cbeatti2

Good point. I'll give that a go next time around, and be more cognizant of the use of the shader. Thanks

Thanks. I "borrowed" the pattern so I can't really take any credit for that...and I do agree Brown64, some lift would help. I should get me some of those lifters, or fashion a few in the machine shop.

Hey. I've been away from leatherworking/tooling for a while (and I don't really know why) but have decided to work my way back in, gradually building my skillset. Attached is the first practice piece in maybe 3-4 years. Feel free to critique, as I can use some feedback. The pictures don't seem to do it justice to be honest, but I guess they rarely do, like a photo of a mountain and actually viewing the mountain for real are two totally different things...not that this simple piece is all that majestic. :-) Actually I am sorta happy with it, being the first attempt in a long while. Thanks!

Agreed. Very nice, and lots of intricate tooling there, without being too much. Keep it up!

Yeah, that's what I have started doing lately (helps to get it deeper into the tooling) but it's still not where I want it...maybe I need to increase my Clear-Lac thickness, or apply 3 coats. I don't think I have tried 3 coats before....hmmm. A lighter color of leather would help too I expect. Thanks!

Hello again. Thanks for the reply. I am using Fiebings antique paste, and leave the resist dry for 24 hours between coats and before proceeding to the antique. Lately I have been cutting the paste slightly with Tan-Kote. I have been buffing with trimmed fake sheepwool....trimmed to not reach deep into the tooling impressions. Here is a sample of two coats Clear-Lac (24 hours drying time between) and then some Fiebings Mahogany Antique paste (left). Middle sample is paste without any resist at all, and right sample is untouched leather. I was working through this previously using multiple samples, trying to get the results I was looking for. The sample is very small, about 2 in x 2 in. The photos of the projects were using Sheridan Brown Antique paste I believe. Some samples of what results I have had:

Hi Would someone here be able to fill me in on how to achieve this type of natural finish look for the high areas and the burnished look for the lows on these pieces? I've tried to do this, using a few layers of resist (LCI Clear-Lac) then antique, but haven't been able to maintain the natural, almost un-oiled look of the high parts of the leather as the antique always darkens the resist to some degree. Perhaps the secret is in the leather itself (awesome burnishing properties) and there is no antiquing involved here? It's a look I would like to be able to create for some of my projects but it's been alluding me. These guys sure go to town on their tooling, and create some nice work : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5udaOaTBkeU Thanks! Clark

Thanks for everyone's help. I'll go pick a set before the sale expires...I need all the help I can get with my leather stitching. Tracing paper is also on sale I see. Clark

Ah, I see. They cut a hole like a chisel (hence the name) instead of making a hole like the awl does... The awl makes a small needle hole that gets stretched out and therefore would also shrink and seal up. Good to know. Thanks

Thanks Wishful. I'll probably pick it up then...I keep thinking I have all the tools I need and then along comes the next need, but this one is a necessity I think, but then I always say that. LOL. Clark

Hi Does anyone have any experience with the Craftool Diamond Hole Chisel Set (Pt # 3009-00)? It's on sale ATM and seems like a good buy for a hobbyist like me but not sure if I should be using something like this or simply using a diamond awl and doing one stitch at a time as demonstrated in "The Art of Hand Stitching Leather", after using the stitch wheel. The chisel set seems like it would reduce a lot of the inconsistency I seem to currently have in my stitches. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/search/searchresults/3009-00.aspx Thanks, Clark

Hi. I am working on this biker wallet to try to get into the swing of creating non-kit projects and to see if I can learn how to hand stitch in the straight line I am wondering about the second piece (back of the cover, slightly smaller than the cover piece). Is this piece somewhat optional, to be added if you don't want the backside of the cover to show the flesh side or perhaps to thicken up the cover if using the same weight of leather for the entire piece? I have cut out all parts except for this piece, as the flesh side of the cover is pretty decent and the cover piece is of heavier weight and doesn't need to be any thicker. Thanks, Clark

Wow, that is neat. Very nice. Thanks for following up and showing the details of how this all fits together to keep everything dry. Cheers!

Very nice Chris. I have been meaning to build a similar handlebar tool roll bag and have a question regarding yours. With the flap edge facing forward like you have is there a problem keeping water out in a downpour (we all get caught in them)? I was thinking of making mine with the flap facing back to shed the water but am curious if there was a way you have sealed off the flap. Forward looks better if you don't have a shield...

Yes, plus...thanks to Gary, I learned a new acronym and a new word.

