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I use markers all the time on my painted belts and spur straps for the lettering and have no problem the markers I use are acrylic based. Then I coat them with acrylic resolene.

My son's new pad to match his chaps.

You know bull riders like to stand out.

Does anyone have a pattern for a phone case an LG Chocolate?

See what you all think

While I'm waiting on the UPS truck Thought I'd post these.

Those are nice.

I have a pair of chaps to add some initials to. I removed the old letters and the holes from the previous stitching can really be seen. The new lettering will not cover the old holes.Whats the best way to repair them so they aren't noticeable. The chap bodies are 3-4 oz black..

Take a look and see what you think

getting closer to finishing.

They look good.

Here's a pair of chaps I'm working on. to go with those yoke I post a while back. See what you think so far.

What I do is I take a ruler and my stylus and I make a straight line which ever way I want the basket weave to run. You can make a grid if necessary. I mark my stamp also on one end to make sure my stamp is always going the same direction. Some stamps if you turn them around for some reason they don't connect good. Take your time and practice. Some times it helps to make a light tap first on your stamp and then a hard hit. When I was learning a found that this helped me to keep the stamp from moving. When I would hit the stamp hard the first time I would be holding the stamp tight and worrying about keeping it straight. I would then make a miss lick on the stamp with the hammer and cause the stamp to slide or walk over. And then it was all out of line. Also is if you make a light hit and pick up the stamp you can see if its connected good and straight.If not just move your stamp making it straight and have another try at it.This helped me to learn where to hold the stamp to keep it straight and where it need to be to connect good . Once you learn where the stamp needs to be placed it won't take long and you will have the hang of it.Practice and take your time.

You were right when the thread was at the back side of the cone it was causing the problem. It must be this new cone cause it never happened before. but anyway i pulled the thread off a good bit and no problems till it had to pull it. So i think the problem is solved so thanks to everybody for the help.

What can cause a machine to skip a stitch? Sews great for 8 to ten stitches and the skips one and picks right back up for 8 to 10 good stitches and then skips one. I've tried a new needle and cleaned and oiled the machine and checked the tension and nothing has helped and idea?

Thanks

The blue is turquoise. Apple barrel brand 2614. I mix it with water till it really diluted I apply it with a sponge brush lightly applying really thin coats drying between coats. I put as ever how many coats it takes not to see in more natural color. The I seal it with acrylic resolene. I lightly coat it until I reach the amount of shine i want. Be sure with the paint to apply thin coats at a time if you you don't you will get cracking when the belt is flexed a lot. hope this helps.

When my needles arrive I'll give it a try. Thanks for the help I may need some more advice later. I'll let you know how it works out after I receive the needles I ordered. I think the machine is worth $150 though it sewed great with the 69 thread and that's what I use on all my metallics and it sews fast for straight lines.. That's why I wouldn't say its a leather machine its fast for someone green. It works fine for me. I think I'm just going to pay the guy and play with it a while. Thanks again.

I'm going to order some needles and try it. I can get all the way up to a 28 ga needle for it. I going to try that first. The motor strength isn't issue it has to much motor. But the tension and the needle must be the problem. I'm not sure how to adjust the bobbin tension on this machine.

Here's a pair a chaps i got finished earlier.

I can't agree with you on it not working for leather cause here is a pair of chaps I sewed with them. But had trouble when the 138 was used on the yoke but it sew through a 5oz and a cow hide and 3 pieces of metallic. It just doesn't want to tighten up the 138 good I think it was the needle size. I wasn't sure about the thread size since the manual said 24-3 max thread. I was wonder if its the needle or the thread causing the trouble.

It is a 6200g double needle machine.here is a website with the manual www.universalsewing.com/images/parts_lists/all/4j0mk4p7.pdf It sewed with the 138 nylon but skips some stitches and doesn't tighten up the thread well on the back I tried tightening the tension but it didn't help. I think maybe the needle was to small for the thread it had a 125/20 needle in it. It stitched great with the 69 nylon.

I'm looking at a union special sewing machine and in the book it says 24-3 max cord. max usable thread.So what is the largest nylon thread it will sew with. Does anyone know?

This is the yoke use on most of my junior chaps.This set of chaps are going to be black and white cowhide. Hot pink and silver and metallic design like my son's calf riding chaps if you looked at those. The legs will have 3 crosses or one single large cross (waiting on the customer for that that) and the leg flap will have a basket weave piece with a cross inlay with the hot pink. The belt will have the boy's nick name B-boy on it like his belt I made him trimmed in pink. I just waiting on the leather. Here's his belt.

This is my design. I waiting on leather to finish so when i get done I'll post them