bruce johnson

A curved awl would work if you sew with bristles. I just did them with straight awls and and angled the holes. I left the stitches really loose and then tightened everything once it was turned back in and butted up. Seems like most I have seen are sewn about 3 spi, so goes fairly fast.

It is a hidden stitch. You sew through the partial thickness of leather from the flesh side. It is a pretty common deal on a lot of production saddles. I have done it a few times on some repairs where one side has broken down.and it isn't all that hard. I left my stitches a little loose and then took out the slack once I turned it in. Still I prefer a welted seam.

Pete, changing gears from a skiver to a splitter, the pull through splitters usually do best if the leading edge is over the center of the roller. Some still do better slightly behind though, just need to play with that. One thing to check is to make sure there isn't a bevel on the bottom of the blade. That is the usual reason leather runs under a blade. Another reason is if the blade tips up a little from something being off on the frame. . That can be hard to tell sometimes.

Hard to say, but I'd check the blade and make sure it is sharp and the bevel is good. After that, I would crank some leather through while you have the blade off to see if it feeds straight. If that's good, then check to see if the balde edge is up close to the rollers. I am not by mine right now, but most of them have a stop for the corner of the blade to rest against and set the forward edge position. After that just fiddle around with blade angles and guide positions to get it where you want to be. I haven't ever seen a manual anywhere. The only manual for the bench machines I know of is for the Landis 30 crank splitter.

I have a maul from Bearman, a couple from Barry King, and four from Wayne Jueschke. They each have their merits. If you ever get down this way, you are sure welcome to come by and try them all. Reading your interests below your avatar, we can kick around some western history and Charlie Russell too.

Springfield Leather has them.

I had kind of forgotten to tell my wife I bought 'em the other day after I commented on them. They came today. You know how they say that somethings look better live than in pictures? Here's another example. These are BEAUTIFUL!!! Yeah the color is a real rich chocolate brown. That is only part of the story. The workmanship is topnotch, the pictures don't lie there! Braids are straight down the line and the knots are true as well. Smooth as silk. They feel really good in my hand, can't wait to get them on a horse! Thanks!!!!

I have a Ferdco 2000 which might be different than some of the other clones as far as what is on the bottom. When I put on the stirrup plate, I put on the right toe foot, back off the tension one turn and go to it. That's all I have to do. Sews good just like that.

Trox, Not fakes. I don't known when these were made, but have had quite a few of them. I have never seen the "CS Osborne Made In England" on anything but punches though - strap ends and slots. They appear all in the world like they were made in the same style as Dixons. Good steel in them. On the strap end punches the walls are thicker than the domestic CSOs.

Hackamore would be nice too, I'd like a medium stiffness 5/8 but could go for a smaller 2 rein size too. . Got enough string left?

I really like those Brett. Sure bet they will really look even better after a year of using them.

Just sent you a PM. Thanks!

Yeah, best I have seen, except for maybe the one you just posted. These look like they were tooled with the pattern foremost. Without stepping on other's toes, these are designed and executed to show off the leather tooling and not acrylic paint, spots, and crystals. Good for ya!

How many do you need? I have seven 1" and one 3/4". I don't make tiedowns anymore, so I'd part with them for $10 each - take them all.

Best bronc halter I have seen.

I'll take it for that. How do you want to be paid?

Anne, I used one like that for a long time but yours looks a little more finished. The only thing I'd add is a spring to pull the bar up. Otherwise you are always bending over to pull the bar up. I also cut a long wedge from a 2x4 to make adjusting easier for inbetween hole tensions. Just slide it in under the pin and tap it in to increase tension. Great for stretching and setting stirrup leathers on the tree. I ran a section of 4x4 fence post through the stirrups, and it was crosswise under the bar, Just increase tension a bit at a time and they stretch and set pretty well.

Sheridan Leather Otfitters has them in the three piece sets. They have them in #9, #12, and #14 sizes.

I use the stirrup plate for sewing gussets in bags and cases. The tighter radius makes it easier to sew into, through, and out of the 90 degree corners. I wouldn't be without it. I use the holster plate very rarely, usually sewing in gussets in saddle bags, although not really 100% necessay.

Cop out answer - I use both for thread in #207 or smaller. My offset one is the larger version of the two offsets TLF sells. I don't have a real preference for the straight runs, but the centered one is my grab for curving lines. I will qualify by saying on the offset one I have modified the blade some. I ground off a little to each side of the hole and that lets it make a narrower and slightly deeper groove than it came. The centered one came like that. There has been some discussion about the cutting holes not always being centered or too high on the shaft so YMMV. For larger thread I use an older CS Osborne compass groover. It cuts a nice narrow and deeper groove in one pass.

Canada and England seem to be the slowest. Express Mail goes through pretty fast, but Priority can sit for 10-14 days sometimes.

Jake, I have used a swivel knife some for that, but for lines I wanted to bury. A cut line tends to close up. It also tends to go deeper than I maybe want for most things. I just have more control on depth and groove width with a stitch groover.

A few tips and tricks. Contact cement gives a mostly immediate permanent bond if both sides are tacked up. If they are lightly touching you can sometimes lift them apart and go back. Once you press them with a slicker or hand pressure. they are usually stuck for good. You can reposition the pieces if one or both sides are wet with glue - not allowed to time to fully tack. Both sides wet give you more working time than one side wet/one side tacked. They need to be left alone for the bond to cure, but will sure stick. Rub them the next day and they are usually set for good. If the glue gets past the point of tacky and fully dry, many contact cements are heat activated. You hit them with a little heat from a heat gun and they get sticky again. If you need to peel apart something that was contact cemented, a heat gun works there to soften the bond sometimes - get a start, throw a little heat to it, peel back, throw some more heat, peel more. Some contact cements will loosen or not bond well with oily leather, some will (or used to). Might need to use temporary tacks or clips and while sewing or lacing. Some will delaminate later if just glued. If you need to mold something later you can put on a couple of thin coats of contact and let it dry good. Then dunk the piece and let it case up. Once you are ready to stick it, hit that glue with some heat to tack it up. Stick it down and go to molding - I do it for ground work on saddles and hear the boot and shoe guys do that for some sole applications. The heat gun I use and see in most shops is a paint stripping gun.I just fan it over the area. I use mine on low usually. Hair dryers never got it for me, I lack patience at some things.

Chrome tan chap leather is the usual. You can either use water, alcohol, or a mix of the two to wet the fringe. Then twist it tightly and let it dry. On the twisted fringe stuff I used to do I would twist three or four up, then use a binder clip on across the ends to hold them in place while they dry.

I haven't used any for a while but at least some were metric. I have some 4mm screws that fit those. If they are regualr threads, I am thinking 8/32.