bruce johnson

Most bisonettes should follow that curve but some won't depending on the angle they are bent at. A turnback edger and a round bottom edger will do it.

I have added several round knives to my website tonight. There are some very nice old CS Osbornes. I also have a cool combination knife that Frank Ringel made. It is patterned after the "French pattern" knives made 100 years ago with the straigh side like a head knife and the trailing side like some round knives. There are some affordable users - a Weaver that is all but new it isn't unused. There are a few unmarked ones too. One guy who bought one told me was giving his name brand knife to his wife to frost cakes with after getting an unmarked one. I also added some patent leather tool/freehand stitch groovers. Osbornes with a bunch of length to them. There are quite a few fresh stitch markers too. There are the usuals and the unusuals. I have a Gomph #18 if you care to sew 18 to the inch and have the most elegant make of pricking wheels to mark them out. If you want a little looser work, there is a #15 Osborne pricking wheel instead. Lastly - fresh creasers and ticklers. Here is a link to the landing page for the the tools on my website - Leather Tools For Sale . Thanks, Bruce

Here are a few ways I use blood knots - bit hangers and concho holders on some headstalls, strap ends, and saddle strings.

A wise old man told me that the name came from pushing your knife through the string into your finger. Everybody has done it. On the other hand, I have personal experience with a tool called a string bleeder specially made to cut that slit. I was wearing flip-flops and had a string bleeder roll off my bench, do a 90 gegree turn, and land vertically stuck in the top of my foot like a yard dart. It was like slow motion and I still didn't respond. You know that big vein on your arch? String bleeders are on them like a heat seeking missile. It didn't bleed until I pulled it out, but then was a real stream. Wore a casing bag on my foot to get across the house to the bandaids. Cats that were around then are still traumatized if I rattle a plastic bag. The same wise old man told me you will never cut yourself if you have bandaids handy in your shop.

Bill, Kind of think of the software like a car. Every year they come out with new models, kind of like new versions of software. Things change a bit with every new version. After a while they stop supporting the old versions, kind of like not stocking OEM footswitches for the dimmers on '67 Chevy pickups anymore. Because of other changes in browsers like Internet Explorer, Chrome, FireFox, etc. the software has to change to keep compatible. Just like new cars, the controls are moved and things look different because we have gone from the '67 Chevy to a 2012 Explorer without some of the changes in between. Even the administrators don't know exactly how things are going to look or work until the new version is in. That is where things are at right now. The big things are being squared away, other changes are being found and dealt with. As far as the applications like the flags, think of those as the aftermarket accessories. They will be reinstalled on the new version, but the first priority was to get the new version up and running first. To further this car theme deal. I drive a 2002 Ford pickup. I know every control, can work them without looking. When I travel and rent something, it is an experience. If I can get the radio going and lights and wipers figured out in 10 minutes I am pretty pleased. Last year I changed the rear view mirror in Indianapolis and 10 seconds later was connected to OnStar. About time to turn the rental back in and I have them pretty well down. The new version of the forum will be that way too.

I am not much for change either, but with software it has to be updated occasionally. These forum wasn't built from scratch, it is on a software template. I don't think this particular version has been updated for a while. I am not a computer expert, but what I have found is that as the newer versions are developed, some of the previous features that I get used to aren't supported by the developers and you can end up with an orphan set up. Thye work with older browsers but not with new ones, and things like that. There are still some tweakings going on with options in the background, more apps to be added, so this isn't the final version but at least it is up and running with pretty minimal problems so far. Much happier than after the historic crash several years ago when everything was lost and a ton of hours were put in by Johanna and Kate to unscramble text and pictures and recreate the forum. The main thing I have noticed so far was the "view new content". On the new version mine was on a setting that didn't list posts once I had read them. I knew it was there an hour ago, but where is it now?? I found the setting on the left menu bar and it gives you lots of options.

The small Chuck Smith flower center bevler, braid center basket stamp, and set of decorative cut stamps are gone now.

Largest Chuck Smith mulefoot is sold. - Thank you!

The smallest Chuck Smith mulefoot, largest Chuck Smith center beveler, and Hackbarth flower center on the far left are sold now. Thank you!

Lutz, I happened to have this one saved in my picture files and was able to reload it. I do the same pretty much now, but use a Barry Kiing rope stamp instead of the Tandy or HideCrafter ropes.

