JS22

Thank you Jim for the pattern. I was the original poster asking for the pattern and have been out of town and unable to follow the thread. You've been a great help!

I use a air brush to spray resolene on as my finish coat. I feel I get a more even coat with it. Or maybe I don't lately. I started off with a cheapo harbor freight type in the beginning and it has served its purpose up until now. It just wont spray consistently the same pattern or volume as I'm working. I keep as clean as I can, so it's not that its gummed up. Can someone recommend a brush that will provide a more consistent spray that wont break the bank?

Thanks Glokanator, that's a start. Can't say i'm too thrilled about this undertaking.

I have a customer who has requested 2 pommel holsters. I'll be honest in saying, I didn't even know what one was until I googled it. Any one have a idea where I can find a pattern, or atleast a place to start? Thanks

Some time back I remember someone had posted a pictorial of a belt billet and buckle end with arrows and such depicting the proper way for folks to measure for a belt when calling in an order. I cannot find the post. Does someone have a similiar illustration I could copy and paste? Thanks

Shooter, I use W&C skirting for holster making. They will split it to any weight you need. It stamps and molds great. It also takes oil beautifully. Here is a pic of a holster made with W&C skirting split to 7oz. You can also look at this page. Andrewsleather.com, he uses W&C leather almost exclusively for his holsters.

I'm looking to get into the credit card accepting business. Most items I sell are high dollar Cowboy rigs $400+. I'm usually approached at local shooting matches and asked to do work. When I get it done, usually meet them at the next scheduled match to collect. It would be nice to be able to offer credit card processing on the spot. I have run accross several 3rd part companies that will process by calling in with a touch tone or cell phone and entering in the purchasers info by key type. No contracts, no upfront cost, no equipment to buy, no cancellation fee, no business checking needed. I've seen from $5 to $10 a month and anywhere from 2.69% +.30 up to highs of 4% or so. I don't have a smart phone as work provides a non feature phone free of charge and cant see the extra expense at this time. So free smart phone options are out at this time. Any one used these services?

Well here they are. My second and third project completed in my own shop with my new Cowboy 3500. I guess at some point I'll stop keeping count, but at this point it's easy. Let me know what you think. Two gun rig, border stamped with ostrich leg accents. Back side of ostrich rig. Well the pictures did not turn out as intended. The second two gun rig is border stamped with ostrich leg accents. Then their is a picture of the back side of the rig.

Thanks, exactly what I was looking for.

I'm looking for a 1/2" Chicago screw in brass, in quantities of 100 or so. The longest screw you can get from tandy is 3/8". I use the screws in conjunction with t-nuts in some holster applications and 3/8" is just a bit to short. Besides I rarely end up using the screw posts, so I'm spending money on something I don't really need. Thanks!

Bob, Thanks Bob, without the help from you and practicing on I couldn't tell you how much leather, this is the first project I completed on your machine. Heck, this is the first project I've ever completed on my own. Thanks!

In SASS events, we often shoot side matches called Wild Bunch matches. It is based on the movie ( The Wild Bunch ) where 1911 style pistols were used. It typically involves 3 to 4 magazine changes, up to 10 rifle rounds, and 4 or so shotgun rounds. Scenarios could change depending on the match director.

I'm pretty happy with the way my machine stitches look on the front side of my projects, but the backside looks no where near as nice as the front. I'm still pretty green at this machine thing and don't won't to make it any worse. It's especially a problem when I want to laminate exotics to a belt and the liner comes out looking like this. Any suggestions? First pic is the front. Second is the back.

Rayban, The main belt width is 2 1/4", the billets are 1 1/2". The liner is toast colored suede from The Hide House in California ( Item # is 613TO ).Both the belt and holster are lined with it. The thread size is # 346 with a #26 needle.

Go big or go home I guess. My very first project on my own, in my own shop, on my new Cowboy 3500. Thanks to all who have answered my questions in the past. You have all had a hand one way or another in my progression to this point. It is a Wild Bunch rig for cowboy action shooting in genuine matte brown alligator. What do you think?

