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Nicely done!

I agree. I'd drive myself nuts if I tried to get millimeter precision out of leather and leatherworking tools. I'd suggest taking 5 minutes and hitting that step with 320-grit sandpaper to smooth it out.

Well said, Mike. I've belonged to a number of different forums with generally unpleasant and irritable folks. Thankfully, Leatherworker.net is a cut above with good, caring people who are generous with their advice and talents.

That's really a great-looking design. And I think you did an awesome job on the custom interior. Lots of folks simply buy pre-built interiors and sew them in. Kudos!

Bill, congratulations on becoming the board's newest ambassador. And thanks for reminding everyone that comments are always welcome from newbies and experts alike. It's what makes Leatherworker.net a real community. As a long-time member, I can offer some insight as to why comments are often made sparingly. Way back in the summer of 2006, when Leatherworker.net was just getting off the ground, there were only about 100 members and maybe a dozen posts per day. It was easy to get to know everyone and follow and contribute to each topic. Of course, nowadays the forum is much larger. With many thousands of members from many countries and hundreds of posts to sort through, it's not easy to keep up. So for anyone who's interested, here are my suggestions for making your posts "comment-friendly": #1 - Create a descriptive title. You'll get more views and comments from folks genuinely interested in the topic. Example: try "Pictures of my latest pancake holsters" instead of "new stuff." #2 - Don't repeat a question that's already been asked and answered. Google is your friend. You can use it to exhaustively search this site using the following sample format: site:leatherworker.net olive oil #3 - Ask for specific feedback in your post. I've noticed that posts that ask questions receive much more attention than posts that simply state the obvious. #4 - If possible, post pictures to add to the narrative of your post. Regardless of the above advice, as Bill mentions, I've noticed good posts that go without comment. If someone stumbles across one, be the first to comment. That first reply often provides the spark that opens up a broader discussion. Regards, -Alex

I think the quality of the veg-tan leather and the Craftool stamps could be better, but if you visit a store in-person (and can hand-select your items), you're likely to find what you need at a decent price. Tandy's hardware (from screws to belt buckles) is top-notch, and the Eco-Flo line of dyes, glues, and finishes are preferred by many of us over the older, more toxic formulations.

Excellent point. I overlooked the value of the coupons and the free offers. So as HellfireJack mentions, a wise shopper could push the break-even point much lower than $200.

Beautiful work. I love the color and the tight fit.

I apply oils very lightly using a small piece of cotton fabric... Usually cut from a white T-shirt. I only apply a single, light coat. (Too much oil is a bad thing.) FWIW, I prefer olive oil over neatsfoot for a more rich, mellow color. You should try both on scrap to see which one you prefer. Good luck!

For several years now, I've been a member of Tandy's Wholesale Club at the $35 Gold Level. I've always been curious about the break-even point of this membership -- ie, how much I have to spend at Tandy in order to start saving money. Yesterday, I renewed my membership and purchased $111.98 worth of merchandise. I did the math, and this stuff would have cost $136.27 at retail. This ended up being an 18% savings (or $24.29). Looking at the individual line items, it seems Tandy offers Gold Members a 20% discount on most hardware, dyes, glues, etc. The savings on leather is somewhat less: the discount appears to hover in the area of 10-15%. Obviously, the break-even point varies based on the mix of products you purchase. But for anyone considering the Wholesale Club, my math indicates an average 18% savings for Gold Members. So, it appears you have to spend roughly $200 at Tandy before you recoup the $35 membership fee.

Fantastic work. Very clean and tight.

Totally amazing, as always.

