Constabulary

Nice set! Seems you have bought a former German Army sewing machine. I remember from my Army time that these were used for repairing Truck tarps on levels above battalions and in depots. I think (but I´m not sure) that these certain kind of work stands were truck mounted for field repair. But the entire outfit is a general repair set for all kind of heavy leather, canvas or webbing harness and so on. Beside of that they maybe be good for repairing sails, parachute harness, heavy tow straps and other heavy stuff. What parts are you looking for?

- Sold - please delete!

So far the timing looks good. Glad you solved it! I´m not exactly sure what you did on the pulley but I guess your machine has a safety clutch (but don´t know for sure). What you probably did is that you have released the safety clutch and set it back in again. This was probably what you have heard. The safety clutch prevents the hook from damage when you hit a hard spot (for example when the needles hits the needle plate) when you are sewing. I hope your machine works well now. You should read the manual before you "rupture" your machine with tools again - Try to find a manual in Italian language. Also try to find information regarding the safety clutch and how you can set it back. Good luck with your machine!

Okay so here is a small Video I just shot from my Singer 111 so you have an idea of how it looks when the tip of the hook meets the needle scarf. It looks a bit different at your machine but basically it is the same. BTW - do you know all the "vocabulary" such as needle scarf, hook, needle plate and so on? At first I would revise the settings you made at the belt pulley set screw you mentioned above. Make sure the screw sits at the correct spot. I would not use the machine again without knowing the screw sits where it should. - I´m serious! This screw secures the pulley and there is a lot of force on that spot when you run the machine and what happens when it is not properly secured can bee seen in the 2 pictures above (different machine but same result). Then remove the needle plate to have a better view on the parts and turn the hand wheel and see where the hook meets the needles. The tip of the hook should meet the needle scarf approx. 1.6mm above the needle eye when the needle bar is in the upwards movement. I think this can bee seen in the video quite clear. Good luck!

It indeed should scare you! I think there should be a flat spot, notch or indentation for the set screw for securing th pulley properly! I unfortunately cannot see the end of the shaft in the Adler parts list. I have attached a picture of a shaft on which a hand wheel has not been secured properly and this has ruined the shaft. The grove that goes around the shaft (picture 2) is worn off from wrong positioned set screws - there shouldn´t be such grove!!! If a machine is out of time you always (ALWAYS) should check the needle bar position first. If this does not solve the problem you can to go further but I think in more than 90% of the cases this solves the problem.

I´m not sure if this was a good idea. The screw is a set screw and normally sits in a certain position on a flattened point or in a notch of the shaft and it sits there for a reason. If I were you I would revise this and put the screw back to where it was otherwise it could damage your drive shaft sooner or later. I´m sure don´t want to damage anything on an Adler machine - trust me my friend this shaft will probably cost and arm and a leg when it is messed up + someone has to install it and this will cost you serious $$$

I recently stumbled over a video of an Singer 133K sewing machine and I mediately fell in love with it But I can´t find much information. What I like to know is : Which sub class has the walking foot. (I know it has not triple feed as it lacks the needle feed as far as I know). I assume it is the 133K8 + K9 but maybe there are other sub classes with walking foot. How high is the foot lift and how thick can these machines sew? I don´t want to sew leather but heavy webbing.

Maybe a moderator could shift topic this to "Leather Sewing Machines". I´m sure you will get a response there very soon.

I don´t have an Adler 267 but these triple feed machines have basically the same mechanism. I took a shot out of a 267 manual so here is a picture (see below) Remove the needle plate and turn the hand wheel until the tip of the hook meets the middle of the needle. Now you hou have to loosen the two screws at the clamps of the needle bar frame and you have to lower your needle bar just a little bit. Just as much until the tip of the hook meets the needle within the scarf just 1.6mm above the eye of the needles during the upward movement of the needle bar. Now fasten both screws tightly + evenly. Do some test stitches by turning the hand wheel and see if this works. The hooks turns twice and it meets the needle scarf when it finishes the 2nd turn. Maybe you have to "play a little bit" but this is how it works on the majority of triple feed mechanism of this class and I´m sure it will be the same at the Adler 267. Sorry no Video.

it´s probably - as most of the times - the needle / hook timing that is wrong. Do you have a manual where the procedure is mentioned?

Not sure if I got you right but regarding the higher foot lift of the inner foot: There is a wing nut or screw on the front side (right side of the rod when you are sitting in front of the machine) which can be set in different positions. I guess your is in the lower position. Set it to the upper position and that should solve the foot lift problem. But a few pictures in advance would be helpful. I also assume that the machines are not correctly threaded.

