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My individual Craftool Pro Fine Diamond Stitching Punch 88057-08 shipped to me is a pretty nice punch and the pointed tips are sharp enough out of the box. I personally chose to gently hone the angles flats in between the prongs / teeth as they were getting stuck easily. With the larger thread size I should get a decent looking stitch as the teeth / prongs are pretty wide. Various thread size recommendations will be greatly appreciated. So far people have suggested Tiger thread .6mm - .8mm 1.0mm I have seen someone use the stitching pony in a video to support the leather when pulling the chisel straight out. I used a dirt cheap Revlon diamond nail file wrapped with a folded strip of 400 wet dry and it worked fine with no glue needed as the diamond grit held the sandpaper in place. The angled space in between the prongs or teeth is easily honed and polished using slow controlled strokes with light pressure. It took approximately 44-50 minutes to remove most of the machining marks. To preserve metal, strength and tooth geometry I personally chose not to go crazy honing and removing enough metal to obtain a glass smooth surface like I do on my professional hand plane irons finished with 1000 and 2000 grit that are razor sharp. When honing in between the prongs or teeth stop and take measurements of the flat area of each prong near the radius and the tip, measure both sides. Also slip a steel machinist ruler along the angled prong / tooth and measure the length. I did not hone or polish the diamond pointed tips, flat handle surfaces or the flats shown above the ruler. Good luck. If needed practice you filing and sanding skills on some junk scrap metal first.

Thanks for the post. Those are great results. Did you use a stitching groove or just scribe a faint line? I just got my chisel in the mail today and had a few questions. What size and type of needle with that thread ? Did you hone or smooth the inside edges of the chisel prongs or use wax on them? So far I found that going through 2 layers of 1/8" leather the chisel would get stuck in there pretty bad. So far I have had to punch one layer at a time leaving a mark for the next.

I'm a beginner and could use some advice as to which diameter thread or lace to use with my diamond chisel. I recently purchased the Craftool Pro Fine Diamond Chisel 3.5mm. 88057-08 Its sharp and easily punches through 2 layers of leather fine. Removing the tool and is a little difficult despite the tools price. The Craftool Pro Fine Diamond Awl 3.5mm made 7 diamond shaped slots or stitches per inch in the White leather scrap and don't look all that good. The slots it punched are much wider than my Chinese import. I used the same 150 speedy stitcher waxed thread for both leather scraps shown in the photo. My imported diamond punch from China made 8 stitches per inch nice or ok looking stitches with the same thread in the Brown leather. The only difference was the leather scraps used. Take note that the prongs on the Craftool are larger in width than the Chinese import. Both punches were held and used vertical. No stitching groove was cut. I used my stitching pony, I threaded 2 needles stitched as shown on a tandy video.

I recently purchased the Craftool Pro Fine Diamond Awl 3.5mm. It punches through 2 layers of leather fine. However removing the tool and its prongs is another story with or without hard beeswax rubbed on the prongs. The Craftool Pro Fine Diamond Awl 3.5mm prongs made 7 diamond slots / stitches per inch in White leather and didn't look good with 150 speedy stitcher waxed thread. My imported diamond punch from China made better 8 stitches per inch with the same thread in the Brown leather.

