markush

I've been thinking of doing some double layer (flesh to flesh) pancakes using some 4-5 oz Tandy Craftsman Oak shoulders. Is there a reason NOT to do a pancake like this? I've been using Hermann Oak for the stuff I've done so far but the Tandy Craftsman Oak shoulders are on sale right now for 3.50 a SQFT...am I going to regret going down to the Tandy Craftsman stuff?

Looking at your holster it appears I may have received substandard skins? You'll see that a good many 'pustuales'? (or 'warts' as we used to call them as kids) on my skins had lost their top layer. They came to me like this and haven't deteriorated any further, even after wearing the holster almost daily for about a month now, but seeing the skins arrive like this is what made me concerned for their durability and start this thread. I'm stuck with mail ordering so is there someplace I can be assured to get a quality skin or can you tell me what I should ask for when ordering...I'm not so sure asking for "skins without popped putuales" would be the best way to order?

Yep, that's how I did it and would do it again!

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but shouldn't it be measured the same as a stitch line for a holster? Half the thickness of the piece plus the thickness of one piece of leather should tell you how far away to put the stitch line. That's how I made my one and only Mag pouch and it came out fine.

Thanks for the measurements! My 637 cylinder measures at 1.593 so it's comparable to your M60. I'm sure your M60 has an 2.125" barrel which is a 1/4" longer then my 637. So it looks like I can mold for any J-frame that has the 1 7/8" barrel. Anyone want to throw a monkey wrench into my observation?

Thanks for that list shooter. I've always discounted the 300 series J-frames because they have a full underlug barrel, am I right in doing so? Or would a holster losely molded in the barrel area work and be considered ok. What about the .357 models...is the cylinder and cylinder window the same dimensions as the .38 models?

I've only built two IWB with PTD snaps so FWIW...On the first one I built so the there was about 1/4' from top of belt to bottom of the snap. It worked but like you experienced it was harder then I though it should be to snap/unsnap. The next one I built to have a 3/8" space...works much better and not sloppy on the belt like I was worried it could be. I can't give you a formula as I made the straps longer then needed, molded them around the belt, then drilled the snap holes to get the 3/8" clearance.

I have a S&W 637 that I can use to mold holsters to and need to know what other S&W J-frame models will fit in my holsters. Is there a list or link that someone can share? I know of the 637, 36, 37, 442, 642. I'm guessing there is more?

A light coat of neetsfoot oil will help tremendously with the color and dryness! And then a finish coat of your choice would...well finish it off.

It's Hermann Oak from Springfield. I've got some of both their craftsman and B grade. The flesh side does start out tight and slick but It seems after I vinegaroon and wet mold it starts to lift up into a bit of nap. Then with use it starts to loosen up a bit more from the edged or corners of the gun abrading it. I've been using the Bag-Kote and that hasn't seemed to keep that "nap" from appearing. When I tried the Gum Trag on some scrap pieces that had been both vinegarooned and not, the Gum Trag made both really slick, like waxing it up. That's where I am now...wondering if the Gum Trag could make it too slick...

I feel like I've been shunned! Does nobody use Gum Trag on holster interiors or am I asking a silly question?

How about this...does anyone slick up their pancake holster interiors with Gum Trag? If so is there still good retention? I'm trying to avoid ruining a finished holster with Gum Trag if it's going to let the gun slip out like a wet bar of soap.

It looks great! But I have to ask...how do you draw that thing while it's being worn?

I've been using Bag-Kote outside and in on my holsters. I like what it does on the exterior but it seems to do next to nothing on the inside. I just picked up some Gum Trag and this stuff really does slick up the flesh side! I have 2 questions...What is such a slick interior going to do for retention on my pancake holsters? All my stuff has passed the upside down and shake lightly test...Is Gum Trag going to change that? Second question is how does it hold up to abrasion? Is it going to roughen up pretty quick with pistol and revolver cylinder edges sliding across it?

Raybans suggestion is a good one. The way I've done it is to start in the corner you want to be spot on, then as you come to the next corner or end, stop a stitch hole or two before getting there then mark the last hole or two by hand. This way you can get them evenly spaced within the space you have left.

I'll just add that I too received the Tandy groover you have and I also didn't order it from Tandy. Mine arrived with a blade that was not sharp at all and the best I could get it to do was skitter along making an uneven groove. instead of trying to figure out how to sharpen a brand new blade I just order ordered a replacement blade. If we ordered from the same place and you decide to try a replacement blade from them pay attention as they list two different size blades. Mine uses the larger "saddle makers" blade and even though I stated that when ordering, they sent me the smaller blade. Another phone call got me the correct blade. Thankfully that one came sharp enough to make a decent groove.

That molding looks really nice! I have a question though...with your molding being so good in the trigger guard and at the rear of the cylinder is that clip enough to keep the holster on the belt when you draw? LOL i just notice that this thread was resurrected from almost 2 years ago!!

