chiefjason

Mike, that was my first thought too. And I won't claim to have done a lot of revolver thumb breaks either. So I'll ask, do you try to trim the leather to fit behind the hammer or just run the strap across? I was just not happy with how it was going to fit, or actually not fit, behind there. It looked like the strap would collapse over time and loosen up there too. Not disagreeing with you, since that's where I wanted it too. It just did not fit well there. I ran the snap back a little to try and pull the strap to the rear. Time will tell. If I'm right, great. If you're right I may be building a replacement later. Thanks for the compliments. As for the stitches, it's hand stitched with Tippmann 346 natural thread.

I use some of my thread as part of the design, especially the contrast stitching. 277 is too thin for what I wanted. 346 works very well and stands out nicely on my holsters. I would like to check out 407, but I've got 2 spools of 346 that work well so I probably won't do that. Before this, I had tried most of what Springfield leather had and some from a buddy. I settled on the waxed lined from Hobby Lobby (Silver Creek Leather) until I bought the spools from Tippmann.

A family friend of mine approached me a while back for a holster. That turned into a belt, which turned into this wild idea of a cross between a battle belt, duty holster, and cowboy rig. He wanted to put a gun, ammo, and knife on the belt but not have them slide around. That's what the leather strips and Chicago crews are for. And he wanted to be able to wear it over his jacket in the winter. Basically, and grab and go kit to check out his barns and stuff at night. There has been a rash of break in's in the area. So here it is in all it's glory. Holster is for an L frame S&W. Avenger with a thumbreak. 8-9 oz leather. Belt is 15 oz Harness leather. I used his buckle and had to trim the belt down to fit. I have to say, this was fun. And he absolutely loves it! I really wish I had gotten pics of it with his stainless Smith in it. But we were both busy this afternoon. I need to talk him into matching sheath, speedloader holder, and flashlight carrier. lol

Andrew, no real problems with streaking. I do 2 coats. On my black it comes out even. I do a brown that is splotchy anyway so that would be hard to tell. But nothing that I have noticed. I generally do a final finish of atom wax over it too.

Dog collars. I use them as posts for IWB holster leather loops too.

That 50/50 beeswax/paraffin is like a wood filler for leather. Really evens up any spots that sanding misses. We go through very similar steps, just in a different order. I took a long 8/32 bolt and wrapped it in denim. Washers on each end to hold it on and a nut for tension. I use it occasionally by chucking it in my drill press. You just have to wrap the fabric in the right direction so you don't tear it off. I've used it to polish kydex edges so it stays on well enough. Need to pull it on for my next leather holster.

I use it for other things. I have made one holster, and tried another. That was enough to let me know it does not take water well to wet form it by hand. With a press, maybe. By hand, not unless you are going for a more generic non detailed look.

Unless you can send someone to the tannery or wholesaler like Louise does you get stuck with some issues to fix. I have used an oil/wax finish over the leather. Just 50/50 neatsfoot oil and beeswax by weight. It darkens the leather slightly. After you melt them together it congeals into a paste somewhere between Vaseline and shoe polish depending on materials and amount of each. I rub that on the leather then heat it with a heat gun to force it to penetrate. This holster was neatsfoot oil and 50/50 mop and glo finish. You can see it's slightly darker, but I think that piece of leather was a bit reddish too.

Very nice. Reminds me, I need to make myself a crossdraw to carry camping.

Tools make a big difference too. You need to be able to reach in there and get to everything. I've got a bone folder that is longer and has a bit of a twist to it. Works great on the flatter parts. I have an old toothbrush handle and a large and medium sculpy modeling stylus that can get to the harder spots to reach. I have been using gum trag until a couple days ago. I picked up some liguid glycerin saddle soap, and have had good results. As good as gum trag. I'll likely order some of the Aussie cream with my next order and try it. The soap works well, but I think the extra wax in the cream may do even better on the inside. Once I've got it burnished I seal it with 50/50 mop and glo/water. Sometimes I'll rub some neutral shoe polish in if I find I missed a spot or the retention is a bit tight.

I tried both yellow and white saddle soap paste. Both worked. But with my dyed black leather they both left a haze, either white or yellow. The liquid, not so much. I burnished a bunch of stuff last night. 3 holsters, a knife sheath, a belt, and a bunch of leather backers for OWB hybrids. There was little to no haze on the black leather backers and none noticeable on the other stuff. However, I do see myself knocking this over and breaking something on the concrete floor. I need to find a drawer to rest it in. I thought about putting it in a container and dipping the dauber in it. But so far I have just been spraying the dauber to wet it, then applying. I've been happy with the results. Kind of interesting all the tweaks and differences in how we go about pretty much the same thing.

Dwight, I finally got the tension where I was happy with it. But somewhere along the line it has gotten burrs on the bottom plate, just inside the hole. I'm assuming a needle got bent or pushed into the side and it tore up the side a bit. It was a non issue with the standard presser foot. But I put a zipper foot on because of the way I make the flat back pancakes. That's when it started cutting at the back side of the leather. Instead of holding the leather on both sides, it started pushing in just enough for the burrs to cut the leather. I ruined my first holster, but did not know why. Then it did it again on a knife sheath and I tracked down that issue. So that's the main machine issue at this point. But on top of that, I'm having a tough time figuring out how to arrange my stitch lines, and start or stop the stitch. Not how to do it with the machine per se, but how to arrange the direction of the stitch. My holsters are fully formed and glued before I stitch them. Not an issue with hand stitching. But a big problem with the machine. Trying to figure out which zipper foot, which direction, or even if it will work at all. And the throat on the cast iron Boss 1 is about a half inch narrower. That does not sound like much, until you start making turns with the holster. And with all the things I have going it's hard to work time in to solve those problems. I like the machine overall. I can file/sand down the burrs no problem. But if I can't get it to work on the holsters I'll either have to re figure my style, or pass on the machine. If I can get it to work I'd start haggling with him on the price and buy it. Short answer, part machine, part holster design, and part time.

