Suicide

Hi guys, What is the best practice there if I'm working with veg tan leather (usually tooled/stamped)? Who should go first? NF? Finish? No matters? So far I usually apply all the makeup first (dyes, stains, antiques and finally finishes) right after tooling, then come to conditioning (NF/EVO/SSoap etc). It usually goes well, but often leather still stiff after couple of oil layers + soap on top of it, especially thick one 8-10 oz. So I'm not sure If I use oils right. Any advices and sharing expirience are very apreciated! Cheers!

Good catch! I'll give it a shot, thanks!

Thanks, Rick! And sorry guys forgot to mention I am using Tandy http://www.tandyleather.eu/en/product/waxed-linen-thread-25-yds There is no white available now (may be by reason??), but mine white was stocked up here couple of years ago.

thanks for all your feedback, guys! Unfortunately switching to off white often is not an option because cutomer just want it white All I can say it is not a dye residiques (coz I tried undyed leather), not hitting a floor with thread (usually I'm not using thread longer than 1,5-2 m). Actually such short pieces make things even worse - if stitching line is long enough you can see on the finished project set of intervals starting with pure white color and then became grey after some distance, then same starts over and over I suspect it might be sort of chemicals they used for tanning a leather there. I can not be sure however coz I always use the only the same leather comes from Tandy (can not say it has a great quality but it is easiest to get here), have not tried other manufacturers yet. Cheers!

Hi guys! I have annoying problem with white color thread. Stitch starts as white, then tend to change its color. First I thought it is picking up a dye, but stitching latest project i had just plain natural veg tanned item and was ending up with grayish or completely grey thread after about 10-15 cm from each starting point. I dunno.... Hands are clean, awl is clean and waxed periodically, wax is clean white. Any tips how to keep white waxed thread WHITE while stitching? or it is not feasible in a real life? Cheers!

Indeed. Thats what designer answered in a backtalk about hamering on the lip.

Hi folks, Just suddenly came across this great step-by-step "how to" for making that sort of workbench. I think it might be useful for someone who short in space, doing demo/keeping workshops etc etc etc It might not be as solid as 18th century Royal desk, but easily reconfigurable, extendable, fits in car etc etc etc All the credits to the author, please Click here!

Hi Chavez, Unfortunately haven't yet. But based on my investigations even for Boss cutting board isn't enough as a base. All the fixing options I have seen till now were any sorts of tables/benches but not just a boards. I also don't like much the stitch it is making on the wrong side of an item. Front side stitch is pretty ok though. I also couldn't find any meaningful solution to get stitch laid into a grooves having that grooves on the both side of the piece. It apeared there is of course no problems with the front side, but again with the back side there is 50x50 that the stitch lies into premade groove. So currently I actually brush up my handstitching skills

Nice summary especially for beginners, great job. Thanks!

Hi guys, Desided to jump into your thread. John, Go for Bison/Buffalo with no any doubts, as Sylvi suggested. You'll get the most soft, well-breatheable, durable and comfly boots which will last indoor use for ages. Just make them snug enough, as snug so won't even feel comfortable with them for first 2-3 days of wearing. After that mocs will stretch and will be "just right" for your feet. Otherwise, if they "just right" right off your sewing table, they'll get very loose after day or two.

Hi, Yep, I think understood the problem, but have seen such the only once. That guy made a mistake while cutting a leather - he put pattern on the hide by diagonal (a bit) and got ugly mocs - while wearing these mocs always try to turn aroun the foot. Not the only toe but also a heel. Might it be your case? Also I always do mocs very very tight. I usually explain to customers these not "too small" for them but must be so tight so they even might feel a bit pain while first 2-3 days of wearing. If mocs "just right" from the first minute, then they are going to get loose in next 2 days and may to be deformed in the way you have described. To add stiffness to a heel I often use hard braid (like for instance round mexican braid) on the heels - please see picture attached. It reinvorces a lot.

Great belt,design and finishing. I like it has no borders. Great job!

Wow! Thats great! Agreed on hooks

Nice! Also color is awsome!

Thanks!

Thanks, Cheryl! Very appreciate.

Thanks!

BTW I have found pretty interesting stuff going down from link you have recommended. http://www.nativetech.org/clothing/pouch/puzzlepouch/puzzlepouchinstructions.html Probably worth to try that puzzle pouch!

Wow! Thanks alot for these links, very interesting!

Thanks! And good to know about beads using.

Google-translate can do this kind of magic Toki onnistuu, mut vähän myöhemmin. Nykyään oon valitettavasti töissä 18/7, ei oo aikaa edes sännöllisesti lukea tätä forumia. ( Itse asiassa nämähän pussukat ovat odottaneet valmistamista Joulusta asti )

Thanks, Chansey! I didn't realize sinelli has them. thanks for it.

Hi everybody, Couple of pouches in NA style I just have made. More images are in my gallery