grail

Looking for a tug roller similar to the one pictured. These were made with a pair of oval shaped rollers and one of the rollers was made of brass. The beautiful ones were made by AJK, Rafflenbeul and WH&B

I just sold a Fred Moreau clam for $850 and it did not have many add on extras. If you ever find one and want it - better get it because they are exceedingly rare. Fred's clams were built and designed to be Rolls Royce of stitching clams and well worth the price. Fred is not making them anymore due to poor health. I'll leave it at that.

Fred is not making them anymore due to poor health.

I just sold a Fred Moreau clam for $850 and it did not have many add on extras. If you ever find one and want it - better get it because they are exceedingly rare. Fred's clams were built and designed to be Rolls Royce of stitching clams and well worth the price. Fred is not making them anymore due to poor health. I'll leave it at that.

Will it cut a side angled channel as is seen here for shoemaking?

Is this RODI the same? I want to know if it can cut an angled channel into sole leather - please see photos. There seems to be lots of screw adjustments on it... AND I see it has a vertical knife too.

I'm going to get a maker stamp made for shoemaking and thought the electric iron would be a good idea to burn my logo on the sole. Then I thought why not use the maker stamp sometimes to mark the inside heel area - but that would be thinner chrome tanned leather and require hot foil debossing. There is a hot stamping machine, but why should I need it if I have a temperature controlled branding iron? Has anyone here used an electric branding iron for hot foil debossing? Below is the weblink to the heating iron, and yes it does get to a high enough controlled temperature. So I am guessing the concern would be holding the iron steady and knowing how long to keep it in place. Thanks in advance for any input. http://brandingirons.com/product-category/buy-it-now/ready-2-brand-packages/

J.Cook knife barely used $225 (plus shipping) -- This knife ships with with a perfectly beveled and razor sharp edge for you! This was my first quality tool purchase but I did not know what I really needed which was a fatter handle for my extremely long fingers. I am ridiculously careful about taking care of my tools and I am not a high volume saddle shop so you can know that this knife is indeed - barely used. www.jcookblades.com/leather.htm

Where can I buy print calf fur - giraffe print? HideHouse in California does not carry it.

I have the Adler 205-370 and am having problems with the top thread fraying. I have 277 top thread, brand new 25 needle (does not have a burr) and 200 shim. Bobbin has 207 thread. Checked the timing and the shuttle hook is just barely behind the needle. I worry about loosening the 2 round tightening bolts underneath - the screws are so very tight and once when I did try and tighten them I could not get them tight again without shifting the hook every time - had to call a repairman to tighten them and keep/get the hook to stay where it needed to be. Is there a sequence of which bolt underneath to undo first? Or how to position/fix the (axel?) underneath in a way so the hook won't shift off this careful placement so easily? It's hard to keep looking up from underneath the machine to the side bobbin case area. I assume the hook not being forward enough - to the front end of the needle is the cause of fraying top thread. There IS some PLAY in the shuttle hook movement, i.e. when everything is tightened you can jigger it back and forth a tiny bit, about half the width of the needle as you view the needle from the long groove side. Should I aim for the hook to be at the center of the needle, the long groove side - when the hook is sitting still ... though you could jigger it forward a bit? Thanks in advance. AB

Where can I get contact or website or catalog for WALSALL products please?