chiefjason

For me, it depends. For repeat customers, buy the blue gun. For local gun board guys, buy the blue gun. If it's new and is getting good press, buy the blue gun and take the chance. For eBay, unless I think I'll move enough I turn it down. I probably have 45-50 blue guns. Maybe 2 I have not broke even on. Most I have done pretty well with. Cost of doing business, unless you want to just work from your collection. On real odd ball stuff I'll borrow the gun to make the holster. On rare occasions they can bring it buy and leave the same day while I'm left to finish the holster. Main problem there is the fit check is done when they return with the gun. You'll want to check local laws on gun possession or private party transfer.

OK, first this is my way. Not the only way. Feel free to add to, post your way, or ask questions. This is just what I have settled on. After several thread, PM's, and responses I figured I would take some pics since it was on my mind and I had some orders to work on the last couple days. Cardboard pattern and cutting. The back panel is close to my final shape. The front panel is cut for the top to be set as the top of the holster pocket with the extra being added to the sides and some to the bottom. You can see the extra width here. Tracing the pattern of the gun on the underside of the front panel. This helps me start my molding process. The tracings on front and back. Honestly, I start with the back. Get the gun where I want it for cant and grip, trace. Then lay the front on, get it right, flip, and trace. Molded. Force dry on the shoe rack for 40 minutes for one, 50 minutes for 2. Weight the edges to keep them from curling up. I put the gun on the back panel, lay the front molded panel on, do any arranging or tweaking, then lay out my glue lines on the front and back panel. Keeps me from getting glue where it's not needed like in the pocket. Glued. Put together. Trimmed out. Yes they are a bit different. I don't sweat wanting things absolutely, perfectly, exact. That will probably turn some folks off of this style. For me, it's part of it. I've not gotten any complaints.

I get no rub off with oil dye. And if you don't get the groon neutralized it will continue to work on the leather and eventually rot it. Over time I have had some grooned leather do some weird things. I've been very happy with oil black.

I took a bunch of pics today. Worked up 2 holsters. I want to get them trimmed and ready to stitch before I post anything. Maybe next couple days. OP, one thing that helps me is to use a bone folder and run a line for your stitch line beside the gun while molding. Then you just use a groover on the line when you set your stitch lines. Creasing the leather keeps the mold for the top panel from releasing and raising up. If you force dry the leather, weight the edges or they can raise up too.

Yeah, it's not rocket science once you wrap your head around it. More like a face palm and why didn't I figure that out sooner. lol Looks like I have another order for a Taurus so I'll take some pics in process. Try not to give away all my secrets, there are not that many, I need to keep a few. hehe. Lesson? Find a guy and his wife that both like guns and are just getting into carry. Give them a good holster, and suddenly you get to make a holster for every new gun they get, then their son, then their BIL. With him, if he mentions he's picking up a new gun I start looking for the mold. Gotta love it.

I'll try to get some pics. Thought I had some but could not find them. Might be my pattern, might be a holster. Depends on how soon I need to make one that way. Probably need to pre make a couple more that I recently sold anyway. But normally I run between 1/2" and 1" extra. No need for several inches. Think of it like a regular holster, you need the width of the gun extra in the stitch line, you need the width of the gun extra in the front panel. And FWIW, you can adjust the holster after glueing it. I find myself doing that more now. Putting in some extra curves to make it look nicer. As to needing a strap, maybe his way, not my way. I'll assure you. I can make them tight enough I though I would have to send the blue gun or mag with the holster. lol Flat back or 50-50 mold is preference. But I have had zero complaints about them showing more with the back flat. IMO it carries closer to the body that way since there is no stand off from the back mold. And a lot of compliments on it being the most comfortable holster they have ever worn. And tons of repeat customers. I've got a few guys with close to 10 of my holster. But like I said, personal. A dozen makers here doing it different could tell the same story.

I start by figuring out the shape of the back panel, which is close to what I want the final shape to be. This takes into account cant too. Once that is done I cut it out. I use that to establish the top of the front panel, and add the necessary extra to each side and a little on the bottom. Pro tip, edge color and burnish the top of the front panel before starting. Easier flat than molded. Figure out where you want the gun on the back panel, mark it. Lay top panel on it, flip gun and pane over. Mark it. That gives you a starting point. Wet and case leather. Put makers mark on back piece, I use the sweat shield. Then mold the front. Force dry in dryer on shoe rack. Place gun on marks for back panel. Lay front panel on top. Adjust if needed. Hold them together, flip over and mark outside edge for glue lines. Take out gun. Put back together and mark inside lines for glue lines. Glue. Trim excess. Adjust final form as desired. Sand edges. Mark stitch lines. Set belt loops. Stitch.

