gigi

Nice machine and nice looking bag! About the old skiver: if you decide to sell it please let me know: a noisy clutch doesn't bother me since I don't have any skiver

You can also try Renia top-fit (German brand) A very useful topic:

What helped in my case (Pfaff 335-17B H2L old casting) improving stitch length with about 1 mm: we made an adjustment changing the setting of the lift of the inner walking foot (noticed it was not lifting properly) But maybe mine had this problem and it's a particular case. Anyway I think it is better to check the entire machine timing because other adjustments could be out as well. Didn't yet remove the plate behind the stitch adjustment lever.

Thanks! Pedal provides variable voltage 0-10V, 10mA max to the VFD.

Finally we managed to have a potentiometer pedal, using scrap material around the home. It is not the best but it serves the purpose. There is plenty of room for improvement. . The control of the machine is much better now. Locked the clutch on engaged position and now the motor is permanently connected to the machine. (The VFD is stopping the motor; after that motor is turning freely). Second video shows the setup is working also with veg-tan leather 7 mm with 138 thread (20 metric). (It's just a test: the machine is not a heavy duty subclass.)

You are right. My problem is: I have only one phase 220V power available and I'm using the inverter to get 3ph 220V power for the motor. Also I'l use the same setup for 3 different finishing wheels and brushes and those may require different rpm and the inverter will help.

Thanks! I'll go with 4 mm. Will make one out of cocobolo wood, and use a frequency inverter for speed control.

How deep those grooves in the cocobolo wood burnisher should be? About 1/8''?

I'm using a Drill Machine and drill a hole in the middle of the snap to drill out the upper part. The drill bit should be a bit larger in diameter than the hole where the snap is installed. Don't use too much pressure or high speed: it can burn the leather. There are also special pliers to cut/remove the pin.

Good luck finding a speed reducer for this motor! Now seriously: I want to make a DIY finishing/buffing/polishing/burnishing/sanding machine too using probably also a VFD since some wheels or brushes require a different speed than the others.

Thank you for the suggestions! We thought about the floor pedal too (adding this after replacing the clutch motor with a regular one): just need to find a pedal with the proper resistance. Also would like to keep this solution under a certain cost, otherwise would be more economical to buy a servo.

Sticks's fault: he asked for photos ***kidding***. I will edit the post and remove the photos. You have them on email.

So far didn't find a pedal with the exact parameters we need (2200 Ohm). So it might require modifying one.

Thank you for the idea! We need to find a potentiometer with low amplitude movement to work with the pedal or a magnetic sensor. My husband did the rewiring. First he read the manual to see how the connections should be made (they may differ from other inverters).

Currently I have this setup: the original old 0,24 kW clutch motor at 1400 RPM, a small motor pulley (40 mm from https://www.college-sewing.co.uk). Motor is controlled by a 0,75 kW Yaskawa V1000 frequency inverter drive bought in used condition from eBay (about 50 bucks). Speed is preset with a potentiometer knob, clutch is engaged and disengaged by original machine pedal. Advantage: you have good torque from 0 to 1400 RPM. Also not a lot of changes to original setup. Works even for veg-tan leather, at least 6-7 mm. I have 2 machines with the same type of setup: a Pfaff 335 and a Durkopp 239-525. I am working to develop a potentiometer pedal and replace the clutch motor with regular motor to vary the speed easier, without having to stop (even though I can manage to turn the potentiometer knob while sewing). Just a different setup...

Thank you so much: good idea! Mine is a 'RODI 50/SL Rafflenbeul Lederschärfmaschine' bought from Germany, will ask those guys also. Looks very much like Landis knives.

Thank you, those are for different machines I think. But I will check with CS, maybe they have some. I am looking for something like this:

Any luck finding a round knife for this machine? I am also looking for a round knife. Thanks!

I was told this is useful tool for shoe repairers for cutting the excess of a sole when resoling boots and the skiver part is good for the heavy leather glued on the sole. If you are interested PM me: I bought it for leatherwork but seems is not good for that (the teeth marks the leather). Where are you located?

Hey does anybody know a good quality pattern making software? I mean one for leather handbags and purses made from leather (chrome or soft leather in general). I've seen an Italian software once, included libraries for accessories/hardware, lining etc. and some templates and color options but I don't remember how it was called. I think it shows the 3D model and calculates the material requirements and nesting.

Thank you very much for the useful information!

Thank you, Enjoy your dinner!

Right! Sorry, typing mistake: forgot the 'NOT' . Here is a photo - the lining is glued and stitched, but I was wondering if this will hold in time: the edge does remain glued: (if it was better to fold the lining edges inside before sewing).

Thank you Brian: very helpful as always! I was wondering how can I make a lining for belts that does come off at the edges.

wow: amazing work both of you! What kind of glue /glueing method do you guys use? noticed the lining is not always sewn.