philippe

Yes the first stitch joins the panels, the second goes through all three and subsequently hides the first stitch. The black leather is just a pebble grain cowhide, the red is calf. It was just random scrap. You may have goat, but generally speaking Goat isn't very heavy. Its usually 4oz or or less. That's not a rule, just what i've normally seen.

Not sure if this will help you or not, but when I'm joining panels and need strength, I do a method that is is similar to a French seam. It leaves the panels sewn together on top of one another. It can be a little bulky if you don't skive the edges, but depending on the look you're going for its not unacceptable either. Here's a couple pics of an example I just did to show you. This may have already been mentioned. I noticed above in your pictures you did this, but another way to reduce the bulk is putting a groove in where you fold the seam. I know skiving it all manually would not be pleasant but a deep groove shouldn't be that big of a deal.

I haven't posted in some time but thought this was worth it. I have a top and bottom feed skiver, it is excellent for heavy veg-tan, oil tanned leathers, etc as long as they are about 6oz or above. I have ALWAYS had trouble with this machine to skive lighter weight material. I needed it to behave more like a bottom only feed so that so much pressure wasn't being put on the leather and subsequently eating it up. Yes, I have had some limited success with various methods using both feeds, but not consistent. A couple different feed rollers are available, and a single top presser foot is available, but not nearly as many or in a wide variety as the single feed machines. So I finally got around to drawing one in CAD and after about 12 different versions I managed to 3d print one that works perfectly. The final version I printed it solid at the highest resolution available to me. There is no load being placed on it so it didn't matter that it was plastic. The biggest hurdles were just getting the sizing right. Particularly the distance from the shaft to the top edge of the foot. Now that I have this, it can be modified into all types of feet. It did take some sanding and polishing to get it very smooth (which now does not produce any marks on the leather). As a frame, I can add rollers, pins, channels, etc. I included the 3d file if anyone wants to download it for printing or modifying. I did have to remove the drive shaft from behind the top feed so that the gear cog didn't chew into the foot, but its not entirely necessary because I built in clearance to take care of that as well. If you do end up modifying it please let me know as I would like to see any other versions. Thanks. The first picture is of an earlier version before I worked the kinks out, the other pictures are the final version installed on the machine. presser foot v4 v1.stl

You should take a look at pen plotters. Or, more specifically an AxiDraw V3. You can place any type of "pen" that you want in the holder (paint pens, metallic rollerballs, etc) and then place the machine directly onto the jacket itself. It's a very handy tool to have. You upload your design in the software and hit print. If you assign different sections of your design into layers, you can have multi color designs. The only downside is these things are pretty slow (similar to a laser engraver).

These are not parts machines they are all in working order, they have been serviced within the last seven years. Extra needles come with a couple of the machines. Again I am selling this for someone a little less computer savy than I. Thanks for looking

No More machines than those listed, he does have a fur machine with a table lights, motor, etc. But I am not sure he wants to get rid of that one.

Selling some fur machines, singer stitcher, con sew double needle, and a staying or blind stitch machine. The big singer comes with table stand and motor as does the consew. Consew:400 obo Fur machines:300 each firm Blind stitcher:200 obo big Singer:400 obo I have more pics and like I said I'm selling for a friend he has a lot of stuff. I can get you models numbers and better descriptions just didn't want to type it all in with my phone. Thanks for looking

300 Brown lizard skins available as a lot. I will consider serious offers for the lot, kinda tight on cash right now so need to make it up someway. Anyone interested let me know. Again these are being sold as a lot in bundles, I still have others I cam selling individually but obviously you will get the biggest discount by buying the 300 lot. Thanks!!

Dont know if anyone else does this but what I have done on numerous projects, (hats being the primary), is natural beeswax. I will put little clumps of beeswax over stitch holes and openings and then heat them with a lighter to melt the wax evenly. The heat also makes the wax clear (well almost clear). For the whole hat (this will apply to most larger projects) I will put beeswax in a little metal can and place that in a pot of boiling water to melt the wax and then coast the entire piece with a spine and the melted beeswax. The hats or whatever else I'm making is then as waterproof as I need them to be. Just make sure you don't microwave the wax as it will bubble and make a huge mess (cant buy experience). I am sure some people have other ways of waterproofing and will say my method won't work or whatever but so far it works perfect for me. You may need to repeat the process about once a year depending on what conditions the bike is stored and used but it doesn't take a long time to do this and it really works great (for me). Sponge not spine by the way.

