Constabulary

where are you located? Maybe one of the well known dealers is close to you.

look for a used one... Dealers often offer used machines as well or just check Craigslist but when you are new to this buying from a dealer is probably the better option for you.

Check the Video in this thread, I will give you an idea: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=49979&hl=video

Maybe the Video in this thread will help you: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=49979&hl=video

These take to much space on the table. I will use wing bolts or so. Speed is not important. I´m doing this as a hobby so I have all the time

My work stand "spare parts"

Let me try to explain... Since I have limited space for "lots of" different sewing machines my idea is to make my current table a "universal table". I´m already using it with 2 flat bed machines (Singer 111G156 + 306 G2) both machines fit in the same cutout and have same hand wheel position for the V-Belt so they can use the same bobbin winder as well. Since it is a quite long table (about 60" x 24") I´m planing to put 2 different cylinder machines (Pfaff 335 + Adler 105 or Singer 153 + Singer 45K or something similar) to the left edge of the table. Each machines will be bolted on a about 12" x12" wooden plate and these plates will be bolted to the table the way they can use the same motor with just different V-belts. With other words, I will have 2 motors and use 4 machines on just one table - Thats the idea I have collected a nice lot of parts from vintage Adler work stands (or tables) so I will put an additional leg to the left side of my current table and on this leg I will bolt the "monster flange" for the speed reducer with 3 or 4 pulleys (step pulley - or how do you call it) and this step pulley can be set on different positions on the shaft. The step pulley will have ball bearings and will have adjustment rings on the right and left side so I can move it on the shaft. The flange fits exactly to the 4 square holes in the middle of the legs. I hope I explained it well - D' ya understand what I mean? At the moment it is just and Idea... So here is the current situation:

I recently "liberated" some parts of an old ADLER work stand. I looked through my records and figured it is from the 1940´s (manual printed in 1947) One of the legs had a HUGE cast iron flange bolted on.The stand was meant for a treadle driven Adler 4 or 5. The flange weights about 8 pounds and has a 3/4" shaft. This thing is really MASSIVE! I have the same stand (but restored) on my current machine table so the flange will serve me as amount for a speed reducer sooner or later. I just wanted to share this

this is the newer and larger size hook. I don´t have parts for it but since you are in touch with Bob Kovar I´m sure he will help you. The spring is just for pushing out the bobbin, it makes it easier to pull it out. The older hooks don´t have this spring.

The black one is dyed, in 1956 the Army switched from brown to black leather so they have dyed a lot of brown equipment black. J.Q.M.D mean Jeffersonville Quartermaster Depot - but I guess you know that

If the shoulder bolt is a regular M4x5 screw you should find them in hardwares stores - if they have metric screws. This is no special screw if it is a metric thread. Bobbins and the bobbin spring should be easy to find IF you have the early type hook and not the later larger one. As far as I know the 205 used 2 different types of hooks. The earlier (smaller) hook is the same one they used in the Singer 45K.

Is the brown pouch dated? I also collect US Military MP equipment, I have a nice range of compete leather MP sets (not for sale) and a bunch of single items like mag pouches, hand cuff pouches and so on.

Looks like an Military Police First Aid Pouch - is it brown or black?

Thanks for the hint SARK9! I should have known since I posted the video a while ago. Seems they let it dry for a while since the Lady has a body with applied decals to her left. But I wonder if the decals she applies are wet already. I wish they had shown the complete process step by step. Unfortunalety the scenes are interrupted.

will do that for sure sooner or later. I´m not a brand fetishist but I meanwhile really like the vintage Singer machines. I just figured out they are water transfer decals but sliding off the paper was not a good idea. Seems I have to let them dry before I can remove the paper but I don´t know for sure. I just tried one on my vintage sewing machine table. Does someone have instructions for these vintage water transfer decals? They do not have a slide or transfer film or what ever it is called these are just the letters applied to a paper background. So How do I apply them correctly? Soak them in water, apply them, let them dry, and then remove the paper? Or how does it work correctly?

@ SLudow I guess you mean for making reproduction decals, right? There already is a guy who makes Singer decals. I bought some when I was restoring my Singer 111G156 but they look a bit different but maybe he offers different types. I have a VERY (very) old Singer 17 floating around somewhere, maybe I sould bring it back to life, give it a new paint job and try one of the vinatge decals

This nothing technical but I just wanted to share this. I recently have found sheets of original pre 1945 SINGER decals. I assume these are rub on decals. I wonder if they still work? How do I know that they are pre 1945? Well - SINGER made sewing machines in Wittenberge, Germany (East Germany) from 1904 until June1945 when the Russians and disassembled the factory and took it as war reparation. And on the backside of the decals sheets the maker of the decals is mentioned which was AUGUST JUETTNER from Saalfeld. Saalfeld also is a town in former East Germany which was known for their printing factories and JUETTNER also made decals for GDR (German Democratic Republic - or just East Germany) bicycle brands. So there is no relation between Singer and Germany between 1945 and 1958 and due to the political situation between the 2 German countries I´m sure the decals were made before the factory in Wittenberge was disassembled in 1945. And the kind of font they used for the makers stamp on the backside is typical for the 1st half of the 1900´s

for me it is more the binding attachment it self. I´d like to see what other people have in use

sounds interesting - I´m looking for something similar for the future....

most of them are sold. I sold some on Ebay and some sold outside Ebay. I just offered the remaining accessories to a local guy and will have a response later this week I think. Currently I just have one edge guide left on Ebay: www.ebay.de/itm/331107797893

On the Enduro website they have mentioned the amount of torque of some of their motors. www.endurosaves.com They have some motors with 1400 Watts To me they all look the same (no matter if Consew or Enduro or other brands) and I guess they all come from the same factory (just a guess) and the servo motor "thing" is a bit confusing for me - somehow. EDIT: I just notice keysew has some of them: http://store.keysew.com/parts/industrial-sewing-machine-motors

Ha - look at that!

I don´t know what excactly this is but it seems to be for punching holes. So maybe this is something for you Hand Sewing Guys. Pretty nice looking vintage tool. http://www.ebay.de/i...r-/261392751153 Just wanted to share this (its not mine)

If you don´t have luck at the mentioned dealers you can find it on Ebay www.ebay.com/itm/290723344373

Here you have pictures of 3 very old clutch motor and they all run perfect on 220V. All have 220/380 on the data plate and they all have a capacitor so they all run on 220V.