harrington

Probably too late to change your front design, but an apron front with a wrap and tie back belt makes a pair of step ins much easier to put on. Stepping into a pair that are solid on the back belt are difficult to get pulled up right without bunching your pants. If you are fine with the laced back belt, maybe use a heavier lace in the front to lace through two sewn holes and tie a square knot or bow.

That will work, my email address is: tharrington@montrose.net thanks, Tom

Do you use PayPal or how would you prefer payment?

Same saddle with the seat put in for the first time. It will have an inlaid padded seat, which is the extra piece seen under the drawdown strap. It will form the base of the inlay "pillow" which was expertly described on the forum by Keith Seidel.

I have been slowly working on it. I have the fork cover, horn cover, cantle back and filler, skirts blocked and plugged and have slicked and stretched the stirrup leathers. Working on fitting the back jockeys and the seat next. Hope to have it done by the end of October, will post some new pics later. thanks for looking, Tom

The all lather ground seat is covered well in the Al Stohlman encyclopedia series. They are a must have for a new maker with no other help resource.

You might try Timberline Tree Co in Utah. They make a custom, quality tree that is reasonably priced.

I can't believe I forgot about Custom Cowboy Shop, we used to live an hour east of Sheridan, and never missed a chance to stop and visit with Don. His shop is a must see. Might also check out the Bradford Brinton Museum near Bighorn and Story. Just ask them at King's or Butler's about things to see.

Definitely check out Kings Saddlery store and museum, Sheridan Leather Outfitters, Tom Balding Bits and Spurs, Bighorn Mountains, Don King Days is in September; polo, steer roping and match bronc riding. Sheridan is a very cool town. If you go in May, you can attend the best leather show on earth.

I took my original pattern from Stohlman's books, then fine-tuned from there to make it fit the tree and Watt hardware at 7/8 position. Thanks for looking.

Finished the all leather ground seat and put on the rigging plates today. It's on a Timberline Ray Hunt Wade tree, Watt hardware and Hermann Oak skirting. Will be a good, basic, rough-out cowboy saddle when done.

Thanks for the reply, Steve. Do you have any pictures of the lined edge of your hand hole. I'm not clear on how you glue or sew that piece of 3-4 oz. to make a nice finished edge to and bottom. thanks, Tom Buck,If you want use dextrine on the cover piece,it will get harder then.Sometimes i sew all the groundseat togather on the back side of the hand hole,won't ever move then. Steve Take a piece of 3 4 oz. strap and cover the cut out up to where your fork cover tucks under the gullet

A little different question, I've heard of saddlers using ?-cord linen thread to hand sew cantles and horns. Anyone know what size would be comparable to 346 poly thread? thanks, Tom

I like the way this method insures a smooth seat pulled down without using plugs. I have a question about what you do to line the exposed edge of the handhole after it is cut out though. The method I have been using involves a jig with the first ground seat piece having a soft leather cover sewn on which is pulled over the edge after all pieces are installed and shaped. thanks, Tom

I am traveling to Boise next week and wondered if anyone knows of any saddle shops in or near there? thanks, Tom

Bob Douglas makes a 3 piece set for each of the rivet sizes, you can call them at 307-737-2222. About two years ago, I purchased a set of copper rivet setting tools. I would like to purchase another set for #9. They are a set of three piece tools, one to set the burr, one to round the burr end and a cap rounder. What I am trying to find out if anyone knows of the company or person that makes these sets. I can't find who I bought them from. They were advertising in one of the trade magazines, but I can't find the ad or info on who they are. Any help? I have the combo tool for doing #9s, but it doesn't let me set the burr on the long rivets. Thanks. Mike

I would like to buy your Jeremiah Watt saddlemaking DVD series. Are they in good shape without scratches and skips? If you are like me, they have probably been watched many hours. thanks, Tom Harrington

Anyone out there have a #3 and #4 edgers of Ron's for sale? Thanks, Tom