bruce johnson

Joe, This has changed a bunch. Some charge a lower percentage. They make up for it in monthly fees of around $30, fees for the terminal/reader (lease or buy), supplies like paper for the terminal, processing fees for batch reports, contracts, etc. Now with rewards cards it adds another twist. They can charge one rate for debit, another for credit, another for rewards cards, etc. Then add in MC at one rate, Visa another, another for Amex, another for Discover and each card can vary from 1.75-4% within the same processor. It never penciled out for me to commit to a processor before Square. Square has no monthly fee, no reader fee, no supplies. On the downside they currently only accept cards within the US and receipts are sent to the customer's cell phone or email - no direct printing unless you do it on an IPad as I understand it.

I use Paypal a bunch and will continue to offer it. After reading Ferg's experience I just went back and looked at four sample transactions off Paypal this week to see exactly what I was getting hit for in fees. Two are international and two are in the US. International #1 - $375 invoice/$14.91 fees = about 3.96% International #2 - $426 invoiced/16.91 fees = about 3.7% US transaction #1 - $278 invoiced/$8.36 fees = 3% US transaction #2 - $221 invoiced/$6.71 fees = 3% I can live with that.

I too have recently signed up with Square and been happy. A guy from Square called a couple weeks after I got it to see if I had any questions since he noticed no activity yet. That is a plus, I don't HAVE to use it and doesn't cost me anything. . I won't be swiping many cards, but that added percent still makes it about even with Paypal fees I have had. The international guys still are going to have to do Paypal or wire transfers.

It was an Osborne #86. Looked very clean and worth the money.

For my heavier mauls on bigger stamsp no doubt the tapered is the way to go. On the lighter stuff, I don't see as much difference. I would also add that having a stamping bench that is a correct height for stamping standing up or sitting is a real benefit. I have had rotator cuff problems with both shoulders and the standing option makes it much easier with the heavier weights than resting my elbow and reaching.

David, There are some newer glues that are not as toxic. They behave a little differently though. I have not tried them because like you, I know how my current glue works and work around the problems. I do most of my glue applying outside. I am lucky that the back door out of my garage-shop opens into a covered deck. I do my glueing and oiling out there. I let the fumes offgas before bringing them in and sticking them. If I am glueing in the shop, then I use a respirator mask and ventilate.

Jeremiah Watt sells this stamp. It can be a hard one to run, and JW Wright does it about as well as anyone.

It sounds like your first one is a Chase type splitter and the one you just bought with the spring is maybe a #86 Osborne, although the Krebs have springs also. Andrew pretty much nailed the accepted definition, but some people use the term skiver and splitter interchangeably. A splitter will make a uniform thickness and a skiver will do a tapering cut. Both of what you are describing sound like splitters. There are a few that can both skiver or split. The Keystone or Osborne #84 have a handle that you can push forward with one hand as you pull the leather to make a tapering skive. Also a "Spittler" or Osborne #83 has a pliers handle that you can squeeze and push forward as you pull the leather to do the same thing.

I know Bob has had the boxes before in the past. Are the tools in the box or just the horse? Most of these have had the tools removed and just the box that makes into a horse. Still kind of cool. I passed on one at a military collectible shop with just the horse at $400. He said he usually gets them sold for $375-450 depending on condition. He told me he sold one with all the tools in it for $1800.

I sure like Kayak's system, that simplifies things a lot. One thing I'd say about me keeping track of the "big ticket" items is that it keeps me closely in tune with price changes in those materials throughout the year. That helps in a couple ways. It helps me figure my pricing for finished products. Also I get an idea of trends on how much of something like glue or oil I use in a year. Is it worth buying by the gallon or the quart next time, case or singles? I probably have about 40 individual things I keep track of, so it is not all that hard to keep current on.

I assume you are taking about the COGS sold inventory part on your Schedule C and not estimating pricing. When I was setting up the book keeping my advisor told me it was not as important exactly how you count the beans or which ones as long as you count them the same way from year to year. YMMV. I keep separate sheets on the things I choose to inventory. Each weight and type of leather has its own sheet. Same with things like dye, oil, and conditioners. I inventory my leather by the sq ft on the invoices. At the end of the year I eyeball how much I have left and count that. On liquids I go by the half bottle. If it is less than a half I don't count it. Hardware like saddle dees, I count by the piece. Small parts like rivets are turned over several times a year so I don't count individual nails or Chicago screws. I just count those purchases for the year.