My hands and I don't tolerate an awl and awl haft very long without feeling pain later. Many stitching punches are poorly described leaving people in the dark. Here is what I found out when I received my order and opened the package. I'm asking other leather crafters to took the time to post their favorite brand, spacing and results. My results are limited for now as I'm waiting on # 150 heavy waxed thread and needles to ship. I just received my Craftool Pro Fine Diamond 3.5mm 88057 01 and 08 tooth in the mail today and I'm impressed with the quality and that they are sharp. I have not tried the holes made with waxed thread in punched leather yet (still getting supplies shipped) My first diamond stitching chisels were imported to the US from China and produced a nice 8 stitches per inch. Anyhow my Craftool pro fine stitching punch 3.5mm dimensions are nowhere near 100% accurate as in tool and die. They are approximate measurements using a steel rule and cheap imported h f digital caliper. Single punch tine thickness shoulder to shy of the tip 0.041"- 0.055 1.09mm -1.51mm Single punch tine tapered width 0.123" 0.125" 2.63mm -3.08mm Tine length 3/8" 9mm, Handle length 4 1/2" 114mm, Handle width 5/16" 8 mm, Handle thickness 3/16" 4.68mm The Large Stitching Punch is 1 3/16" width and tip to tip is 0.144 & 4mm. Using folded paper as a feeler gauge in between the times on an angle 0.38" -.040" The photo shows the tines markings into cardboard because leather closes up. The craft tool pro 8 tooth stitching punch (is approximately 7 stitches per inch) The holes it made are approximately 5/32" center of diamond to center of diamond. The corner of diamond to corner of diamond is approximately 1/8" Compared to the un-named Chinese import corner of diamond to corner of diamond 1/16" with 1/8" approximately spacing with 8 stitches per inch. If you have a favorite brand or quality diamond stitching chisel that doesn't break your piggy bank and makes your work look great or favorite spacing please speak up and post some images. I still have to order some thread to get started.

Wet dry sandpaper glued to a cheap thin metal 6" ruler should do the trick for larger spacing.

I read somewhere leather is like your skin and needs proper care. There is nothing wrong with treating it with a natural product.

My hands and I don't tolerate an awl and awl haft very long without feeling pain later. Many stitching punches are poorly described leaving people in the dark. Here is what I found out when I received my order and opened the package. I'm asking other leather crafters to took the time to post their favorite brand, spacing and results. My results are limited for now as I'm waiting on # 150 heavy waxed thread and needles to ship. I just received my Craftool Pro Fine Diamond 3.5mm 88057 01 and 08 tooth in the mail today and I'm impressed with the quality and that they are sharp. I have not tried the holes made with waxed thread in punched leather yet (still getting supplies shipped) My first diamond stitching chisels were imported to the US from China and produced a nice 8 stitches per inch. Anyhow my Craftool pro fine stitching punch 3.5mm dimensions are nowhere near 100% accurate as in tool and die. They are approximate measurements using a steel rule and cheap imported h f digital caliper. Single punch tine thickness shoulder to shy of the tip 0.041"- 0.055 1.09mm -1.51mm Single punch tine tapered width 0.123" 0.125" 2.63mm -3.08mm Tine length 3/8" 9mm, Handle length 4 1/2" 114mm, Handle width 5/16" 8 mm, Handle thickness 3/16" 4.68mm The Large Stitching Punch is 1 3/16" width and tip to tip is 0.144 & 4mm. Using folded paper as a feeler gauge in between the times on an angle 0.38" -.040" The photo shows the tines markings into cardboard because leather closes up. The craft tool pro 8 tooth stitching punch (is approximately 7 stitches per inch) The holes it made are approximately 5/32" center of diamond to center of diamond. The corner of diamond to corner of diamond is approximately 1/8" Compared to the un-named Chinese import corner of diamond to corner of diamond 1/16" with 1/8" approximately spacing with 8 stitches per inch. If you have a favorite brand or quality diamond stitching chisel that doesn't break your piggy bank and makes your work look great or favorite spacing please speak up and post some images. I still have to order some thread to get started.

When a good hammer handle is a little loose. Remove any rubber, rawhide, plastic ect and submerse the hammer head in linseed oil the wood will swell. Wipe off the excess and let dry. Dispose of the linseed oil rag properly and safely to prevent a fire.

A few hours later this evening I found The Thread Exchange website. Maybe use library computer if available. From home page hover over industrial thread and select red nylon thread guide and to the far right under information is nylon thread guide buying guide. Nylon Sizes....Low number is smaller in diameter and not as visible. As thread numbers increase more force will be needed. Purses, handbags 46, 69, 92,138 Wallets 33, 46,69,92,138 Needles 110/18 & 110/19 for threads 69, 92 ... Needle 80/12 for threads 15, 33 .....Needle 90/14 for threads 33,46 Needle 130/21 for thread 138 Hopes this helps.