I make mine like Josh is describing, and all I do are flat back holsters. The closest you will come to a pattern is how Dwight does them. He has a pattern where he stitches one side, the slide side IIRC first. Then molds the holster. Maybe he will be along to expound on that one. I have a pattern for the back and a rough pattern thats larger for the front. Wet both. Stamp my mark on the back piece, mold the front, dry both. Then align, adjust, glue, trim, sand, stitch lines, punch holes, dye, stitch, finish. Now, if by "double panel" you mean lined holster there will be a lot more work involved. Mainly figuring out how to stitch the mouth and toe of the holster and integrate those stitch lines into the later stitch lines.

Awwwww, ain't they cute!!!! lol Those little holsters for the P238 and 938 are kinda fun. Made a bunch of avengers with ostrich panels on them lately for me and some buddies. Good looking work. Love the 2 tone fade.

This is one of those holsters for me where almost everything went right. This was molded BY HAND. Thumbs, cocobolo burnisher, toothbrush handle, and bone folder. Thats it. The leather has 3 different levels on the slide. The grip is the highest, triangle above trigger. The Frame and bottom of the slide are in the middle, and the top of the slide forward of the ejection port is lower. The front started off as one flat piece of leather, wet and cased for 15 minutes in a ziplock bag. Then I placed the blue gun on a pre marked outline and went to work. Keep in mind it took a couple years to get to this. Knowing when to do things, what to do, and how to do it. That said, the cocking serrations on that Sig P238 look a bit too good to be true from a hand boning perspective. Just the way the negative space between serrations and the slide are the exact same level. That could have been pressed from the outside or someone has an amazingly steady hand. Hard to tell which. The other holster serrations are boned by hand because they are pressed into the leather by a tool. Using a top mold is possible. Some of the kydex guys do it. The issue with leather is I would imagine it might be harsh on the leather around the edges of the inside gun mold. You need the mold on the inside to shape the interior space, and the mold over the outside shapes the outer layer. But I'm not sure how the rounded edges would take it as far as the pressure and shearing force of getting sandwiched like that. Kydex can take it fine. Leather might burnish, or scuff in the process. Like others have said, presses and vacuum molds can get some impressive details. But sometimes doing it by hand can too.

Except my R51! Well, it did pay for itself. But the resale market is not looking so good. At least mine shoots fine. It's a big chance I've take about 6 times, but all but one paid for itself. And that one resold for what I paid for it to a buddy of mine.

Yeah, I only order before payment for a handful of regulars. I'll order the blue gun for others, but after payment, and my clock on delivering the holsters starts when I get the blue gun. Been stuck a few times myself but only have one blue gun I might not have paid for with orders.

I use a bone folder to cut the lines in like BHP is showing you. It's personal really. I like it, so I do it. Some don't, so they don't do it. I sell enough so I guess others like it too. But Simply Rugged sells a lot without it. Each their own. To expand on the above, you want to get the main mold into the holster first. Then when the holster starts to dry you can detail bone the holster and the lines will stay. If you try to bone the holster too early, you will notice the lines start to fade away and you have to re do them. When you mess up a line, and you will, use a smooth tool to burnish the mistake out, then re cut the line.

Since we have expanded into money talk, here is my .02. Stay as debt free as possible. I have the luxury of this not being my main income. But it started with a set amount we could afford to loose. It was a pass fail endeavor. It took me most of a year to truly "pay myself back." Mainly because all extra money went into materials, tools, etc. FWIW, I keep a cushion in my business account. I have a set amount I will not go under unless it's VERY important. I try to anticipate regular purchases so that my normal consumable orders do not get me near that amount either. Another perk to staying debt free is the "walk away" factor. I could get a bunch of stuff on credit to make my work easier. But I'm working for someone else then, and if the bottom falls out the debt remains. As it stands, I could throw my hands up, walk away, liquidate what I can, throw away what I can't, and I've made money and don't owe any of it to a debtor. Makes the lean times less stressful too.

That hole is WAY too big. Unless the rivet pulled the outside leather off when it came out. The hole needs to be just big enough for the stem as mentioned above. Preferably taking a bit of force to push it through. IMO, you need to deal with the holster being a bit thicker so that you can attach the rivet and clip to an extra piece sewn to the holster so that no hardware has access to the inside too. The reality is, the amount of thickness is going to be minute. And check out the Bodyguard thread too.

