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Pablo27

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Everything posted by Pablo27

  1. Pablo27
    I just bought a new one a couple of years back from these guys: Sheffield Knives J. Adams Ltd, 124 Scotland Street, Sheffield, S3 7DE , United Kingdom. They also have a web page. Can't figure out how to use it from the way the edges are, I have one,lol
  2. Pablo27
    Actually what I am trying to make is a Halter top for a lady friend of mine so I have no pattern, just measurements. My plan is to first draw the pattern on paper, then make it out of cloth, then actually make the deer skin one. Does that sound like the right process? I don't quite understand where/when I need to allow for the thickness? Could someone break that down a little more please. Thanks for all the reply's. Paul
  3. Pablo27
    Wanting to make a shirt out of Deerskin, or maybe calf or lamb. Any experience in this area? Looking for anything I need to know, like experience in stitching, seams, stretch, etc. Any help or advice would be appreciated and is much needed. Paul
  4. Pablo27
    Sorry for the delay in responding as priorities shifted and just now getting back to the post. Thank everyone for the time and advice, however I am afraid that maybe what I said isn't what I meant? I have watched the video by Don and many others, and my intent was not to antique the entire piece. What I was attempting to do was to see the result of antiquing trying different types of resist and what the effect would be with each, so that I might have a better idea how each one worked(or didn't). My reason for posting was that I did not really see any coloration (antique) in any of them? I was hoping to get some feedback as to why there wasn't any real color in any of them, much less any variance among them. Sorry if I wasn't clear about that, and still don't know what I am not doing right?
  5. Pablo27
    Thank you for the quick reply and the sharing of your experience, I totally agree with you on the tried and true and the purity of the trade. My point here actually was that they all worked too well. Doesn't look to me like there was any antique applied at all? I realize that Super Sheen is a water based product, I expected the paste to really penetrate it. I Did use Clear lac on another piece that I didn't show and the result was the same. I was just trying to compare the different resist's (?) to see which combination I liked, but, I just didn't get any antique look at all with any of the combinations? So I'm not sure where to go from here, I will keep trying though. Thanks again for help.
  6. Pablo27
    I tried an experiment using Feibings paste Antique and various different types of resist. For some reason the antiquing didn't work on any of them? On this piece I used Mop-N-Glo top half 1 coat, bottom half 2 coats, Sheridan Brown Feibings paste. On this piece I used Super Sheen two coats Medium Brown paste. On this piece I used RTC on the top portion 2 coats, and 50% Reslone 2 coats on the bottom. I really don't see any antique to speak of on any of the pieces. Any and all thoughts welcome please.
  7. Pablo27
    I realize this is and old post but I am looking at basket weave posts and want to learn. You say draw a line form the top of the slot to the top of the slot for a guideline. I am confused as it looks like (to me anyway) the the line goes from the top of the front slot to the bottom of the back slot? I am missing something here, maybe talking about different slots? It would be gratefully appreciated if you could get me on the right track please. Thank you in advance for all the advice and time. Paul
  8. Pablo27
    Thank you everyone for all the advice, I really love this group. I think I figured (you all figured) it out. There is only one way for me to stamp and still see what I'm doing is to go /. Otherwise I'm always in my own way( not that I'm not use to that!). Electrathon I am looking forward to your example, really like you work. Thanks again everyone, I will keep checking back here.
  9. Pablo27
    I hope this isn't a redundant question but I have been researching for two days and can't find answer. What determines the direction (down to the right or down to the left) of the basketweave? Or is there only one correct direction? Hope this question makes sense to someone out there and thank in advance for any advice. Paul
  10. Pablo27
    Just wondering exactly how you apply the mop-n-glow,brush,spray rag? Thank you
  11. Pablo27
    Richard, you hit the nail on the head!! That is exactly what it is. It is Craftsman oak and was in fact from Mexico. Obviously they weren't showing when I purchased it, they just started showing up as of late. Thank you for your reply and being so knowledgeable and the info.
  12. Pablo27
    Please can anyone identify what these spots are and what causes them? They are all over a hide of 3/4 oz Veg tan. Any suggestions on how to get rid of them or at least use the hide? Thanks Paul
  13. Pablo27
    I was wondering just how do you apply the Mop-n-Glo? Brush, spray, dauber? I have tried a couple of different spray bottles and it just gets clogged after a couple of sprays, and it is a 50/50 mix. Thanks for your help. Paul
  14. Pablo27

    The Bleeding Edge

    Pablo27 replied to Art's topic in Sharpen it!

