horsewreck

As Keith suggested you might consider changing to a plate rigging, but you might try this first. If the stirrup leather passes through the ring you might be able to pull them out of the rings and have them come over the top of the rings thus freeing them up ( it works on some saddles but not so well on others). Secondly when you saddle your horse, pass the draw latigo for the front cinch through the cinch then once through the saddle ring, then a second time through the cinch ring and use the cinch tongue to latch the latigo. Don't keep passing the latigo through the rings, as two passes at the bottom and one at the top will work fine, and it helps keep the bulk down. Do not use that big Knot at the saddle ring as it is of no value and only causes more bulk under your leg, the cinch tongue will hold things snug. Try these things first and if you aren't happy with the ride then consider a plate rigging...... Jeff

In our shop we have a short list of names taped to the the back side of the counter where no customer can see, we call it the PIA list, which is short for for Pain In the Ass. When a person makes the list we no longer do any work for them. We always have a very good reason for not being able to do their job without telling them they are a PIA. On the front side of the counter is a well made sign that says, "My customers are a necessity not an Inconvenience". When I have one of those PIAs come into our shop and they start pushing my buttons I feel like I should change the sign to, "Some of my customers are a necessity and some are just a inconvenience"..... Jeff

WOW. The most beautiful face I have ever seen put to leather.. Words cannot describe, this is a work of high art.. STUNNING!

I use 3/4 & 1" stainless smooth nails, but I don't care for ring shanks. I like and use a lot of 3penny galvanized nails as they hold well but can be pulled later for repairs, they are just over 1" long and you can get them at a good lumber yard ........ Jeff

I don't know if there is one on this site but but the Jan/Feb. 2004 issue of The leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal, has just what you are looking for. Back issues and reprints are available. 1-888-289-6409

I think in vol. #1 the authors explain that in order to not be repeating the same topics over and over they would instead refer you to the one area that explains staps, handles, belt loops, and so on. It is in my view a very good set of books because they does not cover the same material over and over...... Jeff

Your work shows you have a good eye for detail and design. Keep up the good work, the credit goes to you for your efforts....... Jeff

WELCOME, to the site, being into western riding I am sure you can gain a lot of information on building and repairing your western tack. Enjoy......... Jeff

If you are on a budget you might try the Osborne #CSO44-2 which I use for a lot of hand sewing. If you are real pickie you can buy a slightly larger one like the CSO45 and dress it down on you sharpening stone. The best stitching awls are the ones that you have made a million holes with. By that I mean they get better with use and are alway at there best right before they break. I recently broke an old awl point I had used for years, it was a sad moment when I had to toss it and start useing a new one in my favorite handle...... Jeff

Real nice work and the color is great. I can't wait to see the next one. The problem with cases is we end up with a closet full of them because with each one we make, we learn something we would like to change on the next one. I agree with you less is more in leather cases. Thanks so much for showing us your great new case...... Jeff

You might want to get your hands on volume one of Al Stohlman's books on saddle making. He does a real good job of teaching how to get the different rigging in right, well worth the money...... Jeff

If your goal is a trail saddle that you can ride long hours, select a saddlemaker who builds mostly for ranchers and working cowboys. These guys are the people who spend the most time in the saddle and only buy from builders who know how to build in "all day comfort". Stay away from arena saddles built mostly for team and calf ropers as they aren't designed for all day use. Like JW pointed out a lot of saddle selection is what looks good to you, a good maker can build on any style of well made tree regardless of fork design and still turn out a saddle you will want to crawl into...... Jeff

Very "precise" and well designed. The clean lines of your leather work fit so great with the very angular Buster Welch tree. It's just a wonderful example of what a cutter saddle should be...... Jeff

Looks real nice, kind of has an old school feel to it, but in a good way. Does the design carry well, is it comfortable?...... Jeff

Steve, thanks for posting the "ask Verlane" information she was and still is such an asset to the leather world. Good luck in your new location, we know this past year has been rough on you and your family. Hang in there..... Jeff

Welcome to the site, I think there is a lot to see and do here. I too am one of those guys who like simple functional leather objects be it wallet or saddle. That said these artists among us will inspire us minimals to dress our work up with a few do-dads. Enjoy the site and welcome aboard...... Jeff

Are we talking about a saddle you are building or are we talking about a saddle you own? The only time I have seen tree nails "telegraphing" through leather on the cantle backs or swell covers are on low end mass produced saddles. This is for the most part caused by the use of very the thin leather used to cover these areas in a hurry at the factory. If this is the type of saddle we are talking about I would say there is not much you can do short of replacing the leather, if this is a saddle you are making then use one of the methods described above. Hope this helps..... Jeff

I think you would be better off to make a belt that is doubled and stitched all the way around, or a real thick single layer belt. I don't get the point of only doubling the part that the holster sits on..... Jeff

Good job, most folks first attempt at a saddle is a plain affair, but you went for a more upscale look which I think is great. I can't wait to see #2 and #3. I think we will see some real deal saddles come from you.... Jeff

I have used the horse butts in the past for holster and small case work. I like the leather real well though I'm not crazy about it's natural color. It seems to be a very tight close fiber leather, and is a little harder to case. I bag it for a full day before I try to form it. On the first projects I would suggest starting off with the soft rolled butts of the light weight (5 to 7oz.), not the hard rolled heavy weight stuff. I have not stamped it much but have found it easy to work after a few practice pieces. It's good leather but takes a little getting used to, it is a little tougher to mold but it holds shape and detail real well. It is easy to over oil horse butt. Everyone that makes small cases or holsters should try it at least once.... Jeff

I have not used that sysyem but have read about it. Most wood tree makers of all stripes, big and small will work with you to get the right tree under your saddle. That said, I think too much has been blabbed about fit with some tree guys acting like they are the first one on earth to tackle the issue. I do not know of a serious tree maker who doesn't care about keeping the horse comfortable and sound as possible! When it comes to fitting a tree to a horse we must consider that a horse has a different "back " on him in January when he is turned out than he does in August after being ridden most of the summer. If you find a real good horse that you hang on to a lot of years that horse will have a different back on him than when he was younger. For that matter on a hard days ride any horse will have a changed back from carrying the weight and fluid lose during the day. So do we fit the saddle to the fat horse or the same horse thinner, do we change saddles every few years as our horses age, do we have a morning saddle and an after noon saddle?? Of course not, that is why I like most saddlers build on trees designed to to fit a general body type, not a particular horse as he was at one moment in his life. As it has been said, if you build a saddle that will only fit one horse, when he dies you should bury the saddle with him. Just my thoughts.... Jeff

Welcome to the site. I looked at your work, I think you show real promise. I'm looking foward to seeing that triple gusseted case when done, mastering hand sewing as you know is basic to our craft. I'm amazed at how much hand sewing I still do after owning several machines...... Jeff

Ty, Your a man after my own heart, a good round skirted, well done saddle that can be worked in. I like the skirt rig with a slight drop to the front rigging dee. Good looking all the way around.... Jeff