Driften

That is a very nice looking holster. It looks a lot like the pattern I made to try out. It seems from this thread people have done well with leather weights all over the map from 4oz to 9oz. I cut my pattern from 8-9oz HO veg tan, but when I put it in my pocket it seemed like it would be too stiff, but I did not actually assemble it. I still have not decided on what to order.. You guys have been a help!

If it works for your Colt it sure would work for a S&W Airweight... Thanks Dwight

I want to make a pocket holster for my S&W J-Frame 637. All I have is some 8/9oz that I have used for belt holsters and that is too thick and stiff for this use. Before I order I wanted to get an idea of what would be right. Maybe a 5/6oz? I was thinking something like a Del Fatti/Milt Sparks style pocket holster. I have a pattern worked up for that. I may also experiment with a Kramer style where its just wrapped around the gun.

The pinned thread at the top of this board (cowboy holster tutorial) should be most of what you would need. Also check out the videos from Chuck Burrows on making frontier holsters. As for the type of holster for SASS/CAS I also started with a strong hand and a cross draw and I think a better way to go is with a right and left strong hand holster. If you get the shooting videos from Evil Roy he shows the best way of running them. Its easer to use and you don't have to turn your body to keep the muzzle on the cross draw down range when drawing. Its also faster... Good Luck

Excellent work! You really pushed it over the top. I really like the design and work you did.

For those with this question in the future, I was able to grove and mark the stitching just like cowhide. It was a little harder to see and it seemed to need to be a little wetter but it all worked fine.

One thing to understand also is that its not just the size but the shape. For example some 9mm single stack magazines have a rounded front and some are square on the front. So a Sig P239 9mm (round front) magazine and a Walther PPS 9mm (square front) magazine will not fit the same holder even though they are about the same size. So it seems that for some cases you will need to form off the correct magazine not just the right size. I do know that some magazines will interchange. I think HK P7PSP 9mm mags fit the same as the P239. If I remember correctly Walther P99 fit the same as Sig P226 9mm.

I glued some shark skin to some 4/5oz leather to use for an accent/stiffener on a IWB holster. Do you put in a stitching grove and use the overstitch wheel the same as if it was just veggie tanned leather? Or does that mess up the shark layer... This is my first time working with shark and would like to know what the process is... I know I could just waste some of the skin to find out but sometimes its best to learn from the experts! One other question are there any tips about final finish on the shark parts or just treat it like the rest of the leather?

I wonder if the Beretta Vertec would work it looks like the 92A1 with a different grip. Maybe put up a post on the berettaforum.net about them being compatible for holsters. If so you can get a blue gun for the vertec.

From the pictures the stamping seems to work and look great.

Most of the sales have been for semi-auto rifles. I don't think many of those will need holsters. For the extra handgun sales those people are tending to be new owners that will be new holster customers. I don't expect they are going to show much more demand then what was already going on over the last couple of years with the bigger CCW market. I don't expect major leather shortages.... but who knows.

Thanks Paul for clueing me in on Holstering/Plating.

What does is this mean "I ordered my WC holstered as well"? What do they do to the leather to sell it "holstered" and why is it good?

Thanks Dickf.... Yes the leather was real cheep tandy 8-9oz that was on special for $20 for a 5-7sq/ft shoulder and while it was good for practice/prototype/work out the pattern stuff it other wise was not very good. The Glock Pancake holster does expose the magazine release from both sides, but the PPK as you noted does not. The problem with the PPK is the magazine release is up next to the slide but is low profile. Its not likely to get hit by the holster and release the magazine. It could be done though, I would need to do a lot of reshaping to bring the curve of the top in about 1/2". On right hand holsters that is on the back side. It might affect where the front belt loop sits.... Thanks I will give it some thought. My Walther PPS holster has paddle magazine releases that should be covered for most people and that is easier

Actually I have a set and used the on the first holster. The pancake was done from a SLC pattern but expect future pancake holsters are from my own drawn plans. On the other thread you can see my PPS avenger holster that also had some french curve touches but I will take it in mind for my future ones!

No but it uses a seperate belt loop that looks like this: So I guess its has three screws on the back for it

I would not expect the 1911 in the avenger style holster to sit well on the belt. Normally it needs the belt loops to position belt across the trigger guard for it to balance right. Even for match use you would not want it "loose as a goose" as things wear in its not going to get tighter and a gun coming out of the holster while running or dropping prone is not going to go over well. That does not mean it needs to be so tight its hard to draw. The holsters I have done so far will hold the gun with the holster turned upside down but its a smooth easy draw that feels almost like drawing from kydex. For action shooting maybe you should think of more of a pouch style holster then an avenger. Check the rules for which "action shooting sport" for holsters since IDPA is different from IPSC/USPAS for what they allow. Maybe something more like this picture from Wilson Tactical

Lori, holsters are normally made from veggie tanned leather not latigo. With out knowing which style of vertical shoulder holster you are making it hard to help more. You should also start a topic just on this question for more help...

I was just wondering the same thing....

I used it and it worked nice. I did not do anything special in buffing or finishing. Its been stable and does not rub off badly like some black dyes. You can see it on this holster... be advised that it is the first holster I have made.

That is a great holster and extra impressive that its your second one. Good Work!

That is an excellent gun case.

Thanks Josh your stitching comments seem right. One issue I had was I needed at least one or two more stitches at the top of the second belt loop to make sure its going to not open under pressure. Looking again at the pictures I don't know why I could not have run more stitches just over the top of that belt loop. I think you might be right about that corner looking better rounded.

Very nice work

Thanks Haystacker.... Anybody else have some constructive comments for me?