. Suggestions from past overoilings have been - wrapping in paper, sawdust, kitty litter (oil-sorb clay litter), and other absorbants. Washing with Dawn will remove some oil. GoJo has been suggested too. Like Brent said, none of these are going to be fast. Not to sound like a wise-a**, but the fastest way is going to be just making it over.

If there is a number 85, then it is a CS OSborne blade for sure and little doubt the whole thing is an Osborne. The blades are not very interchangeable between the different makers of these. On the Krebs labeled ones they are not always interchangeable between themselves.

If there is no tags on it, there is a good chance it is a CS Osborne. I have had Krebs tagged ones with an oval tag on the frame next to the drum. The JD Randalls have a tag on the right side of the frame. The Osbornes are stamped on the blades, usually a number "85" and CS Osborne..I am trying to think if any had maker lettering as part of the casting. Not sure on that. I am also not for sure when Osborne stopped making them. They recently started making a version of them again.

I bought a Boss not too long after they came out. At that time the only machines that could sew anything close cost over $5000. I used the snot out of it. I did belts, saddles, tack, spur straps, checkbooks, purses and everything from thin to thick. I did a lot of doubled and stitched latigo reins. It was easy to learn - my son and wife sewed a lot for me. Eventually I got a used Adler and sold the Boss. I'd agree with Art, after a guy has handsewn a mile or two, the Boss was like a joining the space age. That got fatiguing after a while too though. Getting the Adler was a similar step up. The big advantage of the Boss is the lack of space needed and no power requirements. If you are learning to sew, the ultimate control is a plus. That was also before the servo motors were affordable too. I don't begrudge the Boss back then,. If I was doing it now, with the servo motors and the lower costs on the powered machine, I'd go with one of them over a Boss. No question.

To answer your question - yes those nails are used. I see them in several saddles. The Dale Chavez saddles (not to be confused with Robert Chavez) were a production made saddle and I had a trophy saddle from them. One of the worst riding saddles I ever rode until I sold it. The lady that bought it needed shorter fenders. I made the fenders a lot narrower and took out some of the forweard stirrup slot to help them at least have some forward reach. It rode a little better.. The stirrups were still sort of behind me though. They are usually tooled OK for the patterns they use. Edges are barely beveled, edge dye slopped over some. More than one has had the swell cover not molded very well and wrinkles down low that showed. Normally a sofa foam padded seat. They are a show saddle and were in the mix with the Silver Mesas and the other rail riding saddles.

Andrew, If you just want to clean it, then take the blade off and have somebody steam clean it. Mechanics usually have a steam cleaner. Oil it up well afterwards. If you want to take it down and repaint the frame and parts that gets a lot more involved in a hurry. There are all kinds of little fasteners that hold them together - square keys, set screws, etc. It has been about a year since I stripped one down, so I can't remember off the top of my head what fasteners are where on them.

Awesome. One question, where is the leather storage? On another note, there are a few of us that have bandied about definitions for the terms "studio" vs. a "shop". Guys, this is a studio.

Clay, I am sure sorry to hear that and my condolences too. I know you were very close. You have honored him well with your friendship and your work, as well as passing on what he has shared with with you. Bruce and Rundi

I have bought tooling leather in weights, skirting, latigo, chap, oiltan, bison, a horsefront, and apron splits off the top of my head from Maverick. They carry Horween, Thoroughbred, Wickett and Craig. They are a couple hour drive away, and I have made a few trips over or stopped by when we have been in the area. Most of the time I phone order and am close enough for next day delivery. You talk to live people on the phone. What they tell me is what I get.

You boot and shoe guys amaze me. That is just way too cool to be able to do that and come out looking just as nice. Congrats on a great job!

It is not a stamp, but some people use an overstitcher on cased leather.

Andrew. Some of the blades are flat and some are slightly hollow ground. I go off the back edge of the bevel and the tip to set my angle. Sometimes I am doing the whole face if flat and sometimes it is just the first bit of the blade and the back edge if it was hollow ground.

If you have it stored in a cool place it may also be spew that is a waxy kind of feel that can seep out of the leather when cold. Some of the oils and waxes in the leather can solidify and sit on the surface. A quick and easy way to tell is to hit the piece with a little heat like a hair dryer. If it melts and soaks right in, it is spew and not a concern. If it sits there, probably mold.

Andrew, I would at least clean up the rollers on it. The bottom one will come out easily. You can wipe them with either some steel wool or fine wet-dry.