randypants

yep, i missed that. looks like his only option is to set 'em between the layers.

i use Line 24 snaps in 8 to 10oz leather all the time. they don't roll down as far, but i haven't had any of them come apart.

Cause it works and makes your edges look top notch. OP, i usually dye my edges after sanding them but before starting with the glycerin. looks great every time.

My shorts aren't in a twist. i don't have a dog in this hunt. it's not my piece of work. i was simply reading your response to his post. this is the internet, and there is no understanding of context in type unless it's blatantly stated. we have no facial expressions, tone or volume of voice to pick up clues as to intent of the writer, only what they have written. as you typed it, it did sound like you were berating his work, especially by capitalizing the word "your" in your sentence. suggesting that HIS content wasn't worth anyone's time. it could have easily been read that you were being rude. and in your next post you call him rude, and you quote his post where it looks like,in your opinion, he was in fact whining. not being rude. unless you think whining is being rude. a nicer way to write it, if you meant no ill will, would have been something like "Folks on this forum either work at leather as a hobby with a full time job or leather is a full time job. Under those circumstances there may not be as much time to "hang out" on a forum as in a lot of other forums that you and others may frequent. this might be why you aren't getting a lot of views or comments." i didn't think he was getting all up in the air about no one looking at his work, just simply stating that no on was. and that's what i mean by context. you and i have none because we didn't type it. i could be right in what he meant, but i could be wrong and you could be right. and i'm still mot sure what you meant with your "Haven't you read any of the archives etc.?" comment. it just didn't seem to have any place in the conversation. it's kind of a moot point anyway, as it seems he took the pic down.

are you talking about something i don't know about? cause it looks like he posted a figure carving in the figure carving section. content in the right forum? yes do you need to check the archives before posting a picture of your work? no simply seems to me that he was saying that people don't comment or even look at his work. while not commenting is a personal preference, actually looking at post of figure carving IN the figure carving forum isn't unheard of, and i don't think the archives have anything to do with looking at a post. most web forums on other topics get you pretty quick responses, whereas posting a picture or question on this site sometimes takes a day or two to get a response. i think that's what he means by not a lot of people using this site. i've come on here and seen most of the forums have the same threads, in the same order, for 2 or 3 days straight without new comments being added to them. it does seem, to some of us used to higher traffic web forums, that people don't get on here often.

can't believe no one's commented on this. i love it. looks awesome!!

even easier method. no software downloads necessary. print the image, use your printers copy function and use that to shrink it to the size you need. if you make it the wrong size, you don't have to pull up a program to try again. all it costs is an extra piece of paper.

how would a leather paddle hold up? would you sandwich a piece of Kydex between 2 pieces of 3 to 4oz leather?

ok. i got it. i haven't made many holsters, but i didn't have much to go off of to start with. this is what i've been doing. i don't see the need for a reinforced throat personally. i feel if i have to pull it out, then putting it away is the last thing i'm gonna worry about. but having the reinforcement leaves a lot more room for design, from an aesthetic point of view. the color isn't great, i'm trying to figure out how to do a clean 2 tone without an airbrush.

like i said, not knocking your work, i've just never seen one like that. and i'm always interested in peoples reasons for the way they do things. as to what i mean by the extra leather under the trigger guard, like i said, i see it on all holsters, why not just follow the contour of the gun if the area isn't being used for a belt loop?

not knocking your work, cause you do great work, but why inside the belt? you're half way to the IWB, why not go all the way? i think it would annoy me, personally, or just be unfamiliar to me. all the holsters i've had have been IWB or OWB paddle holsters, os maybe it's just me not being used to the design. also, what's up with the leather under the trigger guard? every one i see is like this, but if it's an IWB, or a belt carry with the belt loops attached, it seems pointless.

you could make your own. i make my own out of Kydex. it's a lot easier than it sounds.

that's F'ing awesome!! $32? can they do anything? or just letters?

mark and punch your holes from the back side, then use a free stitch groover to connect the dots. a ruler will help with this on the straight lines. your top and bottom stitch(front and back) should look exactly the same if you're doing a saddle stitch. also, you could leave out the groove all together. if you do it right, it can look good. Randy

my advice, if you only put the finish on the design(with a paintbrush, not going out of the design areas) then i'd stain the rest of it a light brown. it'll hide the blemishes, and look good. me, i'd go for a dark brown. i just LOVE that color on leather.

cut the groove on the back(inside) of the leather. if you mess up, no one will see.

well, he's looking for an OWB holster for work(He's a probation field officer). he wants it molded. lots of detail in the molding, and a skull and crossbones on each side at the muzzle end. the glock 22 is for IWB holster. both with a FWD cant. Both black.

thanks. i never thought of that

does anyone know a good holster maker in or around East Troy, Wisconsin? i have some one looking for 2 custom holsters. one for a Glock 22(easy to get a blue gun), and a Hi-Point .40 S&W( can't find one to save my life).

i could be wrong, but i don't think it's tattooed in with a machine. anyone who has used a tattoo machine, or even got a tattoo for that matter, knows that when the needle hits skin(real, pig, or synthetic) ink tends to get all over the area you're working in, and subsequently has to be wiped away. anyone who has dyed or stained leather knows that when it gets on an area you don't want, it colors the leather, and trying to wipe it away would just increase the problem. just my 2cents

i recommend moving to Phoenix. that'll solve your snow shovel debate.

running a welt(leather spacer), in the middle of the front and the back. i learned that on this site!! best way to do it is to cut a piece the same size as your front and back, mark and punch your holes for stitching, then place your knife, centered, on the piece to be used as the welt and trace the outline of the blade, maybe 1/8" wider all the way around. then cut out the tracing. you should be left with the outside, where the stitching is done, and the inside, to be used as scrap, or tossed if it's a really small blade. hope that helps. Randy

sorry, it's a joke. when you post a pic of a hot chick on a forum, and people start saying that "her elbows are too pointy, i wouldn't hit it" it's a compliment. the seat looks great.

elbows are too pointy.

thanks for the advice. i wasn't going to put the rivets in it, but i made the sheath just a little too tight, but it's still usable. just a layer of protection just in case.