I have a few stamps for sale. These are stamps that have come in sets of tools and are all duplicates or close enough to what I already have. They are all in good shape - not dings or damage. The Barry King baskets are his #4 largest size – $35 each The Barry King lined and scalloped veiner is probably what he is calling the 2 or 3 – they vary slightly within the same size – $20 Chuck Smith mulefeet – $15 each Chuck Smith flower center bevelers – $15 each Hackbarth flower centers – $35 Jeremiah Watt decorative cut stamps – all three for $40. They work nice for tight spots and to do the tips of acorns. They are tipped to make partial impressions Jeremiah Watt flower centers – $35 each Prices are firm and no discounts for volume. Shipping will be flat rate Priority Mail small box at $5.50 for any or all. Insurance is your option. These are first come - first served, I am going to request that you contact me by email only. It is a little tough to keep up with private messages, Facebook messages, and phone messages to determine who was first. I can take payment by either Paypal or credit/debit card. My email address is bruce (AT) brucejohnsonleather . com . Title the email "stamps" and I will surely appreciate it. I can take payment by PayPal or credit/debit card. For PayPal I will email a PayPal invoice so if your email address for PayPal is different then let me know that. For credit/debit cards, I need to take that information directly so please include a phone number and good time frame to call (with time zone) and I will sure try to get a call in there. Thanks, Bruce

If you could some dark string again - a bosalito.

I'd add undershots/lifters in a couple of sizes.

I am just glad the title says "Orders" and not "For Sale" or I'd be really tempted to get another pair. These folks ought to be pretty happy to get them.

I have added quite a few tools and things to my website today. There are 6 pull-through splitters, four vise mount rein rounders including a super cool Letchworth and Pratt, French edgers, edge bevelers, punches, hammers (nice saddler hammer), and more. Pretty much every section but knives and creasers has something new today. I also added a section in Miscellaneous for nail cups. These are the good old cast iron ones - Star, Progressive, Kupferle, and a really special one from Eli Golden. Here is a link to the landing page for the tools - Leather Tools For Sale . Thanks!

Welcome from a former Hoosier from Logansport, graduated Purdue.

Trox, Thanks for your insight and experiences, I appreciate it. I am still liking the Dixon style plough gauge knife that Terry Knipschield made for me. The edge has held up well and have only stropped it. As a heads up, I sent Terry a Blanchard plough gauge and he is getting the pattern for that style knife also. He is busy making knives for the Boot and Saddlemakers Show coming up and has a few other things going too. He is making a knife that is patterned after my favorite Rose. My wife said it came today, and the clock can't roll fast enough this afternoon anyway.

The same buckle is used on flank straps for bucking horses. I haven't got any for a while, but Lowy was the source I used in the US. I don't remeber the cost for sure, but think it was around $12 for both parts. OIf sopmeobdy in the US is looking here's a link to the buckle - Flank strap buckle .

Another great one!

I use a stirrup throat plate. It makes it much easier to get into and around the inside corners rolling over the smaller radius of that plate than the others I have.

The saddlemakers groover at least used to adjust wider than the other one.

Trox, Every time I think I have seen most of them, I get another. I sold a Blanchard last week that had the top thumbscrew adjustment tightener like the newer ones, but had a vertical slot for the roller and thumbscrew instead of the lever and cam. It came with a rosewood handle knife andn not the lighter color wood of late. Blanchard seemed to use rosewood or ebony/ebonized wood interchangeably in the older ones. . As far as using a Blanchard vs. Dixon I don't see a lot of differences. The blade angle is a factor and I think the Blanchards tend to run the leather down due to more of a slicing action. A good adjustment on the roller height compensates for that though. I there is some overkill in the Dixon design. They are too high and most people will never use the top half of the blade. Steel quality - I sure like the old Dixon steel. I am pleasantly surprised by the Blanchards though. Their older round knives and plough knives are good too. At least growing up here, we always heard about Sheffield steel or Solingen steel in our pocketknives and it was supposed to be a quality thing. No kid ever bragged about French steel. If it was around, we didn't hear about it. I am cutting with a Blanchard round knife right now that is just a dandy. I have had a few email discussions with long time plough gauge users and a few varied insights. It seems like most want the roller about 1 to 1-1/2 cm ahead of the blade at the bottom. They think it seems to flatten the leather into the blade and goes easier. A few want the roller as close to the knife as the can get it to feed directly into the blade. Some like to push down on the strip being cut and push, Others like to pull up slightly on the strip and a couple will pull a bit of a slight twist as they pull to tension the leather at the cut. Any thoughts on this? As far as bevels, I have heard from a few who want more bevel to one side or the other. Most seem to go with a blade beveled on both sides though. Most of the blades I get are beveled both sides. Another thing I see on Blanchard blades is a small notch on the bottom front of the blade. They seem to be on about a third of the blades. It lets the blade sit further forward in the slot and/or it lets the handle sit at a higher angle in the same slot position. They are low enough that the notch is down in the slot. and not up where the leather would contact the blade. Ever see this over there? One thing that pretty much everyone agrees on is that in use to watch the leather in contact with the fence instead of looking at the blade cutting. I found the same thing with a draw gauge. The natural tendency is the wacth the action at the blade cutting leather. If the leather is in contact with the guide, the blade will generally take care of itself. I cut a lot more consistantly after I was taught that.

Trox, They are OK for hard heavy leather, but for most leather straps a plough gauge or draw gauge is faster.

I have gotten cutters and feed wheels from Pilgrim Shoe Machine - Here's a link - Pilgrim Shoe Machine .

I would be willing to bet if you give it a week you will have a hard time finding it. Then like Dirtclod said, once you oil the saddle everything will even anyway.