Constabulary

I´m also using a 111G156 - its nice machine but 3/8" is quite thick! I´m not sewing 3/8" material but I just tried to get 3/8" canvas straps under the foot of mine. Its to thick for my machine! Take a piece of 3/8 leather with you when you are visiting the seller and try it. I think 5/16 is the thickest the machine man handle. I think you probably need something in the class of Adler 4 / 104 / 204 or Singer 45K or one of their clones.

last post for today ;-) You found the ucansew2.blogspot.be already Look at the Pfaff 145 and Singer 111w155 - this is what you want!

the 138 has no triple feed. Triple feed machines have 3 bars when you look from the left side, one for the needle one for the walking foot and one presser foot. So when it looks like this (see picture) it has a triple feed. Look at this video and watch the Video in this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=49979

BTW the small oval shaped metal part above the leather belt on picture 1 it for coupling the leather drive belt. The belt should have 1 small holes on either end. Through these holes goes the oval thing. If one hole it ripped, take a hammer and a 3mm nail with you and punch new hole into the belt about 5mm from its end. The 138 also sews zig tag and can sew on button with the correct presser foot. I really loved the 138 but it was not strong enough for me.

either machine would cots me about 200€ but not set up for what I`m thinking of. I would like to sew 16mm wide tacks with 2.5mm hight with about 52-56 stitches. I don´t want to spend toooo much money as It more a hobby that a job. How much would it be to put a new cam into the Juki?

80€ is a very good price. This also was my 1st machine but I quickly learned it is not "strong" enough for me. The Pfaff 138 is a very good machine but has its limits, it is not made for sewing heavier materials. Its a Tailor machine for sewing garments and not really made for car upholstery but it is a good machine to start with / to learn with. It may have its problems with thick upholstery threads too. You can sew a few layers of soft garment leather but thats it. And as it is foot operated you will have problems with the torque when sewing thick materials real slow. You should add a Servomotor. Or has it a motor - but I can´t see one. The thick leather lace is the drive belt so it is not missing. In case you will sell it again you should be able to get 250€ for it. I would buy it for 80€ no matter if it works for you or not. I´m sure this will not be your last machine especially when it comes to car upholstery.

Also, would be nice to know if it is possible to change the patterns at a Juki LK-980 :-)

I need some help with a Singer 269W bar tacker. I´m able to get one for a good price but it does not sew the pattern I need. Is there a way to convert it to a different tack patterns? I assume they work with some kind of replaceable pattern plates (or how are they called), right?

seems we are on the same track

Well, I´m not the big expert but I know the Singer 111W, Pfaff 145 and Adler 167, Consew 225 are about the same class and they even look very similar. I think the Adler 267 reduced to what you can do with it, is almost the same as the 167 but has a more modern appearance and a built in bobbin winder. Go through the posts in the sewing machine section here in the forum and I´m sure you will find these brands and classes over and over again.These are surly not the most up to date models abut they are all very reliable and they will last for decades! You should probably reduce it to the basics - for example an Adler 167 (or similar model) for 500€ compared with a 267 (or higher class) for 1500€ and up. What are MY advantages on the 267 and is it worth to spend 1000€ more. They both sew with walking foot, have an adjustable stitch length, maybe the 267 has a slightly higher foot lift (if at all) and it has a built in bobbin winder and looks more modern --- but is that worth 1000€ more? How long do you have to work for 1000€? Your Bank gives you a 1000€ loan w/o problems but you have to pay it back (+ fees on top) with what you are producing with the machine or you have to sell a lot of extra newspapers. You will probably find out that you will need more than just one machine depending on the work you have to do. So you can spend the saved money on a 2nd or even 3rd machine or other tools you may need in your business. I think my Singer is a good example for that, it was cheap, after restoring it looks awesome (from my point of view) and works perfect. Why the hell should I buy a 1500€ machine? Only because it looks modern and has a built in bobbin winder? And on top of that, when you are doing Oldtimer upholstery, wouldn´t it be cool to work on some nice old machines? Think of an upholstery shop with a couple of old but nice looking and perfect working sewing machines. I mean the really old ones... Old cars - old sewing machines... I love the idea. Just my 2 cents.... Others may have different opinions.

Because of the capacitor + Steinmetz circuit, this website is quite helpful but you have to translate it. http://forum.electro...880f29_bs0.html

well, maybe you should look over the fence (thank god there is no fence ;-) ) on Ebay Germany. There are always some quite interesting machines listed. My Singer 111 was just 100€ incl. an old clutch motor and a wooden stand. I had to drive 125Km one way and spent some time in adjusting and replacing the timing belt (ordered it from the USA) and I repainted it and put a new decal on it (just for optical reasons) so it overall cost me about 180€. I also loved restoring it as I learned a lot about the machine. I´m going to replace the motor soon with a Servomotor but thats a different story, the clutch motor is still working well. The Singer of course was a lucky circumstance but it is possible to get a good machine for below 500€ but you probably have to travel a bit. For example, there are always some nice Pfaffs on Ebay Germany. www.ebay.de/itm/151128683177 www.ebay.de/itm/111173932392 I think the two above will not go over 350€ I know you are from Brussels and its quite a way but it could be worth the traveling! Of course, there is always a risk but theses old machines are really work horses and they will last for decades. As I said before my Singer 111 is about 50 years or older and runs smooth. Its about the same class as the Pfaff 145 or Adler 167. And parts for older Pfaffs and Adlers are not a big problem.

