spurdude101

I keep hearing in different vidoes that Fiebings Pro Dye is an oil dye like Fiebings Pro Oil Dye. They just changed the name. However when you look at the details when ordering it says it is an alcohol based dye. Fiebings Leather Dye is alcohol based dye. so what's the difference? Is the Pro Dye an oil dye or not? Will it dry out the leather like the leather dye does?

I want to make some tool bags. looks like factory bags sew inside out then pull them outside in. this doesn't look very easy as some pockets are small. anyone have any ideas on how to do it? thanks. I want my project to look professional.

I have a 2972 typical, basically the same machine. get yourself some oxygen tubing. the clear 1/8 id slip it over the teeth and clip it off. it works great. you'll lose just a tiny amount of lift, but for 4-5 oz. it will be good.

presser foot cure! find some oxygen tubing. the 1/8 inch clear tubing old folks use when on oxygen, cut a small section make a small slit on one side half way along the length so it can slide past the presser foot upright and glue on the foot. no more ugly marks on the leather.

I'm not Mike, but I line my holsters with goat skin or the lightest calf skin I can find. it's a bit tricky to work with especially if you have a bend in the holster like a western style. a two piece holster sewn together is easier .

Tandy sells a spray can called Leather Sheen. Sprays on nice does not run is semi gloss, is flexible. not cheap about $15.00 a can but does a great job. no more streaks or uneven dye.

just curious, how did you redye the pocket and still keep the stitching bright white?

I always worry about this, so I mold first let dry overnight then assemble glue, then dye, sew last, trim excess , finish edges

Pre dyed, I don't know. if you used an alcohol based dye then it is the dye drying out the leather. use lots of neetsfoot oil first and maybe even some water to loosen up leather before you bend. as for now all you can do is use some oil and try to conceal the damage.

When case my veg tan leather it smells so nice. but by the time I case several times then dye, finish and polish, the piece looks great but the leather smell is gone and it smells like chemicals and glue! what to do to keep that great smell?

the best way I have found is on belts holsters and such. I dye the leather first, then rub a very wettish bar of Glycerin saddle soap pressing hard to mat the fibers. polish it smooth with brown paper bag. let it dry then top it off with leather sheen spay. If I have a very bad cut of leather with long fibers, I'll use an open flame and singe being careful not to burn the good leather

thanks for the info, I'll call Bob about the spring. I guess sewing machines are just a necessary evil that make trades you have to live with. one trick I do is to put a small rubber tube, like an oxygen type tube on the presser foot. this keeps the marks from happening. Sometimes I'll see some leather piece that is sewn and wonder "how'd they do that without leaving a mark or crushing the tooling?" guess a lot to learn yet. UWE made me laugh when I read that weight lifting thing!

Can you adjust the pressure of the walking foot itself? I know the presser foot is adjustable but sometimes when sewing 6-90z vegtan the walking foot leaves deep marks in the leather. especially if it is a little damp from casing. any ideas?

I have a few questions on heavy stitchers. Is it safe to say that the Cobra 4 and the Cowboy CB4500 are the same machine? I know both fine men who own these respective companies are on this site, so not looking to pitch one against the other, just looking for comparisons.

thanks, In theory I suppose you are right. however I have not had too much problems with that happening. As it is the only machine I have I sew all kinds of things on it. sometimes you have to watch and take your time.

can anyone tell me if they make a welting foot for sewing piping on upholstery for shoe patcher model 29 family?

I was wondering, can you use harness leather for a western style gun rig because of its color and quality of oils for outdoor use, or stick with the veg tan? thanks

https://fscimage.fishersci.com/msds/97885.htm I guess we should all be dead!

I imagine with dissolved metal it is toxic to point. anyone know how toxic? how can it be disposed of properly? I'm not sure I want to dump it down the drain..i'm on a septic system .

well Ok.. I'll answer my own question and help you leather heads out some. i found a product in a custom shoe store. Lincolns E-Z cleaner. Says it'll safely clean Suede, leather, buck, nu-buck, vinyl, linen, canvas, nylon, satin.. does not mention rawhide. it is a liquid, 8oz. for $6.00. I put some on a piece of sheep and rubbed in on. it will lather up some then I rubbed it off with a terry towel. It took some elbow grease but it brought the rawhide stirrups back to almost new and the horn was very bright. all in all i am very happy with the results. did not harm the raw hide at all.

I saw a thread on this a while back but darn if I can find it. I have a billy cook saddle with a braided rawhide horn that at one time was white. it is rather dirty. is there a product or technique that can restore it to it's original beauty?

I would not put leather inside the case where it would contact the gun, unless it is for only a short time. Veg tan would be best, never chrome tanned as the chrome salts will affect the finish of the gun. Even letting a gun stay in a holster for long storage is a bad idea. Metal and leather just do not mix well over time. the one exception is if the gun is stainless steel. I would put the leather on the outside and felt or wool shearling on the inside.

thanks...we'll do..

I was wanting to try the vinegroon, but the only vinegar I can find is diluted to 5 % with water. Is this the right stuff?

thanks, I did not know to thin it. I'll give it a try.