Bluesman

This is a sling I made off of my prototype pattern. All in all I'm pretty happy with it. I need to make some adjustments in my layout and the dye job. The lettering gets lost in the dark dye. I used 8/9 oz with a padded 2/3 oz suede lining. I even made my own keepers. The finish is Feibling's spirit tan with a top coat of hand rubbed beeswax and neetsfoot oil. For the stitching I used 207 top and bobbin. Thanks for looking and as always critiques are welcome. Jon

After giving this some thought I figured it was a timing issue. I took some scrap which was dyed last week, some pieces which were dyed two days ago and one of my failed coasters. I cut all of them in half and then wiped the edge with a white rag. The piece dyed last week had little to no dye residue come off. The second one dyed two days ago showed some dye coming off and the failed coaster did as well. It seems that there is residual dye in the center of the piece that is still wet. Even thought the top is dry and rubs off no dye, the center is the culprit. Until I get this timing down I'm going to dye a scrap piece along with all of my projects. This will be cut and tested to see if the dye is dry all the way through. I then sewed up the two which showed some dye on the rag and yup, dye on the thread. Hope this helps someone from ruining a good project.

Yup...........got no response so I get kept experimenting............Got It now...........You just got to.................

Tried it again and that worked..............Perfect.................Thanks...............

I am working on some small projects practicing stitching on my Cobra 4. To date I made some coasters using drum dyed 8/9 with a 2/3 backing and the stitching stayed clean. I made up two CC holders one dyed saddle tan (oil) and the other mahogany (regular spirit). The pieces dyed for two days and then I rubbed them down until no more dye was coming off. I finished them with a mixture of bees wax and Neastfoot oil, hand rubbed with a heat gun. Again they dried for a day and I rubbed them down again. At this point I glued on some 2/3 lining and then the two pockets. These sat over night to dry. Today I trimmed them up, sanded the edges and laid out a stitch line. I used some 138 white with a #23 needle and the machine set for a 4mm stitch length. Aside from the fact I need to work on my corners, on both cases the dye bled onto the thread after rubbing and finishing the edges. I have made many projects in the past, even some dyed black and had them stitched by a friend on his machine and never had this problem. What am I missing? Thanks, Jon

Got it. Works now

I got my new Cobra and am getting familiar with it. Today i wound a bobbin and wanted to increase the wind speed. So I watched the video, both the one that came with it and another on the Cobra site. Seemed simple enough. So i pressed and held the down button and it said 5.0. Then I pressed the down button again and it said 12. I hit the up arrow until I got 24 and the speed was much faster and I wound the bobbin. Now I want to go back to were I was which was 5.0 and 12. Well now I can't get back. When I hold down the down arrow I get 5.0 but hitting the up arrow it goes 5.1, 5.2 5.3 and so on. Then I also get L0, L1, L2. So what is all of this stuff, A manual would have really been nice. The videos brush over this area real quick. So can somebody tell me this. 1.) What is the 5.0, 5.1, 5.2 setting 2.) What is 6 - 24 3.) What is L0, L1, L2 And how do I get to them and what do they all do for me. This is way more confusing than it needs to be. Thanks Jon

Let me know how it comes out. I have a similar project so I am interested in what you fiind out.

I'd try some scrap. The difference is what 2/3 oz? I would think that even with a tighter tension you should be okay and it should ride over the thin spot.

I'm not following you. I use it for inlays. When i do that I grind down the calcium to the flesh about 3/8" around for a bond line. That gives me 3/16" of stitch line.

Machine stiching and hand stiching. You might be onto something. A hot iron may melt the calcium to give it that bead look.

Either that's not real Ray or the edges are rolled. I've used plenty of Ray and that can't be burnished to my knowledge.

I have condensed this thread down to the specific comments that make for a useful document. I have it here for all to download as a PDF. Thanks for all the input. Sewing Machine Guidelines for Leather, Thread and SPI.pdf Sewing Machine Guidelines for Leather, Thread and SPI.pdf

Excellent job............real nice.

Not sure is this is the right place but I had to post this. I just ran across a messenger bag tutorial by Arthur Porter on You Tube. This is well worth the time all 7 parts. I also subscribed to his channel he has many more. Here's a link to part 1.....enjoy

Thanks folks. I love to over-think the obvious.

Well as long as this may be a sticky. how about this. Which direction does the needle thread come off the spool? If I pull it from the back the spool turns clockwise. If pulled from the front the spool turns counter clockwise. i'm asking because I've read the comment "left" and "right" hand wrap. How does this enter into the equation. The thread I will be using is coming from Cobra.

Thanks Wiz....excellent primer. Just what I'm looking for.

JL thanks just what I'm looking for, guidelines and opinions. yes the Cobra goes down to a 138 thread. Actually not a lot of questions just trying to put together a recipe so when I want to do something I have at least a starting point.

In anticipation of my new machine many things race through my head. I've found the various thread to needle size charts but am still wondering if there is a 'Rule of Thumb" you stitchers use when using varying leather wights. I bought a Cobra 4 and it will do 6 oz to 7/8" of leather. I will be getting several spools, of different colors in both 207 and 277 along with #23, #24 and #25 leather point needles. Now for the question. Is there a chart or something in somebody's head that could fill in the blank? Leather project OZ - ????? Recommended Needle - ???? Recommended thread - ????? Recommended SPI - ???? I understand that experimentation is the key however just looking for some guidelines to start with. For example. I want to do a project composed of a 4/5 oz top, 2/3 oz liner and another 2/3 oz pocket. So the total project is about 8 - 11 oz total. What needle/thread and SPI would you start with? Part of the project will just be the 4/5 oz top and the 2/3 oz liner. But I want to stitch it complete so the total weight will vary as I stitch along. Thanks in advance, Jon

First machine

Just got off the phone with Steve and ordered the Cobra 4 Premium with all of the extra goodies in the box. Added additional spools of 207 and 277 in white, black and natural and some more 10 packs of 23, 24 and 25 needles. Have read just about everything on here over the past several years on machines and want to thank all of you folks for your input. I can't wait. Will be gluing together all kinds of small samples to run on the new machine. I'll post pics when it arrives....

it's already moved there.........thanks for your input I really appreciate it. I'll share what I do with you through a PM..........

118 views and nobody has any input except one person..............Really...........REALLY...........I thought this was How Do I.....

Thanks buddy