I share your pain. The leather craft hobby is expensive. I purchased my stitching punch from the other side of the world. Hong Kong with free shipping and guess what? The inexpensive $10 punches I purchased save me big money and were packed well and are sharp enough that they work. Some light tapping or light pounding depending on the leather thickness and I have some stitching holes. I don't have the fancy board for punching holes. I just glued 2 heavy pieces of 8-9 oz leather and put them under the project to protect the sharpened tips. The other product I personally like is the inexpensive name brand Speedy Stitcher Sewing Awl that has a bobbin inside the handle. Making the stitching pony was the easiest project me being a woodworker. Just some scrap 3/4" plywood, a belt sander and some wood glue and scrap leather for the jaws and a big bolt. A ratchet wrench makes tightening it quick. Hey an adjustable or open end will do fine too whatever you have. Just do a search for leather stitching punch.

Stop buying the non-magnetic leather stamps sold by the thousands and make your own personal stamp designs and never sell them or loan them to anyone. If you want to carve a pattern no-one else has ever carved. Close you eyes and carve the stupid leather.

The Great Courses has at home photography instruction that can be streamed or on dvd. Photoshop elements is good and is approx. $79.00

Leather is expensive in general. Remnant bags at the popular chain wide craft stores can be purchased with a 40% coupon. These remnant bags often times have a few nice thick pre dyed leather pieces sometimes large enough to make a short handled "fly swatter." and some poodle collars. I personally use the Speedy Stitcher sewing awl and a Stitching Punch Tool 1+2+4+6 10 Prong 3/4/5/6mm. Making enough profits to pay for an industrial sewing right now I doubt I would. The Tippmann Boss looks heavy enough to make "fly swatters". Have fun and good luck

Very important bring the leather with you to the dealer so they can demonstrate the results and limitations of their machines. I researched and looked sewing machines 5 years ago and just didn't have the money. I haven't chosen a machine mainly because leather is so expensive and there was no guarantee my projects would pay for the machine. A cylinder arm, compound feed or walking foot machine is what you are looking for. I prefer an open arm machine vs a flat bed. Also call the toll free manufacturer they are very polite and informative. Many used sewing machine dealers refurbish old machines and even re-paint them. Some dealers may say anything to make a sale or are too busy to answer a few simple questions. Tip. A heavily used machine will have the paint rubbed off near the needle plate. This however does not mean the machine will not function. Finally the bobbins maximum capacity relates to thread diameter and how many inches you can actually stitch before winding another bobbin. Next is the arm length you need or desire. Other factors are...Maximum needle size the machine can accept and maximum presser foot height. I'm unsure if a walking foot will leave teeth marks on your projects. Ask many questions and if the salesperson gets annoyed because you asked a few detailed questions just walk out and buy your machine from someone else. These machines can be expensive don't get pressured into buying the wrong one. Oh don't be fooled by people putting slightly tougher motors on antique household sewing machines then calling them leather sewing machines. Good luck

I dipped a piece of dyes leather for 4 seconds into cold water and it took 12 hours to come close to normal color and the imprint isn't deep. The leather left the granite surface plate was moist too. This method seems somewhat opposite of the sponge video and leather craft book. Also some people say I should not practice stamping on pre dyed what looks like 5- 7 oz leather veg scrap sold in mystery bags at the hobby stores. The pre dyed stuff seems to absorb water and darken when wet and returns to its previous shade though. Yet requires several strikes to make an imprint.

I tried rocking or tilting (not angling) a basket weave stamp as shown in a video and the stamp snapped right off. Some of the cheap brand name stamps found in hobby stores do not stick to a magnet and are porous like cement inside. Customer service sent me a more expensive replacement after e-mailing them a photo and it sticks to a magnet and performs better.

