BIGGUNDOCTOR

Well you have a few options here. I am a machinist / tool maker, so I have a little experience with this. First off wood won't mess up a metal late, so a shop shouldn't worry about that. My concern is the wall thickness of the finished piece, and warpage, cracking, or ovaling. Can a smaller , say .500" diameter shaft be installed, and just use a rolling pin? I would think that even a series of 1.00" rings would work, and have a away to true them up on the machine from time to time. This can be done on a drill press the same way a gun stock can be drilled. Put a point in the drill press table. and align it with your drill point. Mark the center of your part, and place it on the point. Then drill from the top. This can be done from both directions with a large enough point diameter to fill the hole. Of course you will also have to have a way to clamp the part securely so that it does not rotate. Once drilled, it could be turned between centers to the correct diameter. A drill press can be pressed into service as a wood late with a little work. On a lathe it can be done by holding it in the chuck, if the lathe has a large enough hole in the spindle to handle the diameter. Otherwise a steady rest will need to be used. A 6" long piece would be able to fit in most decent sized chucks without a steady. The chuck, and steady rest , will leave marks on the outside that will need to be removed after boring to size with a boring bar - which will be more accurate than a drill. A 4 jaw chuck would be able to handle a square piece in shorter sections, or a long piece with a cat's paw installed to allow the steady rest to be used. A suggestion would be to bore it a little oversize , gluing it onto the shaft, then doing the final truing up either on the machine itself, or putting the assembly on a lathe to do this operation. By gluing it up, it may stabilize the wood, and keep it from the above stated maladies.

Nothing to really take a picture of. The steer had been just killed by a van going the other direction, and in the dark I didn't see it till it was too late, as another cars headlights were blinding me. All I saw was a big black object across my lane. My truck is a 4x4 so it sits a little higher than a 2 wheel drive. It basically rolled the steer under the front end, and lifted the front end up. When I opened the door I saw the head by the front tire. After Metro showed up to take the report I backed off of it. The only damage to my truck was a bent center link causing a tight steering issue, but I was able to drive it the rest of the way home. No body damage other than a bent license plate. Yea, I wish I had thought about having them save the hide for me. Never saw a cow hide with hair that thick before. I knew they existed, but had never seen one up close, and personal.

I bought a storage locker at an auction years ago that had a bunch of purses in it. I pulled the hardware, and cut them up for future use. I hadn't thought about furniture, or jackets for material. The one that I wish I had thought about earlier was the 1,200# show steer I put under the front of my Dodge 1tton a couple of years ago. It had a beautiful solid black winter coat. I talked to the owner later, and he told me it just got buried with the rest after butchering that night.

What you might want to do is post how much the minimum quantity is to get this going. Are you talking about 100', 1,000', or 100,000'? When I have been involved with group buys the minimum was posted, so we knew what it would take to get the deal done.

Very rare to get snow here in Southern Nevada, but even where I work in Utah we haven't had any this year. Today it was in the 70's (F). As to rain, we only average 4-4.5" a year with most of that during the monsoons in July. One of the reasons I moved to the desert.

Who had the correct alien life form leather? Nice job.

Bay Area covers a lot of area. Where specifically are you? I used to have a machine shop in Cordelia , near Fairfield, where I did a lot of winery equipment repairs, and refurbishing. I think with some coaching , you can do this one yourself. The unit itself is very basic construction. I would look into hand polishing the roller, and shafts, then have the rest glass bead blasted to remove the rust. After that, some paint to keep the parts from rusting again in your humid air, and you are good to go. If I was still in Fairfield I would help ya out, or if ya want to visit fabulous Las Vegas NV, I can meet ya there =)

What does a bag punch look like?

It looks similar to a head that I was offered for $25, but passed on. Not having reverse kinda ended it for me. I see lots of industrial machines on Craigslist. Found 2 Adler patchers on there so far.

If you can't have a hole completely through the item, take something like the handle used for 3-D stamps, or whatever caliber you want, and use that to do the hole. Then bevel down to the depth of the flattened area in a smooth radius, rough edged, or whatever look you want to portray.. Where I see a problem is getting it to stand out as a hole, and not just a decorative design. Like Dwight showed, a real bullet hole has a darker ring which is caused by lead ,or bullet lube, rubbing off onto the item shot. As the bullet pierces the item it curves in before opening up. On soft targets like paper, or leather the sides will spring back after the bullet passes through. That is for standard shaped bullets. Wadcutters, bullets that have a flat nose, and are used in target shooting, will actually punch a hole like a hole punch. To get this to show up as a bullet hole I feel that you will need to highlight it in some fashion.

I have a friend who sell a lot of the jewelery she makes on Facebook . A huge percentage of the population is on Facebook, so it is an easy way for her to get the word out for new items that she has made, or what shows she will be at, and where.

Lots of tanning info on Taxidermy.net.

Well considering that I live about 60 miles from the Strip in Fabulous Las Vegas Nevada, I will be there this NYE. Did the Strip last year, have done house parties in the past, so not sure where I will end up in Las Vegas this year, but I will be there.

Hello from a former resident of the Peoples Republic of Kalifornia (Fairfield). Now living in America outside of Fabulous Las Vegas Nevada.

Looks like that was just a way to add a sling without adding swivels. If you put a pad in it, that will change the length of pull on the stock. That may be good,or it may not.

Doesn't Wyomingslick have a library of hes already posted?

Make sure that the leather grain is going the right direction so that the sling has minimal stretch . Look up Turner slings, he make slings for competition shooters, and has mentioned the part about choosing the right leather.

Welcome to IFI . I have a few relatives in MI, and we still have 40AC in Rust Township that my Grandfather bought around WWI. I also see a lot of Michigan jackets in the thrift stores here, I know a few Michiganders that have escaped the snow for warmer winters here in the desert.

Hello from the desert of Southern Nevada.

We used belt, and disc sanders to shape foam for winery labelers, so a sanding/flap disc would probably be better than a wire wheel. Sanding left a really nice finished edge.

Depends on your rig, and strapping, but I would say to be safe, just pop the head off, and put it on the floor of the truck. I brought an old Adler patcher home that was on a Singer treadle stand by laying it down, and padding it. Made it home OK. It was kinda rough to start with, so I was cool with laying it down. My other Adler patcher I took the head off, and put it in the back of the station wagon padded with blankets.

Just knock the rest of the chrome off of the chipping ones. The chrome coming of will mess up the design.

All copper, and brass will develop verdigris if allowed to.. This usually happens with moisture, or corrosives contacting it for long periods of time. Veg tanned is better than chrome tan when copper is used, and a good wax would help to prevent verdigris. The wire will probably work fine. Jewelery wire is annealed to a dead soft condition, which means it has zero springing back when bent. Copper will work harden, so the more flexing it gets the tougher it will get till it cracks. For sewing this should not be a problem, just letting you know.

The first one looks like a cutter of some sort, and the second looks like a miniature nail puller-maybe for staples?

They will oxidize unless they are clear coated, and that would wear off eventually. Wire used in wire wrapped jewelery is dead soft, and uncoated. Some folks like the patina that copper gets with age. My Mom had some copper bracelets, and they all had a nice patina with the high spots highlighted from use. Why not let it get a patina, many leather workers apply an "antiquing" to simulate that on the leather.