Earlier this year, I was approached by a retailer who asked to feature my leatherwork in his shop. The retailer owns a well-known, independent gallery representing other area artisans. It's also located in a high-traffic shopping district. It sounded like a good opportunity and I agreed. After a few months, a change in the retailer's business model ended our partnership. But I certainly feel I learned a few lessons that I'll share here in case anyone else considers going down the "retail path." Lesson #1: Retailers take a big cut of the sales price. Retailers generally take a 40-50% cut of an item's sales price. This means you need to price your items accordingly. If adding 50% to the price of your goods is not feasible, then retail is probably not right for you. Also, keep in mind that your pricing must be consistent. You can't sell a belt at your retailer for $90, but charge $45 on Etsy. The customers will figure out the cheapest place to acquire your goods, and your retail relationship will come to a swift and inglorious end. Lesson #2: You should get a big benefit in exchange. Why do retailers take 50%? Because they're supposed to be providing value to your business. This value comes in the form of enhanced exposure, access to the business's clientele, joint marketing, and the value inherent in not having to file state sales tax returns, process shipping or provide in-person customer service. Now, 50% is a huge cut, so the retailer should be providing all of the above -- meaning, significant value to you. They should promote your goods via Facebook, broadcast email and other means. Lesson #3: Be picky. You don't necessarily need to partner with the first retailer that expresses an interest in you. Be selective. Visit the shop and look around. Would you shop there? More importantly, does the business cater to your target market? In my case, the retailer seemed to be a good fit for high-end leather accessories. They also featured jewelry and vintage home decor. But if I were selling holsters, I'd definitely find someplace else. Lesson #4: Build your inventory. Be prepared to meet demand for inventory, plus refresh your stock every 90 days. Your goal should be to establish a significant presence in your retailer's business. This means featuring a good selection of leatherwork. Different colors. Different price points. As an initial delivery, I provided 17 items. I've been told by other gallery owners that you should change out your stock every 60-90 days to ensure folks continue to see new stuff, whether it's selling or not. I hope this information helps anyone else who considers venturing into retail. I might also recommend the book, Craft Inc. by Meg Mateo Ilasco, which gave me plenty of initial pointers on working with retailers. Best, -Alex

Ken, Any sort of acrylic finish (Super Shene, Acrylic Resolene, etc.) will work just fine. I use them all the time on my wallets with no issues whatsoever. Good luck! -Alex

TwinOaks, FWIW, that was the best concise description of the pros and cons of hand-stitching and machine-stitching that I've read to-date. Thanks for taking the time to write that up. And I'd like to cast my vote as another craftsman who prefers hand-stitching. Until a machine is absolutely necessary and unavoidable, it's best to forego the cost and learning curve. And hand-stitching can be an enjoyable and meditative process if you're not rushing things.

Fantastic-looking bag, and amazing craftsmanship. Very, very nice!

Chuck, that's some inspirational work. So glad to see someone's still taking the time to do really nice period pieces. I also enjoyed reading your "Sure, but why?" quote... There's certainly lots of wisdom in that for any craftsperson. Best, -Alex

Fabulous! Congratulations.

Chuck and/or Art -- at the risk of taking this thread in a new direction, would you explain what you mean by "triple plate" and "jacked harder"? I've always purchased my leather straight from a retailer and have no experience with tanneries. Still, I'm curious about what you mean by the above quotes... It sounds like a tannery can customize your order to give it more firmness, etc.?

Colby, I agree with Art... If you're not using a ton of leather, you should consider the double shoulders sold by Tandy. The advantage is that you can visit the store and leaf through the stack yourself, sizing up the feel, thickness and quality. I think all of Tandy's double shoulders are now imported, and some are real garbage. However, I've never walked away from the store without leather. There's always at least one or two shoulders that are clean and consistent. By the way, if you were happy with what you received from Springfield, you might just go back to them. I think it's great that you're experimenting, but at some point, you might want to cut your losses and go back to the "sure thing." Good luck! -Alex

Will, thanks for sharing your thoughts. I've noticed lots of folks here who are hesitant to try the Eco Flo products, but I've been using them since 2007 and really like the results. Sometimes even "old schoolers" can find something positive in the new formulations! It never hurts to give them a try... Regards, -Alex

Wow. Beautiful work on both the bag and the knife. I can imagine the new owner is very pleased!

I agree... It looks like you're off to a great start. My first leather items didn't look nearly as good as yours!

Very nice! I really like the design, and the craftsmanship is top-notch.

I agree with Pete. Looks good as-is. However, if you're really after a medium brown, try one of the following two options (on scrap first, of course): (1) Mix Lexol with your Fiebings Medium Brown spirit dye. This will cut the absorption rate of the dye and lead to a lighter, richer color. (It will also properly condition the leather.) (2) Try Eco-Flo Leather Dye in the Timber Brown color. Apply in several very light coats until you get the color you're after. Good luck -- achieving a decent medium brown is a significant challenge for all leatherworkers! You're not alone in trying to figure this out.