horsewreck

If you have trouble getting into that site google, Prestige Trekker RR Saddle, and let me Know if that's what you have. I could not get a look at what you sent me as it wouldn't open for some reason..... Jeff

Is there any other markings on the saddle? Does the logo have a State, and or City named? I will keep researching R's back to back, but I have not seen that as a logo before, as best I can recall. Is this a saddle you bought, or are looking at to buy? It might be from some very small maker. I am pretty sure it has no connection to Rocking R Saddlery of Alabama....... Jeff

Thanks for the info.. I went to the rocking R web site but as far as I can see their logo is a rocking R. I have had their saddles in my shop and as I said above they make a decent saddle. My concern was and still is, a cheap import that as far as I have heard is marketing stuff under the name R R and or R R R. If a saddle says it is made in Alabama or somewhere else in the states then it is an American saddle, But some of the junk coming in might have a name stamped on it but not a point of origin. I would in no way seek to impune a established U S saddle co. my only intent was to let folks know to be careful, as a fulltime shop owner for many years I have seen to many honest people over charged for a low quality product. Thanks again... Jeff

I case leather if I am going to mold it, or stamp it or both. I wet the leather well, shake off any excess water, and put it in a plastic bag. I keep quite a few sizes of bags from freezer to garbage bags. I case most saddle parts overnight. I use straight water and don't add anything to it. On pieces of work that might take me a long time to finish I will mist, then return them to their bags and put them in the Frig. (not the freezer). I have had damp cased leather held this way for many days while I was trying to do other things. Keeping it cool prevents mold growing on the leather. I pull it out set it on the bench till it gets to the right moisture content, then I go to work. Saddle pieces like fork covers might be cased, shaped, put on the saddle allowed to dry then dampened to say stamp on it then allow to dry out again when I'm done. As far as slicking leather that's not going to be molded to shape, or tooled in some way I will dampen it let it sit until it is just about to start returning to normal color then I slick. If I want to slick both sides I dampen both sides wait, slick the flesh flip it over and slick the front. I don't case but do slick things like plain strap goods .I hope this is of some help. There are as many ways to do these things as there are people doing them.....

Welcome to the resource you will be happy you found. It is for leather people and about all things leather. Look around and find your place. Enjoy!

As far as I know the most well known company going by the name Rocking R Saddlery is building saddles in Alabama. However the only reference to R&R saddles I know of is a line of youth saddles being imported from China..... I think you could be dealing with two very different companys here, as Rocking R I hear sells a decent American made product. That being said R&R might be one of those companys selling very marginal quality saddles at best..... Be careful as we are seeing a new generation of junk imports that are sold as western saddles that won't fit horse or rider, and are made with vinyl seats, very odd leather, and other dubious materials. I hope this has been of some help.

Knut, thanks for staying away from the water trough issue!!! Jeff

From a "what works best on a horse" standpoint go with a good center ring breast collar. Better yet make up a good pulling collar with the tugs going around the fork, this has become my favorite design. In order of what works best and what sells the best, I'd say it's #1 pulling, #2 center ring breast collar, #3 tripping collar. I admit as far as room to decorate goes, they would be placed in reverse order. I have built a few trippers but I don't like them......

Is this saddle going to be ridden by a child, a small adult, and how much to long are the stirrups? Is the saddle tooled or stamped, is it slickout or roughout, are the fenders lined. What is the age and value of the saddle. Is this a bench made saddle or is it mass produced. If this is to be used by a child, will they want to ride it when they have grown. Please pull the fenders up all the way, and punch any holes needed to adjust the stirrups all the way up, then report back as to how much they are still to long. These are some of the questions that need to be answered before moving foward.

Based on what I can see(I can't get pics. to enlarge or see captions) It appears to be a mass produced, Mexico made "roping" saddle. That said these saddles weren't made to take a lot of heavy use. The trees tend to be covered with light rawhide that is not sealed, the thread used to sew the rawhide often rots in humid areas of the country. Long story short I think Frank got it right in his reply to you. I have seen more of these saddles than many saddle shops because in my early years in repair I was near the border with Mexico. I have also seen these saddle trees covered in canvas, thin fiber glass like resin and have even seen bare wood.....

Monica, I'm glad you found your 1.75" buckle.. I have found over the years a great buckle to use on the 1.75" carry belts is a roller buckle designed for flank cinches on saddles. My gun toters like them as well. Roller buckles don't scar up the leather like some round ended buckles, and they can be pulled up snug without much effort. Look at something like the Horse Shoe Brand Buckles, on the Weaver site. I use the#04072 buckle on most of those big belts, but the #04070 is good if they want a little of a western look. These only come in Stainless but they work great....

Charlie, are the fenders to long even when adjusted up, and hole punched as short as they will go, is that what you are saying?.....

Carl, you forgot to mention to the nice lady that we club the baby elephants to death so we don't have any bullet holes in the hides..... Ditto on Monica's work..... Jeff

Great first effort, I like the overall design and you bring new meaning to the term destressed leather. Noahl made a good point about reinforcing the belt slot. As far as putting your stamp on the front I think it works well on this design, however you said the back was to molded to have a place to put it. It has been my experience that if I mold the back of some of these styles to the same degree as the front, the comfort level of the wearer goes down. Just a thought. But overall I give thumbs up........

It appears to be a mass produced saddle, the letters that are stamped on the skirt and latigo carrier are after market. To determine if if is mexican look at the stirrup roller where the stirrups hang on the fenders, if it is made of wood (dowel rod) it is mexican. On the stirrup buckle slides if it doesn't say blevin or something but is blank,it is mexican. Let me know what you find and I'll be glad to help you along.

What I mean by case leather overnight is, wet the leather put the wet leather in a zip-lock bag, let it sit in the bag overnight (the gun is not in the leather), next day take the leather out and let it start to dry. When the leather starts to turn back to it's normal color, put the sandwich wrapped gun in the holster and shape(bone), gentley remove gun and let the holster dry out then check your fit... I hope this is of some help.... sorry I forget to check this topic for several days.......

Johanna, Thanks for not posting stuff from those misguided folks... Jeff

Thanks Keith, I'm glad were on the same page on this subject... Jeff

You ought to try being mayor of your town and see the reaction of people when they find out you live with a 357mag. snubbie. Most people think it's pretty cool. I prefer concealed carry........