
Billsotx
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window just closes up and goes away
Billsotx replied to Billsotx's topic in Feedback and Suggestions
Thanks for the tip. Now I've got those IE pop-ups back and I check the script boxes and they're still unticked. Guess I'm snake bit. -
Twice now I've been typing a reply and the window just closes up and goes away. I don't know if it's just this forum, it's not happening on yahoo groups and I don't reply to other forums like this, so it may be my computer. Has anyone else had this experience? I know I'm old enough to know that everything should be composed in Word and cut and pasted, but I'm lazy sometimes, like now ... lol. Needless to say those to replies were long winded and are now property of the Disappearing Windows Gods ... lol I hope we don't have a bug planted over here. I was on Chordie yesterday and they are plagued with porn and can't seem to delete it as fast as it shows up. Ok I'm just reporting whatever is going on and will cut n paste from now on.
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Edge-Kote?
Billsotx replied to JPH's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Is that minimalist art or what? ... lol! Nice lookin' blade Jim! Looks like Art's got you up and running. Show us some pix when you have time. talk later ....... -
how do I create (burnish?) realistic looking 'shadow'?
Billsotx replied to cybertracy's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
That's dependent on moisture. There's other threads on casing and there's a lot of opinions and methods on that. As far as the correct moisture to get that shadow you're after I find I get that best just as the surface of the leather begins to appear to be drying, i.e. returning to it's original color or look. If it's too wet there'll be no shadow, if it's just a little too wet you'll get a blackening almost dirty shadow, when it's right you get that burnish, when too dry you get very little shadow. Experiment with it so you notice the getting too dry look, as that's your cue to apply a little moisture, which a damp sponge will usually suffice - wring it out totally and wipe lightly over the project. You'll notice edges drying first and edges may take more moister than the center. If you start too wet you won't get the shadow so wait and watch, too dry add moisture. It'll vary with your leather, how it's tanned, who tanned it, thickness, etc. I find HO needs to be drier than WC and mossback wetter than plain, so make notes; we have to pay attention to details. Try, try and try again, and practice, but you gotta practice right. Garbage in is garbage out. Repetition is the mother of skills. You'll get your shadows with a little experimentation. Good luck and let us know and don't hesitate to ask more if you have questions. regards, Bill -
Edge-Kote?
Billsotx replied to JPH's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Jim, I'll jump in here with a little note. I believe a "round-bottom" edger is what you'll want for edging your sheaths. With your metal work skills you should be able to turn one out in short order. Here's a link that might give you an idea: undefined. There's also a Bob Douglas (also high end tools) on ebay you might look at the photo: Item 120182024166. I started off with those TLF edgers, I didn't know there were different ones and I always wondered why those saddle guys had round edges on somethings so I started asking. Now all my old TLF are round bottom edgers - a round swiss file and a little sharpening with various grits of paper turned them into useful tools. I'd think you could make one after looking at a few pix. Bottom line on burnishing is there's no shortcut. Elbow grease, even a power wheel takes time. You can make one from a piece of hardwood dowel about 5 or 6 inches long and 1.5, 2.0 or 2.5 inches in diameter. Center punch it and install a mandrel and then turn some grooves of various sizes up and down the shaft and run it in a drill press. Use a little moisture and paraffin or beeswax. Glue, sew, dye, edge, sand lightly, moisten and burnish. Apply your finish coat and you're done. I wouldn't dunk it in finish whatever you use. I usually apply finish with a piece of shearling and then pitch it at the end of the day. Like Art said there's a bunch of formulas, you have to find the one you like. You're trying to go fast and if you find fast and less elbow grease I'd like to know. Give us some feedback. I'm interested in what you're doing. I watch this thread. Good luck, Bill -
Take a look at Options > Track this topic on the very first post in each thread. You can do that on categories also. You're right we're all learning and we'll learn more if we keep asking. LW is the place to look for help. We're right at 5,000 members - WOW! - Jo's got a good thing going here, and we're young yet. Then there's some folks that don't know what they're missing, but a closed mind is like an unopen book. Uuuurrrrraaaahhhhh Leatherworker.net! Kudos Johanna!
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IE is Internet Explorer. Foxfire's a browser, as is IE, Opera and there were others mentioned, I think. If you click Help on your browser toolbar you'll probably get a drop down with several choices, one being About ? ... the ? being the name of your browser. If you come up with a Red Legged fox in a forest fire, I'm headin' for the hills ... lol!
