TomG

Is it possible to braid 4 strands using trhe mystery braid technique? If so, can you point me to a tutorial on it? I found the 3 strand and a 5 strand tutorial, but not a 4. Tom

Thanks. On this particular band, the stamping is so close to the edge, a stitch groover would cut too much of the design, which the lady didn't want. I remade the entire thing and used contact cement to secure everything. Then burnished the edges together and so on. I do have a couple smaller machines in the garage. I' need to dig them out and see if any of them are capable of doing this weight leather. Later. Tom

I meant to ask you a few of questions: 1) What is the biggest thread you can sew with. 2) What is the thickest leather you've sewn? 3) Do you have a clutch motor or have you gone to the serve? Thanks Tom

Don't think I can justify a new machine to my wife, since we use it seldomly. Since this is a walking foot machine, how does a roller foot feed the leather? As for the speed, I press the foot pedal to just engage the clutch lightly, and turn the wheel by hand and gentle add speed with the pedal. Occasionally, it will get away from me for a second, but I'm usually using it to sew folding chairbacks together after embroidering them, so a little high speed doesn't hurt. But small work on leather is a whole new ballgame <G> Tom

I think it's a 20 or 22.. Don't remember. But it is not a leather needle. The only leather needle I have right now is a 23. It's huge for this band I'm attaching some photos. Thanks Tom

I recently made a 1/2" wide watch band and when I tried to sew it, I screwed it up. I could not keep the needle in a straight line. And when I made the turn at the top and bottom, it pulled in the corners. they were not square. I have a Singer 111W155. It is set to sew garments (saving up for a servo motor) but I know how to slow it donw and sew slow with what is in it. I used #69 thread top and bottom. Does anyone have any tips for sewing these small items straight? Anyone ever make their own guide for a machine like this? Tom

OK, I'm "relatively" new to all of this, but in browsing some on-line catalogs, I found a BK 5 POUND maul!! Thats' not a maul.. it's a sledge hammer <g>.... What would you ever use that for???? Even with 1/4" leather, I can put an end strap cutter through in 1, maybe 2 smacks.... Tom

Well, I sort of THINK I see some roughish spots. But I don't see any ridges or rolls.. Nor can I feel them. I'll keep stropping for a while and see if it helps. Which side is best to use with the rouge? Flesh or grain side of the leather? Also, when should I add more rouge? As I strop, the surface of the leather/rouge turns black. Is this OK? Tom

I have 3 swivel knives that I have picked up with used tool purchases at various times. 2 are standard handles with the larger blades and the 3rd is an adjustable with a smaller angle blade. I have stropped the fire out of them and they have mirror-like faces. One of the standard blades cuts like it's going through butter. The other 2 (standard and angle) feel like they are sort of dragging. --- as if the leather was too dry. But I don't think it is since the 1st knife cuts so smoothly. They just feel rough as they cut. I have examined them and the only difference I can see is that the smooth cutting blade has a bit of a steeper pitch to it, ie, it has a longer face, than the other 2. I wouldn't think that it would make a difference this way, but what else could cause it to cut rough? Thanks Tom

I picked these up and have no use for them. One is marked 54 and one marked 57. One has a square tip. The black one has a tip that may be damaged, but if so, would be repairable with a grinder. I'm just not sure what it's supposed to look like. I think there are about 6 or 7 in total. The punch is about 1/4" and is actually a light metal punch from 1922. Works well on leather. I do not know what they are worth, so if you want them, please make me an honest offer. I'll send better pictures if you are interested. I figure about $5-$6 for S&H Tom

I know this is an old thread, but never did see it answered clearly. The spiral cut answer is close. If you take a side/hide and round the "corners" you can start at a corner and cut all the way around the side almost as many times as you need to get a continuous strip. You then can straighten it. Good luck Tom

I'm working towards making a rawhide maul, but right now am just fooling around with the rawhide. The dog chew is cheap stuff for sure. Very rough and uneven. It looks like it will only be good for roughing in an idea here and there. Tom

I agree. They are not even close to what I've seen at Tandy. I just don't like messing up perfectly good leather to experiment and learn OF a cheap substitute will do. For example, I would probably not do a lot of dying and staining practice on anything other than the hide I was going to use in production. As for Tandy, our local store doesn't have a scrap bin that I am aware of. They do have some scraps they sell but I think they charge around $10 a pound or so. And I have never seen rawhide in there. And we never give our dogs rawhide either. I've seen too many dog wind up in surgery or dead Later Tom

WOW! Thank you so much for that in-depth look. More answer than I ever expected! As for a slipping grip, it would look ugly, but if you want a sure-grip solution, you could take tennis racket replacement grips and wrap the hamdle with that. The only way you would ever lose your grip is if you let go. They are very tacky and meant to get tackier with sweat.... Most have an adhesive that will stick to the handle. The overgrips will be tacky but don't have the adhesive. Thanks again for the great tutorial Tom

I don't think I've ever seen a rawhide maul at a flea market. But I'll be keeping my eyes peeled <g>

I am playing with some rawhide dog bones. I took a small one and soaked it overnight, Once soft, I unrolled it, flattened it and rerolled it into a mini mallet head shape. It's not tightly rolled enough to be usable, even if it were the right size, but I wanted to see what it would do. Looking at my mallet, I'm not sure how I would wind it as tight as they have it. I have never worked with rawhide and have since found out I should have cased it like veg tan. Maybe that would have let me wind it tighter.... Someone told me that the dog chews are not good quality rawhide. And the ones I saw at the store had been bleached. But Tandy also carries bleached rawhide, so I don't know how itmakes a difference. And I wouldn't know how to tell quality rawhide from junk. So, for $3 - $6, depending on size, you could try it out and see. Tom

I have a few questions on working rawhide. As in - I know nothing about it and want to learn. I am considering making a rawhide maul for fun and experience. Tandy has some small rolls of it that I will probably use. I guess my plan is to cut a bunch of circles and then stack them together with a bolt through them and a wooden handle, The rawhide is a roll and is hard. So I assume I have to soak it. How long? Overnight? My plan is to get it soft, lay it out flat and let it dry flat under some type of panel or weight. Then cut it u with a circle cutter, wet them to re-soften, stack between a couple of plates with a bolt to tighten. Does this sound right so far? Do I need to use some sort of adhesive on them as well? How would this work on wet rawhide? Thanks in advance. Tom

Have you tried wrapping the wooden maul with a strip or 2 of rawhide? I am currently researching how to make a rawhode maul myself. Now I'm sorry I traded my wood lathe <g> Tom

Well, it softened up enough overnight so it is pliable. I'll let you knwo how the little project turns out.

Here's a strange one for you. I need some small pieces of rawhide to experiment with and have never used it. So, I had a brainstorm. Why not use some of those rawhide dog bone chew toys. I got a small one and put it in a glass of water. After about 2 hours, it;'s still pretty hard. How long does it take to soften? Or do they coat it with something? Tom

Besides, I promised my wife - No more esterfication in public..... It embarasses her Tom

Wow Art. Thanks for the info. I would never try to make my own. It's not that expensive. And I remember enough Of chemistry to know better. Vinegar and baking soda comes to mind. As does never put water on or in acid. Put acid in water Tom

I went back and read the whole thing and don't see anything to indicate why that range. And Fiebing's site only shows a #12 Deglazer. MAybe they had different strengths at one time or other??? Who knows.... Tom

Or 80%, deending on how you look at it.......

Well, I answered my own question <g>.... From Fiebings MSDS sheet: Ingredients (Specific) % Ethyl Acetate 70 - 90 % Ethyl Alcohol 10 - 30 % Tom