Every single clip holster I've sold a replacement for and the customer mentions why was because their current clip was attached like that and it moved. Sounds fine in theory. But having a gun on a pendulum is not a comforting feeling. And I'm curious about the hardware inside too. I try very hard to not put hardware inside a holster. The exceptions are thumb breaks and field straps but not many ways around those. If nothing is holding that T nut in, and the screw comes loose or just loosens up, the T nut is now riding directly on the frame of the gun.

Been on eBay for 3 years. Here are some tips. Feedback is a big deal. More good feedback equals more sales and faster sales. Pick your price and list it. Be careful playing the bottom dollar game. I did it for a while to coax sales and feedback. Still competitive there but some are cheaper. I refuse to give them away and price what I want for it and do fine. I actually charge slightly more for some things on eBay to cover fees. Next biggest sales place is a local NC gun board. After that a scattering of local business. I don't do a website because I do this on the side. I don't want unrestricted order taking. Not sure I could keep up. Plus a dedicated site is another thing to do which means I'm not doing holsters. Works for me.

I deal mostly with Thoroughbred Leather in KY. They have been showing some lighter weight leathers on Facebook recently. Have had good dealing with American Leather Direct too. Also KY.

A recent time saver for edging my holsters. All edges are Feibing Pro Oil black. Dampen the edge. Color the edge before dying the holster. Once the edge is colored take it over and burnish it with just the oil black. The burnishing is now 90% finished. The oil black works so good damp it's not even funny. I might hit it later with liquid saddle soap and the burnisher. And do a final wax and hand burnish. But those are so much easier if I burnish it right after dying it. Dampening the leather before dying, especially the pro oil black. Final stropping of my knives with cardboard. Crazy sharp. I hand stitch but chuck an awl in my floor drill press for making the holes. Grove, space, poke. Flip piece over and groove the back now that I can see the holes. The tip on saving scrap is spot on. I used to never make sheaths or single clip IWB holsters. Now that I do I use the good leather that was too small for my clip covers. Scrap for welts or washers behind clips. I have a limit, too small and I just toss it. But I will keep a couple small pieces around to spread my contact cement with, long thin scrap sections of leather are great for that.

natural or pre dyed? If natural, make a holster and see if the water damage shows through. Or just finish a small square of that leather. If pre dyed, could you dye it black and still use it? Just thinking out loud because I would not plan on insurance doing something. Hate to say it, but if the neighbors insurance does not cover you might want to look into a small claims case. But I would sit down with your dad first. That could make for some bad blood with the neighbors when they find out how much a side of leather is.

That's all I use to punch holes with, and occasionally set rivets. Used one for 3 years now, face is marked but still going well. If you do break one open it's usually full of very small lead shot. It will go everywhere.

The gun belt I'm wearing right now is one layer of about 14-15 oz leather. Works fantastically. But it sure would not work in dress pants. A buddy of mine makes these and got his hands on some crazy thick sides, around 18-19 oz. Problem was, it was larger than most holster belt slots and bigger than any of the clips for IWB holsters. So there is your top range I guess.

Liquid saddle soap, either purchased or currently making my own. Take a bar of saddle soap, shred it really fine, pour very hot water over it and stir. Couple shakes before starting. Apply to edge with a dauber and burnish away. However, if you edge with pro oil black and go straight to the burnisher the pro oil dye gives quite a nice edge by itself. I've started just burnishing right after dying my edges. It's working out very well.

I order 8-9 oz by the side. For pocket holsters I fish out some of the thinner sections I toss in my misc leather boxes. Assuming it averages out to about 6-7, thinner than I want for OWB. If I did a lot of them, I would start ordering leather just for them. Probably 6-7. Right now, I don't so I go with thin for the side pieces.

First, you will not get vacuum tight without, well, the vacuum. But you don't need it either. Just accept a bit of difference and learn how to bone in the details. I use 8-9 oz leather. I do all my holsters flat back. CR has you headed in the right direction. Search flat back on here and you will get some more info. I posted some a while back. For getting marks out, cut the head off of a smooth round handled tooth brush. Use the smooth rounded handle to burnish out any boo boos. The last thing I do to my front piece before drying is burnish the wings to get out any marks. That tool will let you push the edges in better and get some details. I do all my line details with a bone folder. This is a Sig P229 IIRC. Flat back. All hand formed and boned. Hand stitched. FWIW, it's taken me a couple years to get here but I'm happy with it.