Cyberthrasher

Sure. You haven't put a finish on yet have you? If they're just a little off, I would hit them with 400 grit wet/dry. If you need to remove some good material, I like 220. Remember, just like cutting, you can always sand more, but you can't put those little bits back on, so take your time . Get them nice and even and smooth then come back and burnish. I'm really happy you're obsessing on the edge - too many people say "good enough" and ruin an otherwise decent item by puttying out crappy edges. Good edges are only optional if covered in lace!!

Thanks. That's pretty much what I was both hoping/expecting - basically "good luck, but you can try this" The only reason I decided to try it was because my wife bought a new cheap singer that's never worked, so I figured if nothing else she would have a machine to use that's actually got metal in it somewhere.

I've been using Barge, but a lot of people use the contact cement available at Home Depot - I think it's Weldwood or something. But, I would highly suggest stitching or something if you can. You should pretty much always finish before punching any holes and adding hardware. If you punch holes first, then things can bleed onto the backside. If you add hardware before putting your finish coat on, then it's harder to get a coat of finish on all parts.

Thanks!! For cutting, just take your time and cut as close as possible without overcutting. Remember, you can always take more off. When you get as close as you're comfortable with, pull out some sand paper or a belt sander and even up the edge. For the inside pieces, if I understand your problem right, I would come up with a small brush and put some on carefully. Plus, if you're afraid of getting the glue on the part of the letters that shows through, you may try some vaseline on the leather. I HAVE NOT TRIED THAT - but I do put vaseline on my glue jar threads to make sure it doesn't get glued shut on me, so it may work. Test out some Vaseline on a scrap piece to make sure it wont do anything funky with the leather. Just a thought I had though

Yeah, I know it's not the best for the job (at all), but I just picked up an old Necchi (80's Taiwan) to be able to do some lightweight stuff while I build up funds for something more suitable. I know nothing about machines, but I do know a couple people who have been using similar models with success. Is there anything I can do to make it a little bit better for leather? I'm planning on just getting some small stuff done on it, probably about 9oz total TOPS - stuff like 5/6 with a light liner. I had pretty much NO budget for a real machine and ended up at about $80 on this thing shipped.

Depends. I like to give it a couple hours at least. Probably don't really need that long, but why risk it? I've been doing some upholstery work lately and I've been using a chunk of smooth wood clamped down with some spring clamps to get even pressure. Find whatever you can to get even pressure throughout the length. If it's small enough to just put something on top, that should work. I know some people don't even put any pressure on it, so it may not be necessary. Again, I'd just rather not take the chance on something that's leaving my shop to the point where I won't be able to easily fix it should it peel up in the future.

You'd want to apply it to both surfaces. Just apply it all over the top, and focus the bottom application to the areas that you KNOW will be covered (each end outside your lettering and the edges). I thought that might be worded a little funny, so I'm glad you asked.

That could work. I would focus my glue on the top piece and only apply it to the areas I KNOW are going to be covered on the bottom. Your main concern on a project like this will be keeping those edges together. Using the contact cement (which is what I would recommend), you'll want to make sure that the bottom piece doesn't have any dye or finish on it and apply to both pieces. Then let it tack up a bit before sticking them together. It's actually best practice to put on two coats - letting the first dry a bit and then allowing the second coat to reactivate for a lifelong bond.

careful application of the glue is about all you can do. If there's a spot that MUST NOT have glue, you can try masking it beforehand. What are you using for glue?

Looks like you're running into the most common problem with black (regardless of manufacturer) - uneven application. I would put a light coat of neatsfoot oil on it (light light) and then rub some more black on it. That should even it out and make it pop. I like to use the blue shop paper towels and just rub it on. You'll get a pretty even application that way.

Depends on the item. Something like that I would cut out the shape first and then tool it up. Be sure to back it with something like packing tape or posterboard so it doesn't stretch out and lose it's shape as you're tooling.

Click "more reply options" on the bottom right and you'll see a spot on the bottom to add an attachment. You may need to compress your files in order to post them in the forum. let your dye sit for at least a couple hours. I would usually prefer overnight. Keep in mind that when you glue, you'll probably want to sand off the excess on the edges, so be prepared to redye the edges. What you should be doing with the edges is leave them alone, assemble with glue, bevel front and back edge, slick, dye, finish (all according to our edge finishing guide). If you try to get them dyed up first, then it's just going to cause more work since you want to make the edge look like it's ONE piece of leather. Has anybody pointed out the Edge Finishing guide to you yet? It's in the pinned topics here.

We have a whole sub-forum for it. Have a look around and ask if you need clarification on anything. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=18 As for cleaning, you should at least wipe it down with a light coat of alcohol (light, because alcohol will dry out the leather). That said, I don't do it. I just religiously wash my hands with dish-soap before handling an order. I do wear gloves all the time though when I'm working with any kind of finish.

Most of the stuff Springfield has will serve you well. The have stuff for all levels and some Tandy items too, so if you're not sure, just ask them and they'll get you sorted out. Another good spot for tools is Barry King, as well as Sheridan Leather Outfitters. Most of my frequently used tools are Barry King bevelers and swivel knife - aside from my Leatherwrangler's knife and Bearman Maul, but those are custom and pretty pricey.

Have a look here for a rundown on the different types of leather. As Glendon said, Vegetable Tanned is the only type that you can really tool. BUT, don't just go by color. There's lots of stuff out there that's not vegetable tanned but looks like it. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7447

Thanks Ed!!

If you're scared of the cutting, I would suggest picking up some scrap bags to practice on. The key is to measure and check before you do it, then keep a good handle on your knife. Go slow and make sure the knife is SHARP

Cut one out to your desired shape, then cut the other one slightly oversized. Once they're attached, then you can come through and trim the big one to the exact shape of the other. If you try to cut them the same before attaching, you'll never get them lined up evenly. You'll want to make your cuts from the grain side, which is the tooling side. The back of the leather is called the "flesh".

I hadn't thought of that. I've never made a lined belt, so it didn't cross my mind. But, it makes sense. I guess in the end you'll know if it's too rigid for the customer or not since you know how heavy duty your normal belts are

I would just go with thinner leather from the start. If you're doing an unlined belt, I'd say between 6 - 8 oz for a 1 1/4" belt. 1 1/2" and up could go to 8/9. BUT, if you're lining it, make that your total weight.

It's still worth the 6 bucks I haven't even had a chance to read through it, just skim, and she was kind enough to put quite a bit of information in there. It's not just "here's the shapes and designs - have at it".

Thanks for all the compliments guys!! Yeah Bro, I'd been wanting to do that flare out off the border for quite some time. This one just seemed like the perfect candidate for it!! I'm just getting so bored with "decal" work. Hopefully this one will show people what kind of things we can do to really utilize the leather and bring it all together.

Resolene REEKS, but only in large amounts. If your leather stinks because of it, there's a good chance you're using too much.

They're wax conditioners. MPB is a mixture of Mink Oil, Beeswax, and Pine Pitch. It's great stuff. conditions the leather and adds a protective wax finish on it. I use it on everything before I wrap it up and send it out, and also instruct my customers to do the same a couple times a year as needed. If you're applying over Resolene, you'll want to let it sit for several hours (over night) to allow the oils to penetrate the finish, and then buff off according to the instructions in the morning.

yeah, that's why it was a serious "DUH" moment for me. From my first day of mixing colors as a kid I learned that the quickest way to make a pooh brown was throwing EVERY color together. Even came up with my wife the other day when she asked if I could add black to darken something and I told her that would probably just make it brown. Don't know why it never occurred to me that they would be doing the same thing with the dyes.