BIGGUNDOCTOR

I have seen it on spools at hardware stores, camping outlets, and marine supply stores. Ask for bungee cord.

I can no longer hover on the title to get a preview of the topics. Worked fine yesterday, gone today.

Here are my thoughts on this. 1-do the basket weave in straight lines , don't try to follow the curve. 2-put a border around the rivets like you did around the edge . When you get near an edge you tip the stamp enough that you only make a partial impression that comes up to the edge of the border, or you do the border after the weave,and stamp over it.

Another option is to donate them to a BSA troop, Merit badge counselor, or summer camp. Then you can write them off as a donation. I know when i was a MB counselor at a summer camp we were always trying to scrounge leather up.

I have a stack of magazines that I would like to get to someone who can use them. I purchased a load of leather working stuff from a gentleman that was moving, and these magazines were included in the purchase. 37-Shop Talk 11-Western Mule 12-Mules and More 8-Western Horseman I have flipped through them, and will hold onto the LCSJ's for now. Shop Talk wants $6.85 + $2 shipping for back issues. I'll say for purposes of trade value $3ea + shipping / mailing cost. I would be interested in trading these for leather working books(not magazines), tools, or whatever else you may have. I am looking for the Craftool 3D stamps for the BSA ranks, Military branches, other discontinued 3D stamps, Lettering sets. I am into a LOT of different activities, so let me know what you may have in mind. blacksmithing, photography, ceramics, machining, welding, hot rods, classic cars, lapidary/rock hounding, cooking, shooting, reloading, and more.

The title of this thread reminded me of this pic.

Read the first 4 pages then jumped to the end. Best Brit TV show? Dr Who of course. Quick-to the Tardis! Most of the language diffs have been made. I still see vise/vice used in the blacksmith forum. I use a vise at work, and there are lots of vices in Las Vegas. I caused our Australian friends to giggle when I was around 12, when I said that I was "stuffed" after eating dinner. It means having sex in OZ. One thing that I have noticed is that we Americans are pretty uptight when it comes to sex / nudity compared to our friends in Europe, UK, and OZ. You won't see any page 3 girls in the local newspapers here. And even though we have the first amendment radio stations censor songs that are played. Our second amendment rights have spawned some business in this area. Tourists can go to some of our gun stores, and rent a machine gun, and they do quite well. Food. I am from CA and NV, so I grew up with lots of different types of food. In between San Francisco, and Sacramento , where I grew up, we had large populations from Asia, Latin America, and everywhere else. I grew up on basic American fare along with burritos, fajitas, won tons, fondue, lasagna, pizza, perogies, Kim Chee, birds nest soup, etc. I love food, so living near Las Vegas now gives me opportunities to get my curry fix, or any other hankering I may have taken care of. BBQ differences. Most places it means pork, in Texas it means beef. I try to eat at local places now instead of the chains. Can't say we had much in the way of regional fare where I grew up, other than maybe the shrimp cocktails, or Dungeness crabs down on Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco. That area was so diverse that it was like a worldwide food court everywhere you went. Found a cooker to do rosin potatoes while going through my folks estate. I remember Dad telling me about having them in South Carolina, so I may have to try some out. Rosin potatoes are cooked in pine tree rosin. Melt the rosin in the cast iron pot, and drop the potatoes in. They sink when they are raw, and float to the top when they are cooked.

If you get a used Dodge 24V more than likely the lift pump has already been replaced, maybe a couple of times. I may hold the record with 110,000 miles before mine went. I replaced it with a FASS HPFP which has a better reputation than the original Carter unit. I wouldn't let the lift pump problems keep me from buying one since there are now alternative units to put in it's place. Again, if you are considering a Dodge check out TDR's website, you could spend a week researching everything available. My truck has the 4:10 gears which are better for pulling, at the expense of a couple MPG. I had one local cowboy tell me that at the rodeos he attends the majority of the trucks towing the horse trailers are Dodges. The older ones may not have the ride quality, or the creature comforts of the Ford's, and GM's , but they do have the Cummins which is one Hell of an engine. After owning this truck I am never going back to a gas powered truck. See if there is someone that you know that would let you drive their truck for awhile to see how you like it.

I have a 01 Dodge 3500 4x4 Cummins 6 spd that has 216,000+ miles on it. It really depends on what YOU are intending to do with the truck. I tow heavy loads most of the time, so I went with a diesel. Tons of torque, good fuel mileage when loaded (14mpg @ 18,000#), and the stability of the dually has helped when loaded. There is rarely a time now when my truck does not have a trailer on it. My trailers run from 12' to 40' long. Diesel also lasts longer engine wise, and fuel wise-it won't go bad even after years of sitting- not like gasoline will. Oil changes are more expensive -12qts,and filters cost more too. A diesel needs clean fuel, and oil to live the longest. Transmissions-if it is MY truck it Will have a stick shift. All brands have had problems with the autos behind the diesels. The sticks usually give you a far lower first gear (granny gear) to get heavy loads started-helps on hills too, and the ability to push start if you pull a DOH! I will say look at the Dodges (2nd generation with the 24 valve Cummins), go diesel, and a stick. Someone may come on and suggest a Toyota, like belly buttons everyone has and opinion. The thing is that any truck abused will break, some are lemons, and some are spectacular. YOU need to figure out what your usage will be, and then go from there. You can get a lot of info on the Dodges at www.tdr1.com this is the website dedicated to the Dodge Cummins trucks from the Turbo Diesel Register.

