gigi

Also using Titanium coated needles might help: (Groz-Beckert GEBEDUR LR or Schmetz LR TN). I'm using mostly Gebedur and I'm very happy with those.

I worked with Tandy safety beveler for skiving veg-tanned leather edge and it performed great! But I only use the original replacement blades - they don't last very long (don't think it works with razor blades, tried once). Some people use a little leather plane, or a paring knife, or paring device, depends what you need to do.

Thanks @alexitbe! Kudos to @Constabulary!!

I think his username is: 'arbalet12'

Ah: At first I thought it was a creaser but I've noticed what seemed a cutting edge...

Well done!! What kind of knife is that?

Thanks a lot for sharing!!!

Very useful, thanks for sharing!!

The degreaser did the trick! OMG I haven't noticed: good eye, Brian!

Beautiful: very nice, good design, well done!! Love the color

Found this video: maybe a degreaser would work, though I've never tried (I wonder if corn starch would act the same way, but should test it first):

BTW: where is he? Haven't seen him around in a while.

Thank you everyone for your kind words! Yes, roller presser foot and a new feed wheel are next

'Make Textima Gray Again!'

Very nice design!

After receiving the machine we set it up with a table. Mounted the main shaft and the clutch motor. To adapt the clutch motor we used a bearing, a straight-bore pulley for V-belt and an elastic ring. The bearing is used here to isolate the rotating movement from the hub. Luckily the DDR guys used standard parts for the machine and we were able to fit the bearing. My husband set up a VFD to control the motor for the household power. This allows me to vary the speed of the whole thing: VFD sets the motor RPM and the clutch engages/disengages the machine to/from the motor. After about 2 months from purchasing we were able to make the first test: machine worked! I was not sure I would be able to control the leather feeding speed but there doesn't seem to be a problem. Next we needed to modify the machine a bit in order to accommodate the presser feet available on the market. We made another presser foot spring (photo). I've replaced the foot with an wider one used for skiving and splitting. Basic adjustments are the same like any other skiver: the same principles. This is a video of some skiving using the old bell knife and feed wheel. The noise comes from the straight-cut gears. Meanwhile noise level improved: we moved the gears a bit. (maybe in the future we will use a special grease to improve noise level even more):

Couldn't resist buying this 'boat anchor' for the price of a piece of leather. Made probably in the 50's in former East Germany - Textima was an old brand of machinery, related to CLAES brand, part of VEB Textima Co. LW users helping with this project directly or indirectly: - @Constabulary - who did most of the work: all the mechanical restoration. @RockyAussie and @Trox - very helpful tips along the way. Also @CampbellRandall (Dan) - very helpful videos regarding skiving. Thanks a lot!! The machine was badly rusted as you can see in the pictures (in the left is an original photo from the ad, before restoration). Couldn't find any documentation, didn't know if it's complete, if we can find parts for it, or if this thing will work again. But definitely looked very robust and seemed it was worth restoring. It is a bit different from other modern skivers: all the active parts (bell knife, feed wheel, sharpening wheel) are moving together with a ratio established by the gears (feed wheel moves slower). They all start/stop moving when the clutch is engaged/disengaged by the pedal. Machine is ALL gear driven (no belts inside) and the original clutch was on the outside. Found out: the old, heavy, wide-belt external clutch needed to be replaced with an external clutch motor. Only one part was missing: the feed wheel drive-rod (and a cover). We ordered the missing rod but realized it was too short, so Constabulary adjusted this by cutting, gluing and pinning on a tube (photo). Machine needed to be stripped to the last screw, every single bit was taking care of. That included: electrolysis bath to break some parts loose, de-rusting, hammering some parts out, heating them with a torch etc. Many components were all gummed up. Original paint was very thick, pretty difficult to remove. Following was the painting and partial assembly, greasing, shipping.

Thank you for releasing another great video for the community! We've learned a lot about timing from your videos.

I don't own this machine model, but I was just thinking there might be a 'play' between parts. How old is the machine? What was the stitch length lever position when you did the timing? I would try to set it in the middle when I do the timing to see if it solves the problem.

Just an opinion: Hook might be a little bit behind, timing-wise.

I see - I would contact Amy Roke to let them know. They advertise this as: 'New waxed polyester thread with smoother touchiness and glossiness.'... Maybe you can return them.

Lining or you can also try some beeswax finish since it comes in contact to your skin.

Hi Adam: I have no idea about Amy Roke Polyester thread but have you considered making a groove or a crease for the stitching (front and back)? If the stitches are recessed maybe thread will last longer.

Thanks a lot, great idea: I'll use a steel ruler. Takes too long to order the original part. Noticed that, I mainly care about the function also. Have you thought about patenting some inventions?

Thanks for the idea Brian, I need a spring like this for the skiver's presser-foot. Just need to find the right material.