barra

I had to read this post 3 times to work out what Bruce was who. I have thought about getting the Dusty dvd's (and may still do so). My initial reaction though is why so cheap. I totally agree with Greg. While $400 (near $500 for me as I'm in Australia) at first glance makes you wince, but what price knowledge. If it assists you better understand construction it will in the long run help you speed up production and save the hours of floundering about. My only problem spending that money is I would like to see what the content of the dvd is before commiting to a purchase. If what is displayed in the dvd is exactly the info I am after to me it is cheap at half the price. Maybe you blokes can post the content of the video/dvd's you have and that will assist us deciding on a purchase Barra

Ducttape. I was trained by an English saddler so lets see what we can come up with. Is it possible for you to take a couple of extra pics from different angles. What I would like to see is how the roll of leather is joined to the saddle at the gullet. That roll of leather (that is torn) is called the front facing and extends down the flap, across the gullet and down the other flap. I am after seeing how the panel (padding for the horse), which includes the front facing is attached to the top of the saddle. Let me go fishing and i will see what other info I can find to assist you. Don't worry It is actually a fairly easy job and to return it into a safe/serviceable condition can easily be tackled by someone with basic leatherwork skills. Barra

Now we are cooking with gas with good pictures. Great layout K-man. You have given me many ideas. What a fantastic idea using seconds kitchen cabinets. Your layout looks to be roomy as well as functional. I have a question about the hydraulic press behind the drill press. Is it what you are using as your clicker and if so does it work like a car jack but in reverse. I will try and post some updated pics this weekend of my set up. The biggest problem I have where I am now is natural lighting. Were I was before xmas had a huge window in front of the bench. The only way now to let in natural light is to open up the garage roller doors. It is winter here and that is crazy talk. I do have my stitcher on rollers with brakes so if the weather is fine I can roll it out onto the patio area along with the stitching horse. I too don't have a sink so i am resolved to using plastic tubs. The nearest sink is in the bathroom which is just inside the door as I enter the house from the garage. This is a trap. It is too close so the temptation is there to use it but to do so would mean death. I forgot to mention my most cherished workshop implement, the coffee pot The beer fridge used to fit too but alas that is out on the patio. Keep he pics of workshops coming guys and girls. They don't have to be from saddle makers. Barra

