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You can also backstitch twice, and then glaze the top of the final two stitches with about a quarter-drop of Super Glue. Backstitching alone should hold the stitches, but the extra little bit of Super Glue locks them forever. Good luck!

Conditioning should be done before sealing with a top-coat finish. But if you forget, it's no big deal. Oils can penetrate Resolene... It just takes longer.

Welcome, Maria. Those are some nice-looking designs. Did you create the designs, or do you let your Colombian artisans design the work? Welcome aboard! -Alex

Never would have thought of this... Thanks for the tip! Looking forward to reading more as you're able to post it.

NYS Guy, I've applied acrylic finishes over Eco Flo dyes for many years, always using a damp sponge and gently rubbing on two or three very light coats. Let each coat dry about 5 minutes, and buff the final coat with a soft cotton rag. Now, I've stayed away from dipping just because a heavy coat of any finish can make the leather look plasticky. But an airbrush (or spray bottle) would work too, since they both apply a limited amount of finish. When working with new products or techniques, I always recommend trying the procedure out on scrap leather first before you do the finished item. That will save you the heartache of putting something in the garbage can over a messed-up finish. Good luck!

Hi, Starman: I agree with Chuck. If you're interested in a soft, pliant leather, you should be looking at latigo or chrome-tanned leather. Trying to turn ordinary veg-tan into something different by over-oiling is not optimal. All you'll accomplish is creating a belt that's weak and prone to stretch, and one that weeps oil and stains clothes. Keep in mind that a belt should have a good measure of rigidity, anyway. Belts are load-bearing and subject to stress. Soft leathers will stretch, or the holes will enlarge. Neither situation helps keep your pants up. As such, I'd steer clear of soft, chrome-tanned leather and probably focus on latigo. If you visit your nearest Tandy Leather Factory store, I'm sure the manager would be happy to show you all of the different kinds of leather and explain how each is used. Good luck, and welcome to LW.net! Best, -Alex

Beautiful work. I think the designs, the colors, and especially the decorative stitching turned out really nice. p.s. I'm also disappointed that Sojourner Leather has disappeared... For a while, they were producing really unique and fresh designs in a rustic style, accentuated by Argentine "cincelado" stamp work...

Exceptional work! I especially like the vivid colors and the vertical ribbing.

I agree. These are good people who really care about their customers.

Nice job. I especially like the edges... Such a smooth finish is often hard to achieve.

I also like the rivets. For an older-style pocket knife, you want to create a sheath that has a vintage appeal, and I think the rivets and the oiled color contribute to that. Nice job.

I'm very sorry to hear this news. Dave was one of the first leatherworkers I met -- initially, on a knife-related forum -- and I was glad that he migrated over here to share his work and expertise with LW.net members. He was generous with his time and his wisdom, and will be missed. -Alex

Kevin, the design is superb and the craftsmanship (of course) is unequalled. Outstanding choice of materials and colors. Keep up the good work! -Alex

I'd say your husband hasn't lost his touch! Beautiful work.

Really nice job. It must feel good to restore and improve a worthy saddle. Sounds like you'll be enjoying it for years to come!

Welcome aboard!

Much nicer than the original, IMO. Congrats.

Good to know... Thanks for sharing.

Beautifully done. I love the color combination, plus the addition of the custom zipper pull. Very classy!

I might add that the distance you need between the last hole and the tip also depends on the belt buckle. For center-bar buckles, you need less distance (really, just a little more than the length of the buckle itself). For heel-bar buckles, you have to go a little further since you have to tuck under a separate belt keeper. General formulas work great, but once you get used to a certain style of buckle, you may want to fine-tine your dimensions for a more custom fit. Good luck!

Used to use a Q-tip... Easy to control but takes forever. Now using a 1" foam brush. With a little practice it's just as accurate and much, much faster!

Joe, I'm a big fan of your work, and I love this latest item. I, too, would be curious to learn how you applied the text to the leather... Very crisp.

Sam, welcome to Leatherworker.net. I don't see your attachment, but I've generally used 4-5 oz. veg-tan leather to create small items like cellphone cases or wallets. (For a wallet, you'll also need an interior, which can be purchased pre-built from Tandy, if so inclined.) Good luck! -Alex

That's spectacular. Great idea, Ed.

Jean, you can indeed oil a saddle after Resolene is applied. As L.B. notes, it just takes a little longer to absorb. I'm not a saddlemaker, but I am a big believer in experimentation. I see no problem in the combination you've selected, but I'd sure as heck try it out on a piece of scrap leather (or an inconspicuous spot) before applying it wholesale to the saddle. This will ensure you get the results you're expecting. I've ruined many a project by trying something "for the first time" on a finished product! Good luck! -Alex