I do have larger skins. And i have not shipped out of the country but i am sure i can just not sure how to go about doing it. If you know the process let me know.

I have never shipped to canada but I'm sure I can not really sure whats involved though

I have about 400 lizard skins available now and they are a bit bigger than before. They are still medium brown and dark brown. If anyone is interested let me know $60.00 per

I do not know the name of the knot I was hoping someone else would know specifically what it is my best guess is it is a gaucho knot of two passes (ref. "leather braiding" bruce grant), but it needs to be two tone like in the picture. As far as them being braided on to the lanyards that may not be possible but if they have a leather collar inside then I should be able to slip the lanyard into them after they are made. I do need a rough time estimate and cost associated (rough estimates are fine) with making these. Thanks alot -Philippe

I AM IN need of 100 of these knots to fit lanyards, they will have to fit very tight around two 6mm lanyards, as you can see in the picture. If you need more pics let me know but I will need a rough estimate on price and I need it as soon as possible. Thank you

I am trying to make a two tone turk's head or Gaucho knot but i cant seem to find anywhere on how exactly two colors are incorporated into the design. There are many pictures of them but no instructions. This is an example of what I am talking about, the end knot on the whip how do they get two colors in there? Or am I attempting the wrong knot? Thnk you in advance for any help or instructions or links to instructions.

I find sewing to fast will create so much friction that it causes my thread to break (or melt). When I figured that out I slowed it down and can now complete a belt faster than going full speed and breaking the thread. I too also have a cowboy 4500.

http://springfieldleather.com/29922/Side%2CBridle%2CEnglishTan%2C10-12oz/ Springfield has some natural bridle

Hello all again. First off let me say thank you to all of those that helped me with my skiver problems, I didn't know what I could to thank properly so I made a donation to the site. I have a new problem, I have a cowboy 797 running 92 bonded nylon top and bottom and a 22 needle. It was stitching fine and straight and all of a sudden my stiches are coming out diagonal like: / / / / / / / / not right like: - - - - - - - - - and I don't know what is happening. I have tried all the regular stuff tension, threading, speed, thread twist, needle position but nothing seems to correct the diagonal stiches to sew straight again. I am sure this isn't the first time that these problems have existed but it is the first time for me so any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks- Philippe P.S. I would post some pics but my camera is also on the fritz

I have a cowboy 797. I ordered a speed reducer myself and installed it because it increases torque from the extra weight and the momentum of the wheel spinning. The speed reduces are a little pricey and they're kind of a pain in the butt to install but it definitely helps with the torque going through thicker leathers that I need to sew through on my 797. Just my two cents though. Just remember if you do get a speed reducer again I have to get new belts to go along with it I got mine from auto zone down here because they happen have the right size belts but if the width of the belt is off even a 1/16 of an inch it will affect how it sits inside the pulley and it won't move so smoothly.

Thank you to all of those that helped me. I have since figured out quite a bit in the last few days of turning scrap leather into "skived scrap leather". The main thing I was trying to understand was how to change the thickness of the cut, the instruction book and the shoe school video both say that the stone feed wheel on the bottom need to stay as close to the blade as possible with out it hitting the blade, and to move the actual knife left and right to adjust the thickness of the cut. I have found this is not what works for me. I move the stone wheel up and down to control ho thick my cut will be and I can also change the angle of the stone to adjust the bevel of the cut. The top feed roller will move up and down to adjust for the pressure depending on what type of leather I am using so it will send it through the cut evenly with out catching. I did learn that the sharpening stone does not move with the knife so I have to put it exactly where I want the sharpening stone to touch the knife edge, after I move the blade left and right. moving the blade left and right will compensate for thicker leathers to go through the cut evenly it is directly related to the adjustments used for the top feed roller. Now these processes may not be the "right" way but they are the way that I have found works for me. This machine is somewhat complicated to set up and use but once an initial calibration is made then setting it up for different leathers and such is fairly easy. I will be posting a video on this once I am fully aware of everything on the machine and have a much better understanding of the skiver. I am still trying to figure out how exactly to set it up to use as a splitter for smaller pieces of chrome tan and very soft leathers, as my Landis 30 will not do that unless I glue it to some scrap veg tan first. Again thank you all for helping me.

Its a little dirty from shipping and playing but its a nice machine nonetheless.