evandailey

Get yourself any one of the many silicone baking pads available. No risk of heat marking or even simply the grating bars pressing into the wet leather like a tooling impression.

That stitching looks nice! I've got to ask what needle point type, presser foot combination, thread weight, process after stitching are you using? I just bought my first machine (a used Adler 205 clone) a month or so ago and am not getting nearly that nice looking of a stitch on the back, and my stitches are all straight and not nicely angled like yours, as in mine are - - - - - not /////. I've always handsewn everything and much prefer the angled stitches but didn't think that was possible with a machine.

Please tell me you're not hand sewing these?

The only success I've ever had at ANY auction was either if I found or was after some item that was out of place relative to the other items at the auction, like a piece of farm equipment at a household auction, or if the auction was simply poorly advertised. Anytime I've been to one like the Weaver one, which I've not bothered to go to even though it's not that far away, where everyone there is after the same stuff it seems like stupid is highly infectious and people stop using their brains when they start bidding. Gun auctions are the WORST.

I use this knife for 90% of my cutting and have yet to see any reason it isn't sufficient. I strop the blades on a leather belt on a power sander and it cuts leather like butter. It has enough point for all but the very tightest curves. Damage the tip? Just pop off a section and you're good as new. Blades are cheap to replace. You can extend the blade out and do some pretty wide skiving as well. I have a good quality, sharp round knife and do use it for some things, but I've been cutting on the pull stroke for too long for cutting on the push stoke to feel natural. http://www.amazon.com/5004-Rubber-Inset-Heavy-Duty-Utility/dp/B000LEAQ7C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1371755690&sr=8-5&keywords=Olfa

What is the vinyl for if you bought a seperate vacuum bag? I first thought you weant you made your own vacuum bag then I was confused. And where did you find a vacuum bag for $15? All of the ones I have looked at that sound very durable are closer to $80. I already have the pump, but the bag cost has kept me from experimenting thus far.

So how are you keeping dye from coloring your stitching if you dye last?

Dwight, what do you mean by "curved"?

When I do them I use the same process as your "normal" procedure. NF Oil, then 50/50 Mop-N-Glo. It's done fine for me.

I think they're probably giving them as thank you gifts to the groomsmen. I bought my guys knives.

I've got the treadle stand and a 29-4 that needs work that I'd sell if you're interested. When I bought it I thought, like you, I'd fix it up myself as I enjoy the tinkering also. However I simply do not have the time to fool with it with all the other things I have going on. I'm most of the way across the country from you, but Cowboy Bob pointed me toward a great economical shipping option through Fastenal stores.

Thank you so much Bob for this recommendation. Fastenal will ship it for $200. It takes a little longer to get here through them, but I'll wait a week to save $3-400!

This is intriguing. There are Fastenal's very close. Did you just ask them to use their account with a carrier, or do they ship as a service? Also do you find it necessary to enclose the machine in a crate, or is it sufficient to remove the head from the table and secure it all to a pallet? I don't know how carefull LTL Freight carriers are. I know a crate is best, but it also adds weight and size.

Can anyone make any recommendations on the best way to go about having a used cylinder arm machine and stand shipped approximately 1000 miles? I am trying to buy a used one from a forum member that had posted in the classified section. He is going to crate it up, but neither of us know anything about freight shipping. I did some quick calling around today and was getting quotes like $550! I knew shipping would not be cheap, but I was expecting more like $200. Is this an unrealistic expectation? The seller is willing to take it to a shipping hub and I am willing to go to one to pick it up. I told the company I spoke with this, but still got the huge numbers. One girl on the phone acted as if the fact that it was a sewing machine put it in some higher price class. Does it really matter what's in the crate (beyond the obvious hazardous and liquid restrictions)? I filled out a quote request on uship.com and got a quote of $183 which is perfectly reasonable and it's from a reputable carrier who's depot is not far from me. However, the only shipping category available to choose that a sewing machine seemed to fit under was "Business and Industrial Goods". I don't want to rely on these numbers if when the seller takes it to a carrier and says it's a sewing machine that the price goes back to $500. Any suggestions are welcomed. I really want to make this deal work as its exactly what I've been looking for for quite a while. But I won't pay nearly half the cost of the machine to ship it.

How are most of you that do flat backs moulding your front piece? Vacuum bag, press and rubber pads, etc?

I don't think the ones I linked are the ones I have, because mine are palm sized like yours. I just couldn't find the ones I have listed online. They are the orange handles bulk bin pliers usually below all the models hanging on hooks. They're pretty small. My point was that I like the bent jaws so that I can "pull" needles either direction with my right hand only.

I mostly try to coat the pads of my index fingers and thumb with my stitching wax/rosin mix which makes my grip very tacky to grab the needles. But when I need a little more grip I use a smooth jaw pair like these http://www.harborfreight.com/4-3-4-quarter-inch-bent-needle-nose-pliers-40698.html that HF usually has in a bulk bin for $0.99 (orange handles). I think they are smaller than the ones in the link. The bent jaws let me reach over the top and grab a needle with the pliers using my strong hand. At that point I'm pushing instead of pulling, but I don't have to constantly swap hands with the pliers.

look up the Diamond D "Guides Choice" model. Nearly everyone on the Alaska shooting forum that carry X frame Smiths prefer it over any other holster. I've made/make a derivation of this style and it is by far the best hunting rig I have ever used.

Do you hand or machine stitch? Extremely neat work either way!

Will that leather wet mould at all? Not for holsters necessarily, though I'm curious about that too, but I make a wallet design that needs to be able to stratch to hold several credit cards.

Agreed! I use the same and feel it's one of the best power tool deals on the market in any category!

I too have watched many of your videos and am thankful for your generosity. I've always wanted to make a whip and may one day try to tackle one after watching your tutorials. Boy that's a lot of lace making though!!!

220 seems to be about the best balance for me. Much finer and they tend to burn. Much coarser and the edge is not very smooth.

I don't know about the motor, but I have this same sander and see no reason why it would ever need to be slowed down for leather work. It's the best deal going for a spindle sander in my opinion.

I can't tell exactly from the pictures, but are those holes on top of the pillow blocks perhaps for grease zerks? They may be set screws or something else. That just looked like where grease zerks would go.