I've been using nylon 346 thread from Tippmann. I bought it to try to get an old Boss up and running. Until then, I've been hand stitching with it. I run it through beeswax before I start. I've been very happy with the results.

I mainly do holsters. I tried the pony but did not like it. I just hold the holster and stitch it. I've got a pattern and routine down that works for me. The best thing I did was buy a sewing palm though. Really sped things up for me. I pre punch my holes too.

I've got a red one sitting in my kitchen. It's on loan, and if I can get it working I'll buy it. But there are a few bugs I need to work out before I lay down the cash. Mainly, I need to figure out how to use it on my style of holsters. It's being difficult.

I'm always keeping an eye out for stuff that will make my life easier. Tractor Supply had this a couple weeks ago, but I passed on it. I went back to get a couple Chicago screws and picked some up. It's made by Fiebing's. I used it today to edge some small leather strips and burnish the flesh side, then burnished a knife sheat. It seemed to work just as well as Gum trag, and smells so much better. And does not stain like the bar saddle soaps seemed to do. I've used water, beeswax, paraffin wax, gum trag, and various saddle soaps. So far I really like this stuff. I just spray some on a dauber and rub it in the edges then burnish. Dwight's comment in another thread about gum trag roughing up the flesh side made want to try it today. Here is a link to the product. What say you guys? Worst case scenario, it gets put to use on the leather furniture. But so far, I like it. I really want to see what it does with the interior of a holster. http://www.tractorsu...e-soap-16-fl-oz

I use atom wax to bring back some of the shine to the holster. I use an oil/beeswax finish, and it's just a bit too dull. Atom wax gives it a nice shine, and some depth, without looking like I dipped it in plastic. I would not say it hardens anything though.

I lined one of my personal holsters. It's a nice touch, but a lot of extra work IMO. I always burnish the interior. Sometimes I'll rub a little neutral show polish in to slick it up more if it's kind of snug. Look at it this way. Either you can burnish the leather smoother. Or the guns finish can. I figure the customer would appreciate me doing it.

I ended up buying one, and the PT 111 G2. The G2 has already paid for itself, or close to it. I don't do that often, but I've done it a few times. As good an excuse as any to buy another pistol. hehe Oddly, the 709s did very well for me when I made extras from a customers gun. Now that I have my own it's kinda been a flop. But my wife is now eyeing it as a carry gun so maybe not all was lost. I really should check Duncan's next time.

Dwight, thanks. I'll give that a shot too. The first one went well, but I had some left and the second batch was not quite the same. Still works well though. But a firmer past would be easier to apply and you don't get much extra on the leather. It's not the first time I've been told to quit being a cheapskate and buy the real thing. lol I use a small crock pot to melt them together. I do a very cool brown dye on a lot of holsters. It really deepens that dye nicely and improves the look of it. The other's it's hard to tell a difference other than I really like the end result better.

Oh, now I see the problem. He obviously bought one of the new round 1911's.

It's not lumpy. Mine might have been a touch heavy on the oil this time, it's in the realm of Vaseline for consistency. I'll probably add some paraffin wax next time to give it a bit more body. Seems to still work just fine. Just a bit more messy this go around. FWIW, the beeswax is from a NEW (very important) toilet seat ring. Just don't tell anyone. lol

Sig is in their own little design world. They have a larger slide on the top than your standard 1911. Heck, some purists refuse to call them 1911's. I built one recently from a customers Sig. My Colt blue gun would not fit the holster. And SM is right, the standard commander length is 4.25". So that's an issue too.

Mop & glo works well on most things. I had issues trying to use it over vinegroon though. Since then I've gone away from it. I finish by applying an oil/wax finish. 50% beeswax to 50% neatsfoot oil by weight, and melt it together. If you add just a bit of parafin you get more body to the finished product. I rub that onto the holster then heat it with a heat gun to soak it in. Two light coats. Then a top coat of Atom Wax to shine it up just a bit. Seems to hold up well and I don't have the cracking issue I occasionally had with acrylic finishes.

Back is good. Shoulder is good. Bellies are soft, spongy, fat wrinkled and how do I say this? Bad. At least for holsters. Patterns, maybe. I buy mine by the side now from Thoroughbred leather. I've bought from American Leather Direct too. Got good stuff from both. Had some recent hides with more flaws. From talking to a couple of makers and supplier it seems good hides are getting harder to come buy. I've bought at least one recently at a discount price because of brands and surface issues. But the HO I got wasn't much better anyway and was a good bit more on the price. If you are moving decent numbers, save up the money and start buying full sides or at least full backs (belly cut off). I do this on the side, and I finally decided to cut off all my spending that was not necessary. Then I ordered a couple sides. I'll never go back. I usually order 2-3 at a time now. FWIW, I prefer 8-9 oz on my leather holsters.