The Pics show the homemade draw down, the stitching horse and part of the bench set up as it appeared as it was at my last house. My main problem is I move frequently due to the bill paying job so nothing can be overly permanent. Everything must be able to be dismantled easily. At this point in time I have the use of one half of a double garage. I use the term double garage loosely (don't park 2 cars in and expect to be able to open the car doors to get out). I too use those dismantable metal, knock together with a hammer type benches/shelving. On top of these I have a pine bench top that just sits on top. The boards are joined with wooden slats. In my last place I had 2 of the metal shelves coming out long ways from the wall about a metre apart. The slats holding the pine boards together are exatly the width of the metal shelving apart so that the hole thing sits on top and sort of locks into place. I then had another 2 metal shelves along another wall as storage shelves. Where I am now I could not for love nor money set up the workshop like I used to have it. No amount of re arranging would make things fit the way I had it. The space saving compromise was to use all 4 metal shelving units together as the bench space and I then placed the pine top on as previously. 2 things happened that in hindsight are actually benefits. I could no longer use the pine top slats to lock onto the original 2 shelf units. This mean't that the slats sit directly on top of the benches making the bench top about 2 inches higher than previously. This 2 inches higher is actually an improvement. I also now have gaps between the slats. This has proven a convenient place to slide in some trays for litle nic nacs and note books. Also the extra 2 " is actually a better height for me. I have in the past taken the traditional saddlers route and stored my hand tools on a back board in the usual leather loops. While I needed the tools readily available and always at arms length, I have always needed a huge backboard meaning some tools always ended up on the top row and invariably just ot of arms reach. Also I have lived in the tropics and tools literally rusted over night. What I did then was to group all my tools into categories, edge tools,punches, awls etc. For each of these categories I made individual canvas tool rolls. When all the tool rolls were rolled up I found they actually took up surprisngly little space. The tools rolls were then stored on a shelf above the bench. I find that for each type of job I will know mainly in advance the tools I will need so i just get them out of their roll and have them on the bench til the job is done and then store it back into it's roll. I think we all have our favourite of each type of tool, you know the one that just sits right in the hand. I then worked out what tools I continually use for every job and made a seperate canvas tool roll for those. This has a few stitch marking wheels, single creaser (tickler), compass dividers, burnishing stick, favourite awl, adjustable screw creaser round knife and a few assorted sundries. This tool roll is open on the bench for every job and gets rolled up at night. It is also the travelling tool roll and allows me to do odd running repairs at the barn with the home made stitching pony made out of a plank with a large bulldog clamp attached (not pretty but it works). On the back of the bench I have a few storage bins for buckles etc and in between those I have a pine board that I have drilled holes into of varying sizes to store what I call the odds and sods tools (much like storing stamping tools in a wooden block. Underneath this is just enough space for my smasher, plough guage and a few nut bolt and screw containers. All of my hand sewing threads are stored in used plastic yoghurt containers with an eylet in the lid to feed the thread out of. I then have just enough space under the bench for a crate with stains, dyes, neatlac etc. Oh yeah I have a sheet of perspex that I put on top of the bench when staining and spills just wipe off so it is clean for next time. Also on top of the bench is my marble block and stamping tools as I like to stand when stamping. I still like to have a pine cutting board but also have a few of the plastic kitchen type ones. A small one of those goes into the travelling kit. Under the bench I have stored things in crates much like Bruce has done. For my cutting out bench I have an old drafting table that has height adjustable legs. This table also has a very deep draw and this is where I store my sheepskins and roo skins. Under this bench is where I store my bridle sides and skirting type leathers. At the moment they are rolled up and stored on end in packing boxes (not overly fussed on that idea). Butted up next to the main bench (no choice due to space) is my harness stitcher and because I don't use the treadle function, crap gets stored underneath there like spools of thread. Against another wall I have an old singer 29K13 treadle base with a woodentop. This is where I have attached my hand operated eyelet/stud press and rounding machine. Next to that is the singer 132K6. I wish I had the space for a decent sewing table to make canvas work easier. I then have just enough space for the home made draw down horse (a carpenter I am not). This horse is quite tall compared to most I have seen but this suits me. I then have a metal tray underneath the drawdown as I find this a convenient place to place tools down when I want hands free. Immediatley next to that is the also home made stitching horse. Being trained by an old English saddler and harness maker. The stitching horse concept was until recently foreign to me. I have always sat at the bench with a set of clams. A few years ago I saw a picture of the stitching horse (what is that bizarre looking contraption I thought) So I then decided to make one and now use it about 50/50 with the clams. The horse has a fairly wide top with cut outs for my legs. This means I have a wide base for my fat arse as well as space in front of the stitching clamp to place a few tools. Onto the very front of the stitching horse I have clamped my splitter. It is here for 2 reasons. I find I don't use it much and also it annoys me being on the main bench top. Most of my patterns I have laminated and if the pattern is more than A3 size I use as many as required and have reference makes, so that for example I might join say 3 laminated segments of the pattern by matching up the reference marks to make the finished size pattern. For small patterns I find pictures and blow up the image on a photocopier until i have the size I want and then laminate. I make the pattern about 1/8" smaller than I want the finished pattern as this allows for cutting out the laminated sheet and still ensures it is sealed up. The large laminated patterns I leave the sheet intact but then run the pattern under the sewing machine with no thread. When I want to use it I place it on the leather and with a scrap of sheepskin dusted in talc I run over the pattern. Enough of the talc enters all the little stitch holes and it is enough to see when the pattern is removed. I then run over the talc line with a single creaser and wipe off the excess talc. On some patterns this technique is not convenient and I make those patterns out of heavy vinyl or even old lino flooring. I love tinkering with things and trying to turn it into a labour saving leather tool. I have an old movie projector film winder that I am going to turn into either a bobbin winder or a adjustable edge creasing machine if I have to die trying. A lot of tools I have found in the bargain bin at the hardware and lots can easily be adapted into leatherwork tools. I also like looking at tools of other trades and trying to figure out what leatherwork application I can turn it into. Barra

G'day all. I was just wondering if we could share tips on how we have all layed out our workshops/benches. I know some of us are restricted with space, so I am curious about how people have overcome the space problem with imaginative use of what they have available. Barra

If The stitching is prone to wear I will use a stitch groover/adjustable racer or American racer to recess the stitching. I sometimes use a tool which I think is actually a boot makers tool for stitching soles. It has a small slightly curved blade (about 1/4" wide X 5/8" long). The blade cuts into the grain side at about a 30 degree angle and leaves the grain side intact. This then lets me open up this groove to stitch in. I can then glue the grain back down. If I rub over this with my smasher then it is almost invisible. This technique is described in Stohlman Vol 2, page 364, where a round knife is used. Barra

http://lucris.com/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1 A possible low cost alternative to hydraulic clickers for small to medium production. There is a US distributor link somewhere on this site. I agree that it is an alternative to get knives made and rent the use of someone elses until your production warrants you buying one yourself. Barra

Thanks Bruce. Much appreciated. Barra

http://www.abc.net.au/tropic/stories/s1360765.htm Here is a link to a story on the Australian broadcasting Corporation (ABC) relating to Fred. It is dated 04 May 05

A huge thanks to Johanna for the new look Saddles and tack section. You have hit the nail on the head with the structure. Hats off to Bruce for being moderator. Keep up the fantastic work guys and Thanks for a great and informative site in general. Barra.

