chiefjason

"I got into tying flies to save money", said no serous tier ever. lol I don't even tie much anymore but I have a tying desk full of stuff, a dresser beside it half full, and stuff in the garage to include assorted dead critter skins. lol All that to chase tiny trout.

I do all my brown holster mottled on purpose. I've figured out how to make it mostly repeatable, though I never try for exact anyway. I prefer my brown with some character and graduation of color. Have not messed with elephant yet though.

New school pistol buckets. Nice.

Stud in the strap with it poking through the back? That would be an interesting idea. I use them in a few things and have a buddy that uses them in his belt "buckle". The main issue would be getting the hole for the stud just right. That can be a bit finicky. Oh, and I hate thumb breaks.

You want fun, huh? I've never not sold an X frame holster I've made. lol I've made 3 for the X frame and one for a stealth hunter. Realistically, the S&W K and N frames do best for me. Took me forever to find an N frame mold, got one used from this site. And you have to be careful with the K frames. Most molds are the 38 special only frames with the bare ejector rod. The .357 one's have a beefed up underlug. I had to build my mold up a bit to make it work. That said, I still don't move a lot of revolver holsters. They can be fun though.

I just put the shoe rack in my dryer and run if for 40-50 minutes. I have a solar one I use for small stuff in the summer time if I don't want to use the dryer or don't need it fast. Mag holders and such mostly. Clear Plastic box with foil in the bottom, a small metal rack, and some holes in the top.

OK, it might take some imagination here. This holster is for a S&W X frame and it's cross draw. However, the trailing loop is the last thing I do here. So it would be easy to beef up the bottom trailing section. Making it a larger glued section lower on the frame. Stitch the back belt loop. Mold the holster to your liking. Then figure out the exact cant you want and place the rear loop and trim the holster to your liking. This assumes you are hand stitching the line around the firearm since it is done AFTER molding. But this is how I make my holsters. Obviously you will need to change some things, but this method might be helpful to you. One thing you will have to do first is figure the rough angle of the rear belt loop because you stitch that in. I do that with the cardboard. I make the full size pattern then draw in the reinforcement pieces. Then I re copy the full size pattern and trim out my reinforcement patterns from the first pattern. That give me a full size pattern and the pieces cut in exactly the shape I need of for the final product. Personally, I would do away with the cut out in front. At that high cant, the gun is coming out at an angle where that cut may not be necessary. As to the sweat shield, notice mine is stitched in with the reinforcement. That really stiffens things up which might help with this thing riding pretty high. Link to the build. BuildingThe Beast - S&w Stealth Hunter

No mold that I know of right now. The rail if full length, all the way to the front. And the frame is squared off without the cut out of the standard 1911. I've turned a couple down, but have not had a lot of requests for them. Unless you can get the gun, or fake the rail on a railed 1911 it's going to be hard to do a well molded holster. Maybe something more generic?

Just built one for a Taurus 605 that is my new woods gun. Behind with the snap on the front. Which leads to another question, can you actually make a thumb break that does not grab the cylinder or anything else? Hateful things. Think I'll require all revolver straps snap on the front from now on.

It's a good thing to be your own worst critic. Keeps you on your toes. I bring stuff in and show my wife, complaining the whole way. She usually looks at me and tells me to get over it. lol FWIW, since that leather looks a bit distressed anyway I bet you could have used a modeling spoon and worked it out. I've fixed worse.

I use mechanics gloves with the thumb and pointer finger cut at the knuckle. Helps with dexterity. I leave the rest full so I can use them to pull.

Yeah, I just bought one of the smaller ones from Index Fasteners. Looked at building one, but my skill level is a bit lacking in that category. It was not cheap but I really like it. Works great on kydex. I tried it for leather but I use 8-9 oz and just did not like the results. Plus introducing water into the vacuum pump means you have to change the oil more often.

Go here and look. This membrane is what I use. Don't really use it for leather though. Not cheap, but if you take care of them they last a long time. I've been using the current one for several months. http://www.ifithermoplastics.com/products/hd-industrial-design

Plinker, can't recall the punch number offhand but I cut the slots out with a 1.5" French skiving knife if that helps. Works like a charm. I have a punch but it's way too thin for a gun belt.

Hate to hear that. I know I picked up a lot reading his posts. Amazing artist for sure.

It's actually cream. Might be the sunlight playing tricks. But me things you might be messing with me......... Keep it up and I'll post the black with white lizard and white stitch. That one was, interesting.

Wrapped these up and customer is coming to get them Sat. S&W Airlight PD in .44 mag. High fiber optic front sight was particularly annoying. .32 Auto Luger, Erma-Werke, W German made. Cool little single clip IWB. Dwight inspired fold over from the trigger. 1911 Commander. Closed toe per customer request.

Take a sharp knife and pick the glue away carefully. Just dragging across it, not cutting. If you flake enough of it off the dye will take and likely work under the other glue. BTDT. It might take a few tries. And try to work that stitch line up under the trigger guard more in the future. That stitch line in particular keeps the gun from working too far into the holster as the leather loosens up. The closer the stitch is, the less it can move over time.

That first part is absolutely correct. I've learned tons here regardless of style. The second part is the subjective part. And it gets into personal preferences. I have repeat that come back because they prefer the flat back style over 50/50. I've got some that come back mainly because I can do custom work on their odd guns, but stay because they like the holsters. And I probably have a few that didn't like them and will not tell me. Gotta be a couple out there. On the maker side, they are different to deal with. Probably slightly more labor intensive. And tougher to make on a production level. Not impossible, but not as easy as a 50/50. I think that in itself accounts for why there is a smaller number of guys making them and the cult following. Then the cool factor of having something different. Never count that out. IN the end, if it holds the gun safe and secure and is easy to carry; that's what a holster is supposed to be.

So you are saying they ride tighter? That's crazy talk. lol

I've built a cult following making flat back holsters. I find them much more comfortable, to the point I can sleep in the recliner wearing a CZ75b. Or ride around in the car with it on all day. I even do my IWB holsters flat unless they are single clip fold over styles. And then I try to mold as little as possible on the back. I think OWB they ride tighter to the body too. The gun still stands off, and thickness is the same, but overall the back and loops ride tighter since the holster is not offset from the belt by the back mold.

Nice rig. Made one similar a while back. Definitely different looking, which was what the guy wanted. I think Springfield has some too, mine came in a scrap bag. About the biggest piece I've seen come in one.

I like that contrast stitching. Do a lot of it myself. Looks good.

Nice work. Just made my first hip quiver. Much different style though.

She does not need an arm guard, but I think 4H requires one. If they do I'll be making one. Working on a holder for her bow kickstand too.