gigi

Thank you very much for the hint! It is very nice of you to help some other small buyers like myself: I find it difficult to find good leather at a reasonable price.

May I ask what needle size are you using? I have exactly the same model (bought it in used condition) and the manual is listing 2134-35 needle system. Ordered some needles 134x35LR and they are too long. Thanks!

A very useful book is 'Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes' by Tony & Kay Laier: exemplifies the steps for different types of leather dyes: alcohol, oil, or water based, resisted ('blocked') or not with Leather Sheen or Tan-Kote; also the use of Acrylics and Antique Finish. If I use water based dyes I dilute it with water until I obtain the desired shading, step by step working light to dark. It's best to test the steps on a test piece of leather first.

THANKS A LOT! Now I understand. I only have a walking foot flat bed sewing machine, but I can stitch this part by hand to exercise putting all together. Best regards, Ramona

Thank you Brian, very helpful info! I hope I can make a tool bag myself some day. I cannot figure out how the round ends (gussets) are attached to the rest of the bag.

Hi Brian, very nice work: love the tool bag! How do you stitch the binding cord edge? (what kind of attachment do you use for the sewing machine?). What type of cord and lining do you use? Thank you!

I've found some instructions searching the web (on: how to remove mink oil from boots) but I've never tested this steps: http://www.ehow.com/how_12069666_remove-mink-oil-boots.html

I think you need other boots ***just kidding*** What kind of leather is that? Different dyes works with different leathers because of the chemicals from the tanning process.

I think if you wrap it in plastic and scotch tape it will be fine. I do that (I use it for phone cases). Just make sure it does not have very sharp edges. (round the corners a bit)

no problem. it is super okay once you get used to it.

Hi. I think there are better chances someone will reply faster if you post this question under Fabrication / Leather sewing machines section of the forum.

Anyone knows this technique in the next video at minute 1:42 ? Is he using wax and a burnisher? Thanks!

I share the same opinion: consider buying leather already dyed if you don't have tooling on the project and you need to use a large area of leather. (Unless you want many shades of the color).

I don't know either if it is the best solution: I am using Fiebing's Aussie conditioner for the flesh side of the leather, buff the excess: it is like a water resistant finish, makes the leather flexible.

I liked the video too, thanks for sharing! Do you buff the leather when dry after each step? I usually do. I use antique over all, not only on the tooled areas. I don't always use dye outside of the tooled area, but maybe is a good idea, because the dye goes deeper and it is better than just antiquing.

Thank you very much for all your help!

Hi everyone! I do leathercraft as a hobby and I work mostly with veg tan leather. I find this forum very useful, I thank all of you posting answers here and sharing your knowledge and thoughts! I recently acquired my first walking foot leather sewing machine (a Dürkopp 239-525) in used but good condition. It has an AC clutch motor and we've set it up to run through a Yaskawa frequency converter (well...my husband did). It came with only one feet - left toe outer foot and I was wondering what other accessories I might need (different feet and guides...). What accessories do you guys find the most helpful for walking foot leather sewing machines? What do you use the most? In what circumstances? Thanks a lot!

okay thanks!

Hi, Can you tell me please: do you have to send them the design (what file format?) or just a sketched idea and they will design the stamp for you? I also need a stamp with a small logo (I made the vector using Inkscape). Thank you.

I am thinking about a cheaper version for a press that could be adapted from a hydraulic jack.

A few years ago I bought my first Basic Tooling Set from 'Hobby Lobby' using a 40% off coupon. Those were actually 'Silver Creek Leather' brand stamps made in U.S. or Japan and very good quality. I also use 'Hide Crafter' and 'Barry King' (Sheridan) and a few Tandy leather stamps.

Thank you! I didn't know those websites and both seem really good. (I was hoping one of the two companies was closer to Dortmund so I can choose the leather before I buy and to save on shipping costs but I am not that lucky ) I hope I can make it to Austria in September. I saw Rene's work and it's amazing.

Hi Vana, very nice work! May I ask where from do you buy your veg tan leather here in Germany? I temporary live in Dortmund-Germany but I understand only a little bit German. I want to attend to a Rene Berends workshop too. I think your English it's pretty good, but if you want to practice conversational English there is Internations.org website where you can connect with expats-usually people working for multinational companies and also locals, attend to fun events in the main cities around here. It did help us accommodate and practice our German. Cheers, Gigi

I think it's safer to test all this steps first on a small piece of leather from the same hide/batch; let it dry completely between steps. Buff the leather. The results also varies depending on the tanning process and quality of the leather. I also have a question: what finish it's recommended for the flash side of the leather?