@ Andrewsky I simply chuck one of these into a drill press, spin it at 3100 RPM, and run the holster edges through the appropriately sized channel while it is still wet from the vinegaroon process...no super slippery secret sauce required. @ dickf I agree with you about the design. Every thing I've made has been for myself. I know what I have here is an as exact as I can make copy from only seeing photos of this holster. I take no credit for anything other then putting this thing together. And I'd have no clue how this design could be improved upon. Heck I don't even know what you mean by overworking the leather... @ jlaudio I'm just using Bag-Kote as a final finish. Vinegaroon for color a touch of neatsfoot then the Bag-Kote. I've actually polished my snap setter anvil so it's super smooth. It's possible the finish "cracked" while setting them but I know they didn't get scratched while setting them. @ haystacker yes your pics help a lot. I am now considering adding another stitch line to this particular holster to help it keep it's retention as it gets worn...would it be smart to do it right now or would there be any harm in waiting until the holster loosens up a bit and then adding another line? @ wizard yes I know! I keep thinking the perfect design for a mark is going to hit me in the face one day and I'll know it when I see it...nothing yet.

Thanks. No, it's in there tight and as deep as I intended it to be. The snaps all looked fine when I set them. When I attached the straps to the holster and formed them to the belt I noticed the top one starting to look like that. After I applied finish to the holster I noticed the bottom one was starting to look the same way. I have no clue why the finish on the snaps is doing what it is. For my burnishing I'm using Cocobolo edge burnishers made by a forum member here that goes by "spinner" . I'm not really sure how to bone either and it's one area that I would like to improve. To me it's like drawing a picture...I can't draw a straight line to save my life! I've read some people use "modeling" tools to do their boning. I have a set of steel "picks" that I use to try to draw the boning lines with.

This Axiom copy is for my 2" J-frame. This is my second attempt at making a holster for this revolver and I still didn't get the stitch line just right. My very first holster was a cross draw rig for this gun and I just guessed at stitch line spacing...it ended up being too tight. This time I measured the cylinder and went half of that all around the gun...it's too much. Maybe on the third one I'll get it figured out. This is the first time I used Tandy' s black line 24 snaps and I am NOT pleased with how the finish is coming off! They've been snapped/unsnapped less then a dozen times and I've worn the holster less then 10 minutes and two of the snaps look like they've been drug across the pavement! If there's any criticism you guys can offer to help make my next holster better, besides stitch line spacing, please let me know!

Since I'm bored and saw RMB answer this question in this thread... Blueguns Update I'll pipe up and say $47.98 which includes shipping.

Thanks guys. Yes I'm hand stitching. It is definitely the most time consuming and labor intensive part. There's about 4 hours of stitch work in the Axiom with the exotic overlay adding half of that... that's grooving, marking, drilling, stitching... Thanks for the tip on the 1911 holster. It makes sense since the butt isn't pulled in as tight as I'd like. When I drew it up I made it a little longer so it would flex with the belt around my back. The reason I did that is that when I made one of my IWB with a short back wing it doesn't flex. So it sticks out more and creates a pocket between my belt and skin that prints through my shirt. I'm guessing you have to find a happy medium between too long and too short? One area I'd really like to improve but don't know how to get there is in the molding and boning. I've seen some really impressive molding along with what looks like CNC precision boning lines. I would love to be able to do that!

Holster #4 for me is a copy of the Sparks Axiom for the M&P w/Frog skin trim. Thanks to forum member redhat4201 for sharing info on how the Axiom is put together! I love this holster! It is very comfortable carrying the FS M&P loaded down with 16 rounds of 180gr .40. I'm really happy with my workmanship on it but I am very disappointed in the Frog skin..it looks like shyte! I'm pretty sure I just got a couple of low quality skins but I won't be using it again anytime soon. #5 is for my 1911, It's the first I've done for the 1911 and i see I'll have to tweak the stitch line in a couple places on the next one. I don't know if it's less comfortable because I strapped it on after wearing the Axiom copy for about 4 hours or just that the 1911 weighs more but yeah, it's slightly less comfy. Feel free to point out what could be better! Other then tweaking stitch lines and cursing my use of the Frog I'm not sure what to do next...I've run out of guns that need holsters... I really wish I would have used Elephant on this one instead of the Frog!

It is actually a copy of the Milt Sparks Axiom which is an OWB. Yes the front a rear are the same except for the little bit of a sweat shield on the rear piece. As long as it's the same gun I can re-use that template. But with a different gun almost everything would change so it would be a new template. I'm just making holsters for myself so a new template for the few guns I have is not a big deal. I know nothing about putting together a flat backed, molded front holster so I really can't help there, sorry.

I do it the same as Big O...easiest way i could think of to have everything line up.