evandailey

Your work looks fantastic as always. I'm curious why you didn't sandwich the T-nuts between the layers though??

I've got a 29-4 complete with treadle that I bought to restore, but I never got around too it. I'd part with it if you're interested. I'm in western WV.

How exactly do you figure that Mop n Glo liquid acrylic is different than Resolene liquid acrylic? Just because one is marketed differently than the other doesn't mean the chemistry is not basically the same. I see this all the time in somewhat specialized hobbies/trades, i.e leather work, wood work, shooting, etc. People tend to only focus on the suppliers of products marketed to the discipline they're engaged in, often not realizing that the exact same products, or products that do the same thing, are sometimes used for other disciplines or purposes and can occasionally be found at fractional prices to the specialized suppliers. I'm just speculating here, but it would not surprise me if at some chemical plant somewhere they produced a big vat of liquid acrylic and sat around saying "We could sell this stuff as floor finish but people are only going to pay $4/qt. for that, but if we take some of it and label it leather finish, people will pay $25/qt. for it." I'm not saying the stuff comes from the same place, I have no idea. But I'm highly suspect that there is some significant difference between the two.

The can says to clean up with Xylene so I presume that is the solvent base. I haven't tried thinning it though and the can does not mention thinning.

Soap and water is all that is usually recommended for diamond hone sharpening. If you're worried about rust just give the blade a wipe with a little WD-40 sprayed on a cloth. A very light coat is all you need.

They have the same Herman Oak as Springfield but I think they list theirs as "Tannery Run" which when I was in their show room they told me that meant you might get an A grade piece or a B Grade piece. I have picked mine out in person twice and mail ordered once. All three sides were very good. The Herman Oak Bridle Leather (not the English Bridle) was some REALLY nice stuff too and would make nice holsters if you're willing to buy a whole side dyed one color.

I saw this picture of what appears to be a hand forged round knife in an ebay listing for a leather bag. The bag was from a Chinese shop so the knife may be Asian. I just like the looks of it and was curious if anyone had ever seen one for sale.

I use their Leather Dressing. The pine smell does fade.

I frequently use Montana Pitch Blend as my final finish. It is a wax, oil, pitch combination. It is as good of a waterproofer as the 50/50 acrylic. It is easy to apply by just rubbing it in at room temperature.

I'm also curious as to your process for getting that perfectly even color in your molded pieces after them being wet and molded. You do some nice work.

Heck, I'd like to know how you are doing YOUR molding, let alone theirs. Care to share your technique?

I'm not nearly as experienced as Mike or Dwight, but I have noticed that a lot of makers build in some curve to the holster to theoretically help it conform to the waist. But when you pre-curve that rear flap on an avenger or pancake, you are actually removing the holsters ability to pull the but of the gun in. I like for mine to be molded and dried as flat as possible (as shown in Dwight's second picture), so when the belt goes in, it pulls the butt of the gun back to the body. It may not be as comfortable, at least initially, but it will conceal better.

I finally decided to bite the bullet and buy a spool of the real Barbours Linen from Campbell Bosworth. It was a bit pricey at about $50 but it is a huge spool and will likely last me many years. It is much better thread than any of the other pre-waxed linen small spools I had bought.

I have started using Montana Pitch Blend conditioner almost exclusively for my final finish after reading on here where several people recommended it and I can't imagine finding a better product. It is all natural which was important to me as well. I have to order it directly from them, but you may be able to find it locally depending on where you live.

I've been using mine as purchased for nearly a year and haven't done anything more than strop them maybe a half dozen times. I don't know how they could cut any better.

I have two of the Weaver Master Series ones and they are great. I have #1 and #2 and use the #2 most often but am probably going to add a #3 very soon for edges of four layered holsters.

Weaver is wholsale only and a $250 min on your first order but after that there is no minimum. I have had good results from them.

They only sell Herman Oak and Chahin plus some cheaper stuff. It is definitely worth a trip if you're that close. The leather room is staggering. I drive four hours a couple of times a year to go.

Grainger or MSC are also good sources. I use mostly 6-32's but I have 8-32's also.

I have that one as well. I use it for some things still, but with the Ridgid Oscillating belt and spindles I use the craftsman much less. I do think that 2x42 Craftsman is a very good deal for what it costs.

I absolutely love my Ridgid Oscillating sander. In my opinion it is the best one on the market because of the fact that it has the 4x24 belt attachment as well as the lifetime warranty. You still get a little "flap" sometimes but it is lessened.

Thanks TwinOaks. That's what I did but I didn't know if someone had a source for shorter shanked ones.

How do you guys account for the shank length being too long when sandwiching between two layers of leather. I know may people just clip the prongs but what about the threaded tube?

That's pretty much like the one Weaver Leather sells for their 441 clone.

I don't know how long ago you contacted Weaver, but they will sell to anyone with a business license, not matter how small. They have a $250 minimum on your first order, but after that there is no min. I buy from them often, and I assure you I do nowhere near $10,000.00 per year. I have found them to be great to deal with.