Hi Darc. Great link, not just for the tree story. I just thought I would post a couple of pics of saddles made with the 2 styles of trees. The first tree would be used for a saddle similar to the first picture and the rawhide covered tree would be used for picture 2 . The metal bar protruding from the pommel area on the rawhide tree is to suspend the stirrup leather. This is so that in the event of being thrown then there is a chance the leather (fender) will come off, freeing the rider. Traditionally the panel (padding for the horse) is lined in woollen serge and stuffed with a mix of hair and wool to allow the horses back to breathe and wick away moisture. This allows the panel to eventually pack down hard to the shape of the horses back. The saddle should then have a second layer sewn over the 1st and more stuffing added (known as counterlining). It is this 2nd layer that is repaired/replaced for the rest of the saddles life. For the rider the seat is made over a layer of webbing that is sort of like a hammock so that the riders seat bones are not in contact with the hard tree bars.The wing shaped protrusions are called either poley pads or knee pads. As the traditonal saddle developed originally had the knee pads down near the riders knees. As the saddle developed over the years the pads got higher and higher but the term knee pads stuck. On the rawhide type tree the pads would be sewn to the flap (fender) and are leather covered heavy sole leather or made similar to your bucking rolls and are stuffed with flock. I just thought I would try and explain what those weird looking trees were for. Thanks again Darc

G'day all. I was just wondering if anyone has measurent guides and/or resources to find patterns for various tack, eg. headstalls, breastplates etc. Any assistance would be appreciated. Barra

T Moore. I have a copy of a catalogue called Mossmans illustrated guide for purchasers of horse furnishing goods. From the cover it says that it was first published in 1892. My copy was printed in 1990 and is 300 pages of horse related accoutrements from the 1890's including about 30 pages devoted to saddles many of which are Sam Stagg rigged. Let us know if this could be the same book. Barra

Touche Wildrose. The curse of the leatherworker. Barra

A suggestion is to look around at other iems that are sewn together and modify the construction techniques to suit your tool bag. eg. look at saddle bags to see how they have added a gusset to give the bag depth. Another idea could be to surf sewing sites in general on the net. The techniques used for sewing clothes, bags in fact any fabric item can then be adapted for a multitude of leather projects. How many guys out there have been slapped for perving on the Gals when all you were doing was checkng out how her handbag was put together. Barra

Thanks Greg. Much appreciated on the info> I have had this machine for about 8 yeas and have tinkered with it on and off ever since. I have finally been able to get it going again but until your post have not been able to get any history on it. Thanks very much again. P.S I visited your website and and am in awe Barra

Soycomb. What type of edge creasing tool are you using. Is it a commercially made adjustable variety, or is it something like those plastic ones that you can get from places like Tandy. Personally I have had better success with ones I have made myself. A good homemade creaser can be made by cutting a groove in a piece of bone so that it is your desired distance from the edge. I have also done the same with the wooden handle of cheap boot knives. I only use my adjustable metal creaser if hot creasing as I am not overly fussed on the angle of the handle in relationship with the creasing part of the tool (plays havoc with my arthritis). The trick to a good creased edge is to run the creaser the entire length of your strap in one go. Up and back 3 times should suffice. Try and avoid rubbing up and down in short jerky movements as this can produce a jerky crease line. Until tou get used to it you can also try screwing down a little step to a wooden board and clamp this board to your bench. This will give you something to butt the strap against while you crease the outer edge. Barra

Thanks Art. I have contacted Leightons in Canada who redirected me elsewhere which led to a dead end. While I knew about the Jone/Brother UK connection I would have never thought to contact Tony Luberto. You are correct. The ol girl uses a boat type shuttle (supposedly the same as the Pearson) but there is no bobbin winder so I just put the bobbin pin into a rechargeable electric drill chuck and hit the button and this works a treat. Again thanks Art. You've been a great help. Barra.

Place some Fine grade steel wool and jam as much as you can into a jar, then pour in white vinegar to completely cover the steel wool. Put on an airtight lid and let sit for a few days. The steel wool dissolves and the mixture gets darker and darker. Every time you put on a new application, its darker. You don't have to wait long between coats. You should shake it every few day's. Barra

G'day all. I live in Australia and have dabbled in leatherwork in one form or another since I was about 15 yrs old. I apprenticed to an old English saddler and harnessmaker then bought the tools of another saddler who decided to retire at age 94. He said he would have kept going but the arthritis was getting to him and his eyes were giving out. He finally died at age 106. Most of these tools are dixon brand, either joseph or thomas and date from the early 1900's and were seriously used full time in a workshop in the days when horse transport still ruled. They are still in great condition and will outlast me. I have since persued a career that has involved the fabric work related to aircraft which taught me to use an industrial sewing machine. (I forgot to mention that while apprenticed I was the sewing machine). I then spent 4 years teaching my aircraft trade including teaching people how to use industrial sewing machines (we were all numpties once). I am now in the process of putting the old workshop back together an getting back into saddlery and harness making. which I am finding quite the sanity break. Keep the posts going. Cheers for now. Barra

Hi all. I am new to this site an firstly let me say how much I have enjoyed reading all the posts with a wealth of information on a broad range of leather related topics. I have an old harness stitcher that i have restored and is FINALLY back to working condition. I have not been ale to find out any history on this type of stitcher and would appreciate if anyone can shed some light on it's history. The treadle stand has Jones incorporated into the scroll work Now I know the history of the Jones company but can not find anything on this ol stitcher. From what I can deduce it was a pre cursor to the Pearson 6, uses the same needle system and shuttle. Any info greatly appreciated. Barra