For parctice pieces I would just find you local Tandy store, mine has a bin full of remnants to pick through. I believe they also carry Herman Oak. They also offer classes, and you can have access to a tutor that can give you hands on help if needed-the internet is only so good. In Vegas the leather guild meets at the Tandy store every month. Check em out.

Here is an option for the above nuts. You can readily find brass acorn nuts, so find a brass tube the correct size, and just cut spacers out of that. If you wanted to, you could even solder them together. You didn't mention how many you needed, or what size thread they have.

You might be surprised how much leather something like a corset will use up. Measure yourself to see how many sqft it will take to wrap around you. The other thing is that leather is not like buying cloth which is totally usable for the most part. With leather there are edges that will get trimmed off, , and it doesn't come in standard sizes, meaning you will have to get a big enough piece to make sure your patterns will fit on an uneven shaped hide.

Too cool, I have all of the leatherworking stuff that my Mom used. Use the tools, that is what they were made for. You can't hurt them unless you use a metal hammer on them. Cruise this site, and read all you can about the tools, and how to use them correctly. If taken care of, those tools will outlast you. See if your local Tandy has classes, a lot of them do. You may also check to see if there is a leather worker guild in the area. I have also bought tools from estates where no one in the family had an interest in leatherworking. They were happy to see them go to a good home. Funny how tools are treated differently than other items.

There are phase converters available to convert the single phase house current to 3 phase. I would use a rotary model over a static type.

Don't scrimp on an airbrush, get the best that you can afford. Iwata, and Paasche usually get the highest marks. I would get a double action non-gravity fed unit. The ones that use a bottle to hold the paint/etc have more capacity, and can be moved in more angles than the gravity fed fixed cup designs. There are several airbrushing websites out there with tons of information. That is all well and good, but everyone has a different style of working. Once you get some basic information on the different units available I would search out some outlets where you can talk to someone directly. Some art stores offer classes, or can put you in touch with airbrush artists who can help you decide what will work best for you. You can save a lot of headaches by actually trying units out before buying.

Look in the yellow pages for a local metal supplier. FleaBay, McMaster, etc will generally charge more than a regular supply house. If you find a supplier you can inquire about drops, these are the leftover sections from cut down bars.. These will save you a cut charge. There was a remnants store in Sacramento that I used to buy from. Their prices were more than scrap, but less than retail. You may have a local version. Check local scrap yards too, as some get new stock in from closed shops, etc. Check with local welding, or machine shops in your area. If they don't have it, they may be willing to add it to one of their orders to save you some $$ If they do, make them something nice. Secondly, do you have a picture of what you want to make? I am thinking that 1.5"-2" X .500" will be way way overkill. Tube shapes are strong, yet light. Aircraft aluminum is a marketing term since aircraft use many grades of aluminum from low grade to high grade depending on the usage. 6061 T6 is a very common grade that is widely available. For more strength a 2024, or 7075 can be used, and they are heat treatable. My background is that I am a machinist, and fabricator.

I really don't see any issue at all here folks. After all, has anybody seen a cow that was not a vegan? Therefor if the providing animal is a vegan, than the leather made from said animal is vegan leather. Right?

I was through that area a couple of weeks ago on the way to get some machine shop equipment in Los Angeles. I also pass through there when I make the scrap runs for work. I usually stopped in Victorville for dinner on the way back home, the Korean BBQ was pretty good. They have excellent Kim Chee. One of my coworker lived in Victorville until we relocated to Utah. I am 50 miles NE of Vegas on the 15. Maybe one of these days we can get together, and have a chat.

What is that first letter? Is it an A, or a Q? Depending on how big you plan to do that, it may lose detail / readability.

Over here in the States we have burners like that on the large propane camp stoves (not the Coleman camp stoves). I have a double burner on mine, but I have seen singles, as well as just the burners for sale. Another source may be a propane convection shop heater. I have one that goes from 75,000-200,000 BTU's, just one large ring burner.

Hey Katsass, whereabouts in the Mojave are you? I have a friend in Cal City, and I cruise through there on my up to the Bay Area to get stuff out of my folks estate.

I don't have that book, or recognize the part number. What is that stamp set of? Is it an alphabet, or something else? Picture?

My concern is how the handle is done-flat . It will tend to fold if any weight is applied to the mug. Handles are usually done on edge in order to get more rigidity.

As I used to teach the Scouts in my LW merit badge classes; the Nauga is a large species of African slug. The hides are removed, tanned, then adhered to the cloth backing to help stabilize them since they are not as strong as cowhide.

Them shoe-who-a-who-a's are getting some nice collars.