Constabulary

sounds interesting - I´m looking for something similar for the future....

most of them are sold. I sold some on Ebay and some sold outside Ebay. I just offered the remaining accessories to a local guy and will have a response later this week I think. Currently I just have one edge guide left on Ebay: www.ebay.de/itm/331107797893

On the Enduro website they have mentioned the amount of torque of some of their motors. www.endurosaves.com They have some motors with 1400 Watts To me they all look the same (no matter if Consew or Enduro or other brands) and I guess they all come from the same factory (just a guess) and the servo motor "thing" is a bit confusing for me - somehow. EDIT: I just notice keysew has some of them: http://store.keysew.com/parts/industrial-sewing-machine-motors

Ha - look at that!

I don´t know what excactly this is but it seems to be for punching holes. So maybe this is something for you Hand Sewing Guys. Pretty nice looking vintage tool. http://www.ebay.de/i...r-/261392751153 Just wanted to share this (its not mine)

If you don´t have luck at the mentioned dealers you can find it on Ebay www.ebay.com/itm/290723344373

Here you have pictures of 3 very old clutch motor and they all run perfect on 220V. All have 220/380 on the data plate and they all have a capacitor so they all run on 220V.

The motor it self runs on 380V (at 1700rpm) but can be converted to 220V/240V (at 1400rpm) thats why the different voltage is mentioned on the motor data plate. The control box runs on 220V and it takes it from the motor junction box (where you have to do the conversion). Read my post #5 http://leatherworker...70 This is pretty common in Germany as most people do not have 380V. The capacitors cost about 8 -10€ (maybe more in the UK). This and the drawing of the Steinmetz circuit is all you need. BUT again - if you don´t understand circuit drawing leave the conversion to an electrician.

Awesome! When you are dome with the mechanical issues I would give the machine a new paint job. Probably light gray or silver...

I know a guy who custom makes motor pulleys. I think he can make hand wheels too. I was also thinking about a larger one for my Singer 111. I will contact him and ask if he is able to do that. It may take a while to get a response. But we live on the other side of the pond...

the small on you bolt on the flat bed?

http://eugene.craigslist.org/for/4300209495.html Seems the Pfaff has triple feed and it is cheaper so I would choose the Pfaff

But it all depends on if the tension release mechanism is the same.

I would not solder it. A lot of machines are using the same tension assembly. I know for sure that singer 111 and older Duerkopp´s (today they are Duerkopp-Adler) used the same back then. I changed this part between my Singer 111 Duerkopp 245 and Duerkopp 252 w/o any trouble. And I´m pretty sure the new machines made by Techsew, Consew, Seiko and others are still using the same assembly. And they are fairly cheap! I know the one on your Adler 67 looks different. It uses the "square type" and on my machines I have a "curved type" (these are my terms, not official terms) assembly but as long as it is technically the same... I would give it a try. On Ebay you find the complete "curved" tension assemblies for about $11- $20 Scroll down here (or maybe you just find a new stud there): http://www.ebay.com/...ension assembly The "curved" ones look like this - see picture. This is just an idea and probably not he perfect solution.

Sounds good so far but depends on how old it is and what kind of motor it comes with. Some older 227 do not have reverse feed, just for the case it is important for you.

The Adler 48 is very similar to the Singer 17 and uses the same shuttle hook as far as I know. The Adler 48 is not a heavy duty machine and has no walking foot. If you are looking for something similar to your Seiko but with cylinder bed you should look for Consew 227, Singer 153 (not all have walking foot), techsew 2700, Pfaff 345 or 335, Cowboy CB227... The black Adler 48 is probably from the 1940´s - 1950´s

Wow - thats awesome! I´d be grateful for any information. I´d really appreciate if you could send me a PDF file. The motor it self seems to be NDK 800 M/12 The control box is numbered with 18 025 603 Are these the numbers you need? Would be a shame trashing the motor just because of not having a manual. I think there are a few more people out there who need information about these motors.

That would be awesome! Thanks a lot in advance Eric.

A pal bought an older Juki with an Quick Rotan motor (what a beast) on it. The clutch seems to be electronically controlled. Motor is running but when you push the pedal the clutch does not work, meaning the pulley is not rotating. Any ideas why? Maybe just a simple thing but manuals are not available as it seems. So no idea what to do. The control box tag is numbered with 18 025 03 just fr the case this is important.

Selling some older very hard to find & ORIGINAL attachments + accessories for Adler 4, 5, 104, 105, Singer 45K and their clones on Ebay http://www.ebay.de/s...=p2047675.l2562 I have some more presser foot and so on, will either list them in the days to come or just send me a PN. Some may fit for Adler 204 / 205 walking foot but not all!

probably wrong needle size? Maybe chose one size bigger.

There is a kind of binder attachment for leather tape for the Adler 4 / 5 and 104 / 105. Not sure if they still make them and I´m not sure if they work for 441 type machines. Just wanted to shot this idea.

It´s an Adler 20. It seems to have a very limited stitch length regulator. Pretty bad shape. Interesting is the tag that says US Property so it was probably used by the US military. I personally would probably buy just because of the tag but I live on the other side of the pond. :-(

Even better

Singer Screw 201409: 2nd hit on Google http://sewcat.com/singer-201409-screw.html Maybe you find some more little useful screws (throat plate screws sometimes get lost too) to fill an order