woodandsteel

Yeah, that's a great design solution!

Thanks, Big O!

I agree with everything that Particle and Big O said. You might also find you need more space between the gun and the belt slots, by the time it's molded to the gun. You also will probably need the slots to be wider and longer than expected. A third thing I'd recommend, but it's purely a preference matter, is to not have it extend so high up the slide in the front, to make for an easier draw, and possibly more comfortable fit on the belt. I only suggest these from my own mistakes.

Eco flo is waterbased, so it will tend to bleed. You could try a spray-on finish, instead of daubing, and use several light coats to avoid smearing the color.

It's been a while since I've posted anything, and my results have been steadily improving, thanks to all that I've learned here. Here are four IWB holsters I made recently. Two are for a Government length 1911. One of them has lizard skin trim. The light brown one turned out splotchy for some reason, due to the boning/molding process. I used a vacuum bag to do the initial forming, pressing with my fingers through the bag, and then with bone folder for details. I haven't had that problem before or since. The other two holsters are an adjustable IWB design that I made for a Colt Defender and a Smith & Wesson M&P40. The snap loops are screwed into T-nuts, which can be moved to change the cant and ride height. I used 7/8oz leather from RJF leather, Fiebings Oil dye, saddle stitched, finished with Resolene and then a coat of Sno-Seal. I mostly used Hidepounder's edge burnishing method, but I'm getting inconsistent results, with the dye rubbing off during the final burnishing. On the last holster I dyed the edges after sanding and burnishing, then used glycerin soap, saddle soap, and paraffin wax. On the last holster, I also forgot the coat of neatsfoot oil after molding and before using the resolene, so it ended up a bit splotchy. I was in a rush...lesson learned!

Thanks! My gut tells me the same thing.

I have the opportunity to put some holsters in a local Gun retailer, and I'm wondering the best way to proceed. Does anyone else have experience with this? Do you sell them to the retailer at a discount rate, or sell on consignment? What kind of percentage split do you do?

I started the same way. I switched to saddle stitching using a diamond shaped stitching awl, and make the holes as I'm stitching, rather than before. This way I can groove the front and the back ahead of time, and guide the awl blade to come out through the groove on the back as I'm stitching. It makes for a cleaner look. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12259

Li'l help?

I'm making my first attempt at using exotic leathers. I think what I'm using is iguana, but I'm not sure (It was in a remnant bundle). The problem I'm having is that the scales are somewhat bony, and I can't cut a groove to keep my stitching straight. I stitched it free hand (saddle stitching), but it's a bit sloppy. What do you all do?

I like the seeder border stamp! I'm going to have to steal that.

I found the black Pull the Dot snaps at paragear.com. Their minimum is just $25.

I agree, it looks really great for your first project! The molding looks terrific. What kind of thread did you use?

'Simply gorgeous! I usually look at other holsters and think, "How can I make one better than that?". Eric, when I look at your holsters, I think, "I WANT one of those!"

A friend of mine told me he makes and sells a lot of steampunk stuff. His website is http://www.magnolialeatherworks.com , though it doesn't look like he has much on his site at the moment.

Looks great! Lately I've been really wanting one of those P345's, and have had a few people asking me to make holsters for theirs. I may just have to get one to use as a mold.

That's the way I've been doing it, too. I figured that attachment method out on my own, so I'm glad to see I'm doing it right! For an adjustable position strap, I'll use an 8-32 screw with the back of a chicago screw, so you can use different holes. Like this:

I found black ones at Paragear.com, and only had to buy $25 worth. The gentlemen at woolfegunleather.com also sells them individually, if you just need a few.

I've used 4/6oz for some IWB's in the past, and it definitely helps in keeping things slim, but will soften up over time, even after baking to harden it. Most of the time, that's not a problem for me, personally, but with bigger guns, I'd probably go with 7/8 or 8/9 oz.

I'm looking for the same snaps in government black. Dotfastenersdirect.com site is no longer up. Can the parts be interchanged between dot durable and pull the dot snaps? can i order a bunch of Durable dot snaps and just the female snap part for the Pull the Dot?

I had the same luck with a similar awl from Tandy. The blade pulled out of the handle the first time I used it. I glued it back in and sharpened the tip. The next time I used it the blade snapped off at the handle.

Nice! I'd been thinking of making something like this. Essentially a hybrid style holster, with all leather instead of kydex.

Very nice!! What weight leather did you use for these?

This is up to each person to decide for himself. It's pretty commonplace and "normal" these days in the U.S., particularly in more urban or college-town settings. Tattoos are even more common, in my experience. I've worn a small hoop earring in each ear for the last 15 years (I'm 33), but never got any tattoos.