So I've been practicing and practicing with my new machine. I'm about ready to tackle the project I've had cut out for over a week. I've got the backstitching figured out and am confident it won't unravel. However, the first stitch not so confident. I pull the lock stitch tight in the middle and cut off both ends near the leather with an exacto. It seems as thought it may unravel pretty easy. Should I start with a reverse stitch first, melt the ends, or what?

The regular that came with the machine.

Catskin, You are correct. I simply wanted to know why when I switch from one weight to the other does the machine sew different stitch lengths. Bob was very helpful in fiquring out the solution. As Rayban stated, I have to adjust the lever when I switch from one weight to another. I'm just trying to figure out why it does it. As new as I am to machines, I was under the assumption it would sew the same stitch length no matter what weight it was presented until I changed the setting myself.

Would someone with a Weaver account be willing to order me 20 or so "Paul's buckles" and matching keepers from Weaver. I obviously would be willing to pay for them and shipping and a little for your time if you so desire. I am a hobbyist at this time and don't have the neccesary requirement nor a $250 order to start an account. I had asked this question a time ago and someone responded. Since then the site had some issues and I lost all of that info. Any help or direction would be appreciated. Thanks, JS22

The machine was set up to sew out of the box exactly as I asked it to be. I have been in contact with Bob Kovar at Toledo sewing and he has been very accomodating. As I stated in my post, I am newer than new when it comes to sewing machines. I did not want to continually pester Bob with a barage of questions as I learn the machine. I thought maybe I could gain some insight here on the forum.

Could someone please explain to me the relationship between the length of my stitches and the thickness of material to be sewed. I am a sewing machine virgin. Have never touched one until last Friday when I recieved a brand new Cowboy 3500.Thye machine is similiar if not identical to a Artisan 3000 and Cobra class 3. I have stitched and stitched scrap leather for the past few days trying to figure this thing out. My first project will be of alligator. I can't afford to muff it up. My project is a wild buch rig for cowboy action shooting. It consist of 7/8, 9/10, and 12/13 oz skirting. The holster will be close to a 3/4" welt. The stitching looks exactly how I want on the lighter leather, but when I switch to the thick stuff ( 1/2" or more) I get little teeny stitches. Do I have to adjust this thing every time I switch leather thickness. Is there a tutorial on this somewhere? Thanks!

I am not sure what he is going to sell the belts for. I know I wouldn't, or should I say, couldn't sell them for anything less than about $200 if I were paying for the hides. The more I think of it, The fact is, I'm doing all the work I would do anyway to sell and profit from a $200 belt, yet not making the $ 200 because I am using his supplied hide. I think you guys are right, I may be selling myself short. Maybe the $50 to $60 range would be more inline. Only thing is. I don't know how much he has into each hide on his end, and if this would price him out of the ballgame. Another question I may should ask is, what does he expect done with the scraps. ( The middle of the belly and neck section that are left over ) If he's going to let me keep these, I can make a great profit on holsters and sheaths. This all brings up another thought. If he's going to expect me to try and use the whole hide, ie., piece together belts out of what section I cant cut the full length from, We're talkin a whole new ball game. I guess I have alot of questions???

I second The Ostrich Market. Henry is a absolute great guy to talk to. Although I've never purchased from them, Roje' leather has some pretty darn good prices.

Thanks for the replies so far. To clarify, I will only be supplying the leather, screws, and my time and effort. The buyer will supply the alligator hides and buckles. Best I can figure, I will have right at $3 in cost into each belt. I've been tooling around the $18 to $20 dollar range. This would pay for the materials and net me $ 15 to $ 17 an hour for my time and effort. If I run these belts as a production run ( cutting, laminating, sewing, burnishing, edging in steps, I don't think I'll have but about an hour of actual work in to each belt, if that. Am I on the right track? Any and all opinions appreciated.

I called a hide dealer today to enquire about a couple gator hides for an upcoming project. In our quite lengthy conversation he proposed I make him 20 or so belts using his hides which he would provide. He asked what I would charge to provide the leather and hardware not to include the buckles. The buckles would be at his cost. Knowing that I am paying about $ 5 a square foot for double shoulders and about .20 cent a piece for chicago screws, I would have about $3 of my own material in each belt not including glue, and thread which is nominal. If these were your cost. What would your time be worth? More bluntly put, what would you charge per unit complete? Also, keep in mind, the next order would be in the 100's range. Thanks!