The made hard maple woodworking maul I created on my wood lathe is custom made for wood chisels only because I said so ! I am a master woodworker for more than 30 years. I easily chisel mortise and cut tenon joints by hand and they fit tight! Furthermore anyone capable of using a child's plastic ruler can plainly see that wood chisels typically have a 1" striking surfaces that properly distribute and transfer the striking force to the work. Its very profound that when a narrow leather tool 1/4" - 5/16" in diameter penetrates a maul with a wood striking surface, the striking force and energy created will diminished and wasted. Finally the wood maul's surface will be destroyed because of total ignorance and stupidity when it comes to the proper tool selection.

Just leave the wood lathe spur and center indentations alone and the plastic or rawhide can easily be cut off for resurfacing using a wood lathe and carbide wood turning tool.

I'm better at woodworking than leather craft. When a metal hammer head is loosening just the hammer head can to be submersed in linseed oil until the wood swells up tight in the eye of the hammer head. This probably will not work with rubber or plastics or rawhide though without damaging the mallet material. Then you simply wipe off the excess oil and let it dry. Do not use a un-natural, non-oil wood finishes such as shellac, varnish, oil or water based polyurethane and others that harden on or in the top layer the surface of the wood. Those finishes will not soak in deep enough becoming a nasty, sticky, hard mess that will ruin any hammer. Yes I too have noticed that pre-dyed leather takes a pounding just to make little progress when stamping. Mallets have a flat striking surface. Mauls have a round tapered striking surface, some mauls are cylindrical with no taper. I personally have found the mallets flat striking surface is easier to strike a 1/4" / 6 mm narrow stamp handle.

I have looked at a few weighted and non weighted mallet maul designs and find it difficult to ignore the high prices. I read a few comments about nasty indentations or accelerated wear developing in the plastic striking surfaces of mallets and mauls. Are there any replacement maul striking surfaces or plastic sleeves being sold for the so called "professional" mallets and mauls ? My personal preference is to avoid cash in the trash. A comfortable decorative palm size rock with a hard leather rawhide face glued onto it would probably do just fine and be easier on the wrist to boot. Both the garland and wiha split head mallets available use disposable hammer faces. . http://www.garlandmfg.com/mallets/faces.html https://www.wihatools.com/shop-tools/mallets/replacement-hammer-faces Those persons properly or successfully casing leather and stamping leather should share their opinion as to which mallet or maul will last or has lasted the longest before failing. I'm practicing some basics stamping on some dark brown 5/64" to 7/64" thick pre dyed random cut leather scrap sold in grab bags. I'm using a professional thick granite surface plate from woodcraft. Yes I moistened the leather with water and sponge like the tandy video enough for it to change shades and let return to its previous color approx. 6 minutes or less before attempting to stamp an impression into the leather. Also can pre dyed leather be stamped if the dye was water based?

I have looked at very expensive mallet maul designs. I have read a few comments about indentations developing fast in the plastic striking surfaces of some mallets and mauls. Are replacement maul striking surfaces sold or is it simply cash in the trash after the striking surface is messed up? Obviously garland and wiha split head mallets available that use disposable hammer faces. In your opinion which plastic hammer face will last longest before failing? http://www.garlandmfg.com/mallets/faces.html https://www.wihatools.com/shop-tools/mallets/replacement-hammer-faces I'm trying to practice stamping some moistened dark brown .088" to .100" thick looks like pre dyed leather the scrap stuff sold in craft store grab bags. I'm using a thick granite surface plate from woodcraft and moistened the leather with water and sponge and let return to its previous color.

That's pretty impressive, I would pick it up at a flea market. Its basically designed like a tall saw vice used for sharpening hand saws. Homemade jaws added to a Rockwell Jaw Horse work clamp then sit on a bar stool to use it.

I would like to know if I can add decorative stamping to a completed / finished / treated retail leather belt purchased at a local store. It is not bonded leather.