Constabulary

The black one is dyed, in 1956 the Army switched from brown to black leather so they have dyed a lot of brown equipment black. J.Q.M.D mean Jeffersonville Quartermaster Depot - but I guess you know that

If the shoulder bolt is a regular M4x5 screw you should find them in hardwares stores - if they have metric screws. This is no special screw if it is a metric thread. Bobbins and the bobbin spring should be easy to find IF you have the early type hook and not the later larger one. As far as I know the 205 used 2 different types of hooks. The earlier (smaller) hook is the same one they used in the Singer 45K.

Is the brown pouch dated? I also collect US Military MP equipment, I have a nice range of compete leather MP sets (not for sale) and a bunch of single items like mag pouches, hand cuff pouches and so on.

Looks like an Military Police First Aid Pouch - is it brown or black?

Thanks for the hint SARK9! I should have known since I posted the video a while ago. Seems they let it dry for a while since the Lady has a body with applied decals to her left. But I wonder if the decals she applies are wet already. I wish they had shown the complete process step by step. Unfortunalety the scenes are interrupted.

will do that for sure sooner or later. I´m not a brand fetishist but I meanwhile really like the vintage Singer machines. I just figured out they are water transfer decals but sliding off the paper was not a good idea. Seems I have to let them dry before I can remove the paper but I don´t know for sure. I just tried one on my vintage sewing machine table. Does someone have instructions for these vintage water transfer decals? They do not have a slide or transfer film or what ever it is called these are just the letters applied to a paper background. So How do I apply them correctly? Soak them in water, apply them, let them dry, and then remove the paper? Or how does it work correctly?

@ SLudow I guess you mean for making reproduction decals, right? There already is a guy who makes Singer decals. I bought some when I was restoring my Singer 111G156 but they look a bit different but maybe he offers different types. I have a VERY (very) old Singer 17 floating around somewhere, maybe I sould bring it back to life, give it a new paint job and try one of the vinatge decals

This nothing technical but I just wanted to share this. I recently have found sheets of original pre 1945 SINGER decals. I assume these are rub on decals. I wonder if they still work? How do I know that they are pre 1945? Well - SINGER made sewing machines in Wittenberge, Germany (East Germany) from 1904 until June1945 when the Russians and disassembled the factory and took it as war reparation. And on the backside of the decals sheets the maker of the decals is mentioned which was AUGUST JUETTNER from Saalfeld. Saalfeld also is a town in former East Germany which was known for their printing factories and JUETTNER also made decals for GDR (German Democratic Republic - or just East Germany) bicycle brands. So there is no relation between Singer and Germany between 1945 and 1958 and due to the political situation between the 2 German countries I´m sure the decals were made before the factory in Wittenberge was disassembled in 1945. And the kind of font they used for the makers stamp on the backside is typical for the 1st half of the 1900´s

for me it is more the binding attachment it self. I´d like to see what other people have in use

sounds interesting - I´m looking for something similar for the future....

most of them are sold. I sold some on Ebay and some sold outside Ebay. I just offered the remaining accessories to a local guy and will have a response later this week I think. Currently I just have one edge guide left on Ebay: www.ebay.de/itm/331107797893

On the Enduro website they have mentioned the amount of torque of some of their motors. www.endurosaves.com They have some motors with 1400 Watts To me they all look the same (no matter if Consew or Enduro or other brands) and I guess they all come from the same factory (just a guess) and the servo motor "thing" is a bit confusing for me - somehow. EDIT: I just notice keysew has some of them: http://store.keysew.com/parts/industrial-sewing-machine-motors

Ha - look at that!

I don´t know what excactly this is but it seems to be for punching holes. So maybe this is something for you Hand Sewing Guys. Pretty nice looking vintage tool. http://www.ebay.de/i...r-/261392751153 Just wanted to share this (its not mine)

If you don´t have luck at the mentioned dealers you can find it on Ebay www.ebay.com/itm/290723344373

Here you have pictures of 3 very old clutch motor and they all run perfect on 220V. All have 220/380 on the data plate and they all have a capacitor so they all run on 220V.

The motor it self runs on 380V (at 1700rpm) but can be converted to 220V/240V (at 1400rpm) thats why the different voltage is mentioned on the motor data plate. The control box runs on 220V and it takes it from the motor junction box (where you have to do the conversion). Read my post #5 http://leatherworker...70 This is pretty common in Germany as most people do not have 380V. The capacitors cost about 8 -10€ (maybe more in the UK). This and the drawing of the Steinmetz circuit is all you need. BUT again - if you don´t understand circuit drawing leave the conversion to an electrician.

Awesome! When you are dome with the mechanical issues I would give the machine a new paint job. Probably light gray or silver...

I know a guy who custom makes motor pulleys. I think he can make hand wheels too. I was also thinking about a larger one for my Singer 111. I will contact him and ask if he is able to do that. It may take a while to get a response. But we live on the other side of the pond...

the small on you bolt on the flat bed?

http://eugene.craigslist.org/for/4300209495.html Seems the Pfaff has triple feed and it is cheaper so I would choose the Pfaff

But it all depends on if the tension release mechanism is the same.

I would not solder it. A lot of machines are using the same tension assembly. I know for sure that singer 111 and older Duerkopp´s (today they are Duerkopp-Adler) used the same back then. I changed this part between my Singer 111 Duerkopp 245 and Duerkopp 252 w/o any trouble. And I´m pretty sure the new machines made by Techsew, Consew, Seiko and others are still using the same assembly. And they are fairly cheap! I know the one on your Adler 67 looks different. It uses the "square type" and on my machines I have a "curved type" (these are my terms, not official terms) assembly but as long as it is technically the same... I would give it a try. On Ebay you find the complete "curved" tension assemblies for about $11- $20 Scroll down here (or maybe you just find a new stud there): http://www.ebay.com/...ension assembly The "curved" ones look like this - see picture. This is just an idea and probably not he perfect solution.

Sounds good so far but depends on how old it is and what kind of motor it comes with. Some older 227 do not have reverse feed, just for the case it is important for you.

The Adler 48 is very similar to the Singer 17 and uses the same shuttle hook as far as I know. The Adler 48 is not a heavy duty machine and has no walking foot. If you are looking for something similar to your Seiko but with cylinder bed you should look for Consew 227, Singer 153 (not all have walking foot), techsew 2700, Pfaff 345 or 335, Cowboy CB227... The black Adler 48 is probably from the 1940´s - 1950´s