Hi Brent That pretty much encapsulates everything that has been going through my head on how to complete this project. I didn't really want to resist the whole piece because I wanted a more natural look (not plasticized) yet still wanted the beauty of the antique. For some reason, as I have mentioned, the antique paste has colored the resist on other projects to some degree and it has lessen my confidence. I just might try that masking method that you mention, and slightly feather the residual antique paste into the untooled area. But then there are those gremlins and the bad karma to worry about.

Hi Yes, I have done quite a bit of antiquing, percentage wise of what I have made up till now, and it's becoming a bit of an addiction...but it's the larger area that I was concerned with and trying to leave it untouched. Everything up till now has been mostly tooled so it wasn't a concern. I still enjoy watching that video though... along with the other videos that the verteran's in this biz have posted. Aaron, your mention of a medium heavy coat made me wonder if perhaps I am applying Neat-Lac too lightly. I was reading where you don't want a thick coat of the Neat-Lac so I usually do two thin coats as a resist. Maybe too thin. Hmm I am using the Fiebing's Paste...might cut it this time with Tan-Kote as I have been reading that that can help with the coverage... but that's another topic. Thanks for your help guys. I'll forge on and see if I can do this right. Cheers!

Thanks Aaron What do I do with the large non-tooled area...just resist it too, and antique that area as well although most of it will be wiped up, and hopefully all of it? I did a smaller project this way and the antique paste affected the untooled area, even after two thin coats of neat-lac, which is why I am concerned. If I only put the paste on the tooled area some of the paste can make it's way to the untooled area. Perhaps I need to clean up the paste better somehow. Attached is the picture project pieces, to give an idea of of what I am struggling with. Thanks, Clark

My project has some tooling at the bottom 1/3 of the pieces and the rest is non-tooled leather. I am trying for a natural, slightly brown finish by perhaps using saddle tan or light brown dye on the untouched 2/3 and to antique the tooling area. What I am having a hard time wrapping my head around is how to separate the two...I am afraid that the antique paste color will move onto some of the natural 2/3 unless I am super careful with the paste (and what are the chances of that happening, knowing how it gets everywhere)? Maybe I need to resist the entire piece (3 pieces actually so there is a lot at stake here, in my small leather-working hobby world) and apply the antique paste to the entire piece so that the coloring is uniform? I don't really want to do this as the paste will probably give the untooled part a look that I wasn't going for. I was also thinking of was just treating the entire pieces with Neatsfoot oil or EVOO and letting them darken in the sun...but by trying to highlight or antique the tooling areas is complicating this. Maybe I need to brush on the antique paste with a small brush and carefully wipe up the excess, antiquing a leaf/petal at a time? Here is an example of what I am trying for, only perhaps a bit darker: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/home/department/Kits/44373-00.aspx You can see that the petals and inner leaves are a darker brown, more that what I believe to the be simply tooling impression (I am not pointing at the black back-grounding) Anyways hopefully I have explained this clearly...for some reason I am at a loss on how to proceed, and very nervous about screwing it up after all the work that has gone into it (I am sure everyone has been there). Thanks, in advance Clark

Hi Rosemary It sounds like you are looking for more of a matte finish. Maybe take a look at this thread, particularly the part about Katsass's "Mop N Glo", which he has been using for quite some time. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=30665&st=0&p=216819&hl=+matte%20+finish&fromsearch=1entry216819 If you decide to give it a try let us know how it works out for you. Clark

I don't think I have ever read any mention of this before, so I thought I better ask. Here is what I am not sure about: If you have a one foot by two foot piece of leather and you needed to do tooling on the 6 inches of leather at either end would you case then entire piece of just case the ends? I am thinking maybe a water line/stain might occur it I don't case (and bag) the entire piece of leather. For some reason I am hesitant to case the entire piece, as it seems like a lot of unrequired casing, but perhaps it is necessary. What do y'all recommend? Thanks, Clark

Ah yes, I see that now. I think my fingers were feeling quite raw when I finished the lacing, so much so that I didn't feel much like going back there...but I should have. Thanks for that input.

Hi. Did up this purse recently for a friend. It turned out alright I think, but feel free to critique. Thanks, Clark

Ha-ha, yeah no kidding! $4.87 (US) for 32 oz of the stuff ! http://www.walmart.com/ip/MOP-N-GLO-FLOOR-SHIN/14711717

Good info. Thanks for the quick answer Mike...and yes, it does sound crazy. I'll try to hunt some down here in Canada and give it a go, practicing on some small pieces until I know I have it right. Maybe it's readily available here, just nothing jumping out on the web from a Canadian store. Clark