Pitch pine resin 1 oz beeswax 1/4 oz carnuba 1 oz powdered charcoal poured it onto a sheet of baking paper and let it just spread out under gravity. I kept an eye on it, and as it started to cool to the texture of putty, I rolled it up into cigars Pine pitch is the key http://www.bladeforu...046&postcount=5 1/2 lb of pine pitch 1/4 lb of beeswax 1/4 cup of flaked carnauba wax Glue Recipies http://www.knives.co...pies_glues.html Cutlers Cement Pine Resin, 8 parts Sulphur, 2 parts Iron filings, 3 parts Cutlers Cement Tar, 10 parts Wood Ash, 2 part Tallow, 1 part Cutlers Cement Pine Resin, 4 parts Bees Wax, 1 part http://www.janellest...l/adhesives.txt 8 oz pine pitch, 1/4 cup Carnauba wax 4 oz beeswax I just ran up to the shop and tested - with my marking knife attached to a ceiling clamp by the blade, I was able to hang from the handle with no ill effects to the joint. Pine Resin and Charcoal Glue Recipe i use an empty minwax 1\2 pint can. i fill the can about half way with pine resin roughly 1- 1.5 tablespoons of wood ashes roughly 1- 1.5 tablespoons of bear grease that has been thickened with wax (my bear grease is thickened to consistency of crisco vegtable shortening or a creamy peanut butter) What I use is about equal parts pitch, bees wax and charcoal powder or fine saw dust. Cutler's resin by Chuck Burrows, a knifemaker of stout repute: 5 parts pitch 1 part beeswax (tallow can replace this-available from your butcher) 1 part filler (wood dust, ash, metal dust, etc) well I quit for tonight, gettinng dopy, still a lot to do: more contemproarey revipiex Ingredients description proceses for micxing.

What alloy and heat treat are you using?

Any Luck? There are clamps specifically for this sort of thing, and I have seen pictures of these before; however the name completely escapes me at the moment. I know this is not very helpful, butJust saying so that you know that your quest is not completely futile. Have you considered a 2x4 attatched to the bottom of the rack?

Sounds like the Osbornes are using substandard steel and/or heat treat. Thanks for the heads up!

I know this is a little late, but I have some input. I am with celtic leather on this one. Now if you could find one of the elusive, near mythical butcher's slicks, which are perfectly smooth, then you would be on to something. See http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7141132 for further discussion.

I bought a "leather" dress belt once. The :censored2:thing delaminated!

Keep in mind you are probably leaving grit from the belt embedded in the surface of the board. All those hungry little abrasive particles just waiting to eat your beautifully sharpened edge. Might a plane or jointer do the trick?

I cannot be sure from the pictures (need closer ones of the working end), but judging from the grind shape of the "fingertips" I would guess is a tool for cutting circles through or on the surfaces of harder materials like wood or soft metal. Another thought I had was a tool for making washers.

Just throwing this out there as a possibility: What about one of those sweater shaver things? Or, maybe a blowtorch set on low flame to scorch the fuzzies off, sort of like scorching off pinfeathers.

Solid Copper Binding Posts http://www.fastenal.com/catalog_pages/2007/3-339.pdf These came to mind as soon as I saw the subject line. This source Only place I have ever seen these oddballs, but I have never run a search for them either. Some binding posts seem to be pretty much the same thing as chicago screws.

I wonder how well these wet form techniques would work on steel toe boots. Edit: Actually I would be worried the steel toes would rust, but the newfangled composite toe caps wouldnt have that problem

Ok now I feel kinda dumb. After some more research on stitching horses, I have found that this actually is built pretty closely to the one shown on pg 98 of oft quoted "Farm Woodwork" book (can be found at http://www.archive.org/details/farmwoodwork00roehgoog ). A search on this forum will turn up other pictures of ones they have built. The main difference D. A. Kabatoff's version is in s the use of spindles and wood swivel joints instead of brackets. Perhaps the builder had access to these plans (the dating works out since the book was originally published in 1919), but added his own special touches. I personally find the version to be depicted here to be more elegant and have a higher degree of craftmanship that is needed to make the swivel parts from wood rather than metal.

Ok since he didn't post pictures let me describe what you are wondering about (I can build things in my head, so I can describe to you what you are not able to see in the picture). Perhaps he will see this bump to the top and post the requested picture. Whatever. At the moving arm the strap is tacked in place. The strap then goes through the slot in the moving arm, and goes down to a slot in the stationary arm. The slot in the stationary arm is closer to the base than the slot in the moving arm; this can be better seen in the picture barra gives us. From the slot in the stationary arm the strap goes through the baseplate, and is secured to the middle of the foot lever (this is mostly obscured by the vertical leg). The foot pedal pivots at one end in the large dowel/spindle crosspiece; note the slot it pivots in in the square part of the spindle . The large crosspiece/splindle is also able to pivot in the vertical legs that hold it; note the hole going throught the vertical leg that holds it, and the spindle below it that serves as the actual structural member. These pivots allow the end of the pedal to move about in two dimensions (up/down left/right) Near the foot end of the pedal there is a metal plate. The metal plate is able to engage the notched metal plate on the vertical leg in order to lock in place various thicknesses of work in the jaws against the tension of the strap, so that constant pressure need not be applied by the user to the lever. So did I make things any clearer? Also, my first post to this forum.