Cyberthrasher

Haven't seen exactly that before. I'm wondering if maybe something was in/on your sponge that transferred with the Resolene. At first it sounds more like tiny bubbles, but not quite. You can attempt to rub it out with some water on a rag. If that doesn't work, use some light alcohol. Just something to remove the top layer of Resolene without pulling it all off.

If you want the Grant books at the best price - Amazon. I seriously don't know why Tandy thinks they have to double the price of everything.

They've started doing that a lot more frequently lately, especially during busy seasons. My UPS guys will normally pound on the door real quick, just in case I didn't notice my dog going off. I had a FedEX delivery that got me heated once though. Brand new drum machine and the guy literally THROWS the box onto my porch and just leaves. I happened to be sitting there watching him do it so I was pretty irate about it.

I don't know. I HATE supersheen. Couple of things here to clear up first while you're new (gotta do it now to save you trouble later). Hi-Lite is NOT dye!! It's more accurately described as a liquid antique. It's only really meant to accent the tooling, but will also change the overall color of the leather. I point this out because if you attempt to "resist" dye, your results will be TONS worse then this. My suggestions here: Without telling you to use different products..... Let your first coat dry longer. Applying the second coat so soon may have reactivated the first. I'd give it a couple of hours between coats. Second, use more coats. 3 or 4 at a minimum. It's been a LONG time since I've watched those videos, but it's quite possible that he was being pretty heavy with the coats as well.

I get Hermann Oak exclusively now. My B grade sides come from Springfield Leather and my A grade either comes from Sheridan Leather Outfitters or Goliger Leather.

Yeah, I always avoid them for several reasons. I was just offering this up as an example of the fact that there are always going to be different "chemicals" involved between the various tanneries.

I highly doubt everybody here will avoid Tandy. It's actually a common additive in tanning chemicals south of the border.

I would second the "different leather" idea if you do lay off for a couple weeks and it goes away. Also, if that happens, go through EVERYTHING in your shop area and see what's changed. Maybe there's something else there contributing to it. But, in the end, all the different tanneries use different processes and chemicals. Never know what's going to be on one company's Veg-Tan and not the other. I've even had some import that came from "That" store which was tanned in urine. Just buy a couple pieces from a known source and see if you have the same reaction. If so, move on to a different source.

Most of the sides I get can be checked like Bruce mentions. Since most of my work is 3" straps, I can get away with a little more give than someone working a 1 1/2" belt. I also find that I get pretty close by looking at the flesh side instead since it will usually show those weak spots a lot more than the grain will.

If the item's going to get wet, Resolene is always the better choice. Resolene seals the leather. Apply it after burnishing and dying and before waxing.

I haven't tried Angelus, but mine are Resolene, Clear-Lac, RTC Sheridan Resist, then Tan-Kote. I'm slowing trying to build up to using more Clear-Lac. My first experience with it was a disaster because I didn't know what I was doing. It kind of scarred me a little. That said, I saved my first ever bottle of Super Sheen. I use it when I'm teaching someone how to do stuff. It's gotta be good for something.

I second to just buy a pan, unless you don't have the means to buy the leather too. If you MUST buy a "kit", Biltwell and ChopperShox both sell them. They're not really priced for people trying to turn a profit though. I really like Accufast2D's pans.

Resolene and Super Sheen are NOT the same product. Super Sheen is an attempt at copying Resolene, but should never be classified as the same. But, it is true that if you apply Resolene wrong it will come out like plastic and crack under stress. ALWAYS apply it 50/50 with water and use several LIGHT coats to build up your coverage.

You don't NEED the double beveler. It's nice to have, but it just speeds up the process. As everybody has stated, just bevel both sides of the line. There are lots of cases in figure carving where you'll need to double bevel a very small portion of the line, a LOT smaller than the space covered by the tool. Just practice and practice some more by beveling each side. Remember, those books are a guide. You don't have to use all of the exact tools, but you do need to study the TECHNIQUE used to get the results.

cover my bench in contractor's paper like Chief and by bulk gloves from Costco (best price I've found). If you spill on your hands, wash up immediately with alcohol.

The middle one looks like it's molded and antiqued for some highlights, possibly with some brown dyes in the recessed areas.

Leather's already basically that color. it just might need some burnishing and higlights afterward. Possibly some antiquing. Acrylic sits on top of leather and SEALS it Dye penetrates leather and changes the color of it. That's why your dye wouldn't stay on and do anything. Whenever possible, ALWAYS use dye if you want a product that will last.

Yes, it is hidden from the general membership so that people who don't want to see it don't accidentally stumble there. You can request access by sending Johanna a message. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showuser=5

Your problem is mostly in the amount of dye on your dauber when you first place it on the leather. It's an immediate release of most of it, then as you move along, there's less dye there to apply to the leather, leaving a streak. First thing you can do is dab off your dauber on scrap leather or paper before applying it to the leather. That will even out how much dye there is to flow off and act more like a dry brush application. Don't soak the dauber either. it doesn't take much. Then you can build up your coats. Also, another big one. A dauber should be used in circular motions, not straight lines. Build up an area as if you're coloring with a crayon in small circular motions. That will get rid of most of your streaks. You may still have to apply a second coat to take care of trouble spots, but that's why you start with a reduced mixture anyway. I'd stick to oil before dye, but don't let it 100% dry. Give it a light coat and let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes. That will help to pull the dye in more evenly.

Always cut with the "base" of the product. Most acrylics are water based, so therefore cut it with 50/50 water.

Don't judge your thread length by project. Use the right amount of thread that doesn't end up tattered and torn toward the end from being pulled through the holes too many times. Using too long of a length will look like crap toward the end, and be more of a hassle keeping it untangled from itself. When I'm doing a long project, I pull off several lengths the same size (a little more than my full arm span) and then backstitch when I'm getting toward the end of it. Then just start a new length like you did at the beginning.

Basically, a bag is a bag and can't be copyrighted like that. BUT, any individual styles of a bag can be. If a person cuts a certain scallop into the front flap, that's a design characteristic that can be copyrighted. I'm basically just repeating what was said above, but it's a touchy enough subject that it bears reiteration. If it's not an individualized design element, then you should be good. If it's just a square bag that's been done since cavemen first decided they needed bags, go for it.

If it's anything like the Edge-Kote, yeah, I kind of remember that. I gave up on edge specific products a long time ago. I find I get much better and durable edge coloring with regular dye on a properly burnished edge.

Oops. Sorry about that. Forgot it was time to clean out that inbox. Should be good now.

Sanding is a must. With two layers of leather that may be different and have the grains oriented in different directions, you've got to get them matched up. Following Bob's method will get you there, then you can experiment and find your own variation that fits your process. There's actually another topic just below this which has another method we're testing. It's the same, just different products being used. That said, you may not always get a 100% invisible pairing. You may ask "how does everybody else get one every time". Well, a lot of those people don't, they use edge coatings that hide the edge instead of actually doing a good durable and slick edge. But, if done right, you will never FEEL a seam there, you just may see a hair line where the two leathers meet.