    This is such a great thread, a lot of information and experience in a couple of pages. Thanks so much Art for sharing so much with us that need it. What is your opinion of Japanese Water stones? Are you supposed to use them like regular stones with a back and forth, or circular motion or just a pulling motion like a strop? Thanks again for taking the time to help us here. Paul
  15. Pablo27
    I have just been experimenting with all the above. A big lesson, and a time and money saver, is to apply the adhesive with an artists pallet knife. The come in many sizes/shapes, are quite cheap and spread the adhesive evenly and use about 1/3 of what I was using with a brush and takes less time to dry. I am very happy with the results. Paul
  16. Pablo27
    Glad you got things worked out, mine really doesn't have a "lip" per se the box is level with the granite. I followed some advice I found on here and there are two pieces of 3/4 Plywood under it. Nice piece you found there good luck. Paul
  17. Pablo27
    Here is a picture of how I fixed mine, works great for me. Hope these come out not sure how to post pics.
  18. Pablo27
    Thanks Ducjes, looks like it could be real handy, except, in the "Cost of Leather" I get a "#NAME?" error? Any ideas?
  19. Pablo27
    For strops for curved blades I have taken PVC pipe couplings with the right diameter to fit the curve of the knife ( I have one 6" coupling to fit the Tandy Curved blade trim knife and a 1.5" for the curved Xacto type knife.) them I glue and lace a piece of leather to them and add polishing compound. Works really well. Paul
  20. Pablo27
    Thanks for that idea, I will give that a try, all I know is I didn't put any finish on it myself. I visited your website and you have some beautiful work on there. I like it a lot. Good luck on your school. Paul
  21. Pablo27
    Perhaps I should have said "any more casing OR conditioners" and yes I am aware of the difference. It does, as you mentioned, seem that some type of sealer has be applied, but, in fact, it hasn't, hence my question. I was hoping someone might have run into the same problem and be willing to shed some light the problem. Not exactly sure what stamping and swivel knife practice enter into this question but thanks for your post. This is a practice piece from the same side I am going to try to use for my project. Thanks again for any help I can get. Paul
  22. Pablo27
    I have some 2-4 oz Tandy veg tan that I am stamping but I am having a real problem with it drying out. After I have cased it a couple of times, in different sessions, it then gets very very dry, I have used water, and the casing solution I found on here on different pieces. After the pieces have dried then they will not take any more casing and any type of oil or conditioner (Neetsfoot, Evoo, Bee Natural oil, Lexol) soaks in, turning the leather dark to very dark. None of these oils soften it the least bit, the leather is still sttiff and dry. What am I doing wrong or not doing, or what can I do? These are just test pieces for just this reason, to learn from. Sure could use any suggestions or ideas because I am spinning my wheels at this point. Thanks in advance for any input or answers to this. Paul
  23. Pablo27
    Things like that usually happen to me when I'm thinking about 10 min ahead of what I'm doing right then. I have to really stay in the moment. Chief I take a lot of blood thinners also, what type of coagulant do you have in your first aid kit? I know at some point it will happen and I want to be ready. Paul
  24. Pablo27
    Don't know if anyone is interested but I know for some reason I had a hard time finding stitching thread for hand sewing. You can find Barbours 18/3 unwaxed thread in a large spool(over 900 yds) at Campbell-Randall Machinery---really great folks to deal with. Or if you want a smaller spool you can get a 172 yd spool from Gaylord Archival. Tiger thread can be bought here in the states from Ludlow Leather by the spool or you can find it by the 25yd sample on Ebay. None of these people have compensated me in any way except they sell what I wanted and couldn't find and they all had great customer service. Paul
  25. Pablo27
    Nigel Armitage (a member of this site) has a great howto video on sharpening awl blades on his Youtube channel. Paul
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