Leather Guru

Hello Andrew , Actually those guides exist for those big machines & once" you got one you'll wonder how you ever lived without one !

I think U guys are looking for this kind of sewing guide ! This guide swings up & is out of the way . I'm dreaming of the perfect sewing guide ! ! A sewing guide is almost more important than the machine itself ! ! ! YOURS TRULY , LEATHER GURU

Hey Trox , I left you a personal message asking for your address so's I can send you that stuff . Ralph

Hi again Trox , I got a feed dog and the swing away guide to mount the binder . & of course you can have them if U want Send me the part numbers from the other stuff & I'll ask Callot for clone prices I also got a binder and it's for leather . It's included in the price 000,00€ Let me know . Ralph

Hi Trox ! I think i Still have all that stuff from my old 345 . I'll have a look today and let you know . Ralph

Hi Bob , Thanks for your quick answer . Actually I already changed when I asked the question BUT . I had to lower the needle bar too much so the hook would pass at the right moment . I suppose that the timing is not correct ? ? Which leads me to my next question . I suppose that the timing is adjusted at the base of the machine after removing the cover plate ? Is the timing adjusted with the bobbin case against the top stop or bottom stop on the arm which propels the shuttle ? Do you see what I mean ? I got some experience so you don't have to be too gentle . Also the needle should rise how many millimeters when the hook arrives ? Thanks in advance for your help . Ralph

Is it possible to change from needle system 794 to 328 on my 441 clone ?

This is the kind of work that U can earn money with . The chair is a project I designed and covered in leather . The bed head was made for a five star hotel in Suisse Which I have the good luck to have as a client !

If I were me I'd get the Adler

Hello Hellfirejack . . . Why not contribute 50 bucks to Lw .net instead of getting all your info free ? Right on Sylvia ! I could sure use a chica like you doing all my computer work ! You have given some useful info like making those thumbnails bigger . Thanks

Why not try , using a needle with a big eye , to hide Ur thread ends inside Ur work Well I'm not explaining clearly perhaps

I think ur looking for a good contact glue like Pattex or something similar . Don't forget to try the glue on some scraps ! I'm sure U can find something in a DIY store that would be suitable

Good question ! Sew on a piece of scrap leather (after setting your machine to the desired stitch length) Take a compass and measure 4 stitches or less and make a point at the place you want to stop and a point 4 stitches farther and then again in your groove . When you arrive at the first point (8 stitches away from the end) you will see if you have to help your machine (holding back the work or pulling a little bit ) . By the time you arrive at the second point (4 stitches away from the end) you should be OK to arrive correctly at the end) . The smaller the stitch the easier. If your crossing a strap , adjust your stitch lenght to make it easy to cross with a certain # of points . Claro ?

Good morning , If you want a really good machine , get an adler 269-373 or a clone there of . Where as your 335 the feed dog doesn't rise up the 269 does making better traction and the bobbin is twice the size of your 335 . And as Wiz said you can easily arrange all your machines to take the same needles but unfortunately not the feet .

Hello everybody ---- I'm having a hard time understanding what you guys mean by servo motor and especially about changing the speed on the motor . Aren't the speeds to be found in the position of your foot pedal ( the farther you push it the faster the speed ) ? And also , don't these motors have a synchroniser on the fly wheel that you can adjust for the needle positioning system . When I push on the pedal and immediately release it the needle goes in to the preferred down position . When I push with my heel the needle goes to the up position and all the speeds are to be found in the foot pedal . That box you see in the photo is in fact a computer the you can program all sorts of different parameters .

Nice job man , I think Bob is gonna be selling a lot of guides . In my opinion these guides should be standard equipment on those machines ! You should now make yourself a straight guide ( without roller ) which will ride better on top of the leather as in your picture .

Morning Try http://www.magicsfea.it or abbeysaddlery.co.uk

Hello man , I guess your talking about www. abbeysaddlery.uk ? Don't they still have those brass corners ? Try www.mmcolombo.it they have a lot of brass locks .

Greetings everyone , All these knives are made from high speed steel saw blades . The smaller knives from HSS hacksaw blades ( NO bimetal as only the teeth are hardened ) . The hardness and toughness of this steel is hard to beat . Some of the blades are hollow ground and some flat ground . Some on one side and some on both sides . The hollow ground are more flexible at the tip , which is good for some work , and their easier to sharpen . Another advantage is when sharpening HSS it won't lose it's temper even when heated red. The small knives I use to cut around patterns and they are beveled only on one side and as hacksaw blades are thin , they sharpen in a jiffy .