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Mine is also: IE 7.0.5730.11
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had to modify a Bianchi Holster
Billsotx replied to Phil's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Phil, If you don't have The Art of Hand Sewing by Al Stohlman it's highly recommended. If there's a bible on saddle stitching, i.e. sewing with two needles, it Big Al's book. All his books are worth lookin' at btw. c u down the trail, ~Bill -
Johanna, I'm in Opera and the profiles work as they should. I've gone back and forth between Opera and IE and IE stills gives the error page and around half the time the back button does not get you to the profile as before but brings you back to the thread. If you just click profile, back, profile, back it will somewhere between three and ten times go to the member profile, but it's via the back button, not clicking the profile button that get you there. If we're beatin' a dead horse here tell me to shove off and I'll go read and write scuttlebutt ... lol. Hope this helps. 'til later, ~Bill
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holsters with a thumb-brake
Billsotx replied to Skipknives's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Skip, I used hacksaw blades as mentioned, I'm always on the lookout for old handsaw blades and putty knives, the cheapos from China are good. I use a Whitney punch for the holes. Depending of the thickness of the leather, say you can use heavy skirt, you can use a piece of roof flashing; the leather gives it enough rigidity so it doesn't stay bent when used. Lately the Dollar store has had some workable putty knives. For what it's worth. If TLF figures out what you're doing with all those belt clips the price will skyrocket ... lol -
had to modify a Bianchi Holster
Billsotx replied to Phil's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
What I do when I have to pull a holster, etc. down like this, in order to realign the existing stitch holes, is use white glue in reassembly, as it gives one some time to work. I fold it over but don't press the sides into contact and I have 5 or 6 harness needles as guides to realign the holes in one side of the holster. I have the corresponding holes on the other side marked inside the holster so they won't show; just a little dot of red marker will do. I actually count the holes on both sides to make sure the needles (guides) are going into corresponding holes and then just slowly press it together. Then with an awl I randomly check to make sure I've got the old stitch holes alignment correct. Then clamp until the glue sets. A saddle stitch is a good repair and looks nice, but you could do it easily with a Boss just going back through the existing holes. I've seen an old saddle maker go back through existing holes on his harness stitcher, but I've never used one so I don't know exactly what that involves. He did run it extremely slow, but not a slow as me on a Boss ... lol Don't know if this will help if there's a next time, but it's worked for me in the repair or dog leashes, slap jacks, gun leather and some of those people restraints -
I get the error page and 2 out of 15 tries, a different profile on each attempt, the back button returned me to the member page, only twice did the back button take me to a member's profile.
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red or blue training weapons
Billsotx replied to Nixon66's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
In my experience the Asp are not exact enough. Ring are pretty good as are the aluminum from Duncan. Search for dummy guns or counterfeit guns or stage props. There's nothing like the customer's gun, but that's getting harder to accomplish money wise. -
It's back to working with the back button almost all the time; I'd say 95% of the time. On those it didn't work with the first time I kept on back and forth and after 4 or 5 times the back button would get me to their profile. I don't know if this will help you. I was testing on that thread about ranger belts. The first post by Robert I could not get to his profile, but scrolling down Robert has another post where he's answering about the billet keeper and that one works using the back button. On the first (top) post I can't get to his profile at all. I try again later. Maybe this will help somehow.
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I do it by hand but I've been thinking about either a vacuum device or a 20 ton shop press. I can use the vacuum device for my woodwork so it's got my interest. Again thanks for sharing and giving your time. Much appreciated. ~Bill
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Now nothing works. I can't even get back to the thread with the back button. I assume something is being worked on and it'll clear up later. Just letting you know.
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I'm running IE just in case that makes a difference. I figured out how to get around the quirk. Click the profile, click refresh, click back and I get the profile consistently. A pain but it seems work time and again, so will do that until the bug is found. Maybe this will help others. I couldn't get to my own profile from a thread and sometimes had to close my browser and reopen it. I guess I should look at another browser. Just what I like to do mess with a computer learning curve while I could be beating a dead cow ... lol! If I notice that the bug's gone away I'll let you know Johanna. Talk later .......
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trick or tip to keep the basket weave pattern in line??
Billsotx replied to craftsman827's topic in Stamping
If you search this forum for basketweave you'll find a similar conversation to the one on iilg. Here's a couple of links that may get you what you're looking for: http://www.leatherworker.net/forum/index.p...17&hl=mosby http://www.pslac.org/public/02_feb05.pdf Hope this helps. ~Bill -
bcj, I run Coats on a Boss, number 277, having changed from Rice to that when the supply of Rice changed or went away a year or so ago and problems were reported with the new Rice. I didn't try the new Rice, just took others word. I have not had a problem with the Coats. I run 277 top and bottom, gun leather is all I build. I get it from Ferdco. Hope this helps. ~Bill
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Jo, Are you still working on those website malfunctions. I get the following (see below) when ever I attempt to check a profile, including my own. Sometimes, but most often not, when I click "refresh" on the tool bar I will get the profile. If it's my machine I'm open to fixin' it if you can tell me what to do. It appears the IE scripts problem is resolved with your instructions (an Romey's ... not ... lol!) from the other post. I appreciate that. Just wondering is you're still working on it or it's me; not complaining. 'til later, ~Bill This program cannot display the webpage Most likely causes: You are not connected to the Internet. The website is encountering problems. There might be a typing error in the address. What you can try: Check your Internet connection. Try visiting another website to make sure you are connected. Retype the address. Go back to the previous page. More information This problem can be caused by a variety of issues, including: Internet connectivity has been lost. The website is temporarily unavailable. The Domain Name Server (DNS) is not reachable. The Domain Name Server (DNS) does not have a listing for the website's domain.
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Skip, Thanks for sharing. The photos are great; they fill in the blanks in my miniature military mind. I appreciate you taking the time to describe all this and making the pix. regards, ~Bill
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Skip, Did you make a vacuum table? Thanks been an idea I've had for a long time. I'd like to know more about that. Don't want to high-jack this thread so we might go to another if you have time to share. thanks, Bill
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Thanks Jo. Got it done. If y'all don't hear from me in awhile you know I followed Romey's solutions ... lol
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I’m getting an annoying pop open that says: Stop running this script? A script on this page is causing IE to run slowly. If it continues to run, your computer may become unresponsive. Yes/No ... are the choices it gives you. It doesn’t matter whether I choose Yes or No it appears again after a little while. I’ve run Ad-Aware and SpyBot S&D, cleaned up my temp files and defragged my C: drive and and it does not seem to resolve it. Is this a trojan or something like that?