I guess the Grandfathers Singer is a class 29 patcher as you mentioned he did shoe repair with it? I don´t know what exactly you are planing to do with your sewing machine but for auto upholstery a walking foot machine would be the 1st choice. I´m not doing upholstery in the classic sense but I´m sewing a lot canvas and some leather. I worked with a Pfaff 138, 238 flat bed and 28 cylinder bed and Adler 104 flat bed (all not walking foot) before I found my old Singer 111. Its about 50 years old and still works smooooooth. So when you are new to this "Hobby" you are probably not willing to spend too much money. I always can happen that find out that it is not your business. You know what I mean? I don´t know how much the above mentioned Adlers are but either type is quite costly I´d assume. My Paff 28, 138 and 238 worked while but the more I worked the more ideas I had and then figured they are no longer suitable for what I`m doing. Then I found the 104 and figured it somehow it tooooo big (but I still have it). The last one was my 111D156 and I love it! It suits very well for me. BTW for non of the above I paid more than 150€ BUT I had to do a lot of cleaning, refurbishing, replacing some parts, adjustments and motor replacements + the gas I consumed for picking them up. But I liked it very much. Sometimes it is good to go through a kind of "Machine-finding-process". Not easy to explain. However, the machines should suit the work you are planing to do with them and the money you spend should be a good relation to your output no matter if it is a hobby or business. Thats just my opinion. Converting a clutch motor from 380V / 400V to 220V is not a big task. I don´t know how the electrical plugs in Belgium looks like but I assume they are almost the same as in Germany. I converted 3 Pfaff + Kobold clutch motors from a 380V /400V to 220V with a starting capacitor and Steinmetz circuit. But again - I don´t know how the electrical system in Belgium is and you should not do this if you are unsure of what you are doing.

I just found the same type (I think) at a dealer in Germany and he even has a number of adapters. Check this: http://www.rimgm.de/shop/PFAFF/PFAFF-145-245-335-545-1245/Kantenlineal-hochschwenkbar.html?listtype=search&searchparam=kantenlineal Adapters are listed on the right side. @ thesergeant How much was your edge guide including shipping from China? If there is a difference of just a few $ (well, I probably have to pay import fees + taxes when ordered in China) I would order one here in Germany.

Could use one these for my 111G as well - where can I find them and how much are they?

If you can deal with an Adler 104-2 (flat bed) I would probably sell mine for 400€ + shipping. Its just the machine + some accessories, no stand and motor (easier to ship).

Duuuuuude The Holy Grale of heavy duty sewing machines. Will this thing fly to the moon? WOW - seems they have listen & learned. But thats far beyond from what I can afford. But an awesome machine with great features. Question is will you ever get the money out of it with what you are producing on this machine?

Finally found it, it is mentioned in the manual at "To Adjust The Reversing Mechanism". Why there? However, though I adjusted it I do not get full 5 SPI out of it when forward + reverse have the same stitch length. I can even adjust it to a longer forward stitch but then the reverse stitches are shorter. Is there something like "secret screw" that only knows the advanced Singer Mechanic?

One more thing... When set to the longest stitch of 5 SPI (should be about 5mm stitch length) the machine produces 6 stitches per inch (about 4mm stitch length). Is there a way to adjust the stitch length to that it makes 5mm stitches (5 SPI) at the chosen position? See picture (2,54 cm = 1 Inch)

reverse lever movement solved - it just needed oil. Everything runs so smoooooooooth now. Can´t wait to sew with it....

For how much do these sell? I see you live in Australia so wouldn't it be cheaper to order a freight forwarder to do the job instead of traveling 15 hrs for a sewing machine?

IT'S ALIVE - IT'S ALIVE!!! HA HA!!! Seems it was the little hint with the two arrows. I just timed the hook a little bit again and - it sews! Yet, it only sews by turning the wheel by hand but it makes nice stitches and feeds well. Now it's time to oil it thoroughly. But for some reason something moves up & down the reverse lever a little bit but that is probably because it needs oil at some spots. Not sure if I´m done but I will report after oiling it. For now THANK YOU SO MUCH Geneva, Wizcrafts, Gottaknow & CowboyBob but I may have some other questions later.

It now feeds well but yet does not catch the lower thread. Seems I have to move the hook towards the needle a little bit. Hook seems to be at the right position but not close enough to the needle.

Now its time for timing. But how to start? As I said I had to replace the timing belt. I just put it on an tried make settings by reading the Manual but my technical English is not very good and the pictures in the manuals are too dark do not help me very much. So I first tried to set the stitch length, that was the 1st thing that did not work. Maybe I misunderstood something. I pushed the left pin on the bed and turned to handwheel towards me. No movement at all, the only thing that happened was that the safety clutch poped out. Okay, I knew there is a video on youtube of how to put it back in. I figured that my clutch has no slotted screw but instead it has a flat bolt. So I tried it on my own. This ended up in removing the clutch from the shaft. And I figured I can just pop the clutch back while putting a lever (screw driver) between the 2 pins and push it back in - worked well. I hope I did not damage anything doing it this way. However the V shaped metal tongue is back in the V shaped notch and there is no play, it fits tight in there! So thats the point where I'am - the belt is still off and the clutch is set again. At this point I think it would be the easiest way to time the machine. So I think when I but the needle bar and the feed dog in a certain positions and then but the belt back on it probably should work. Good Idea or bad Idea? Anyway, I have no clue of what to start with so I really could use some help.

Not sure but isn´t it the same clutch as in the 111w? http://www.ebay.com/itm/290766935542 I came across this offer while searching for parts for my 111G But maybe Eric has one on hand as well.