Absolutely true! Thanks Scott!

price dropped to 599€ but still open of offers.

You get a lot of information on the Consew website: http://www.consew.com/View/Consew-Model-227R-2 http://www.consew.com/View/Consew-Model-277R-3 the main differences are, central lubing, large vertical hook, foot lift, stitch length, narrow cylinder,...

Some parts are actually new (see picture above) but most parts I have first degreased and then I put them in a solution of oxalic acid which removes most of the rust and leaves a grayish coating on the metal (don´t ask me how this chemically works). And then I have used the good old wire brush to polish the parts as good as possible.Silver grey hammerite did the rest of the job.

Sorry about pulling this old thread again but I actually have found a working link to the DOC file about the restoration of the Singer 29K13 in the Needlebar forum. Just for the case someone is interested in it: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CC0QFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fneedlebar.org%2Fmain%2Frestoration%2FSinger29K13.doc&ei=OTClU6nBKKWL0AXW64HQAQ&usg=AFQjCNEA0DvpI_cgnioBfZRNQbNTqgeKbQ&bvm=bv.69411363,d.d2k So you can safe it on your PC

And finally small Video of how it sews.

When you are sewing really slow you don´t really need the needle positioner because you can see where it will stop when you take the foot off the pedal. But it is a nice feature to have when you sew faster. BTW - I just noticed that the tag on my control box and the information on the shipping box say 563A-1 and not 561A-1. An updated model already?

for deep seated stuff I use paint thinner and until now it did not hurt the paint finish of any of the old machines. Flammable yes but as long as you have no open flames around it will not inflame your machine.

True! So far I really like it, though the included manual is really a pain in TA. holy cow - you are sewing 3cm webbing?

Thanks CD, I´m quite pleased with the result. It sews well so far but the rollers which run in the driving cam and feed motion cam are a bit rough as it seems and I think I have to replace them. From just turning them they were good but now that I have reassembled everything they seems to run rough somehow. Well, thats something for the next order. But for them moment I think it works fine.

I just finished the installation including the speed reducer. The lowest maximum speed setting is 500rpm but the motor starts at 200rpm regarding the digital display which is absolutely the slowest you can get with the pedal. No matter what the max. speed setting is - even at 3000rpm - you always can crawl at 200rpm and the speed reducer slows this down again. (Motor max. speed is 3000 rpm and not 3500 as I said at above post) Cool thing is that you can turn off the speed reducer permanently. On the backside of the control box it even has a socket for a 5V LED sewing light which is optional available. And I like that the control box is apart from the motor and speed regulator so you don't have to crawl under the table when you want to change settings. And it case something is damaged you don´t have to turn in the entire motor (just for the case). So I´m overall very very please with my purchase but I think I will order a smaller 50mm or 40mm pulley just to have the option to go even slower.

DONE! I ordered all parts from College Sewing, UK. Allparts are great - I have no complaints. Only part that "looked" cheap was the bobbing winder but I took the arm of the original Singer bobbin winder and installed the parts from the new bobbin winder - fits perfect and runs perfect. So I´m good with it. The needle bar glides smoooooooth in the head and for just 25.00 GBP it is quite cheap and it is complete with all parts. Shuttle carrier is nice too. It has a nice finish. Some pictures:

After I had so much trouble with 2 different Servo Motors I was still using my old clutch motor - until today! Now that I needed spare parts for the restoration of my Singer 29K71 I thought I should give the JACK brand Servo Motors from College Sewing in the UK a try. I just got my order today. Ordered on June 11. - delivered June 16. by UPS. I have ordered Jack JK-561A-1 Servo Motor, 220V singe Phase, 750 Watts with needles positioning system. At the first glance the outer finish is very nice, it is well made and does not look cheap (not at all). Installation is very easy and it can be adjusted sideways over a good range so it is quite easy to add a speed reducer later (if desired). Unfortunately College Sewing has not much information on their website. So I did not know what size the pulley has. And they mentioned nothing regarding the highest and lowest speed settings. Anyway - it came with a 3" pulley. Top speed is 3500 rpm - lowest speed is 500rpm (regarding the manual) but this it the top speed at the lowest setting. So even w/o a speed reducer and with a 3" pulley it sews quite slow at the lowest setting and with my Singer 111 I can sew 3 layers of stiff military parachute harness without problem. And yet I don´t even need the speed reducer I recently have made. But I will install it no matter what. Needles positioning system works perfect (I set it to needle down) and them I push the pedal in the other direction the positioning system pulls the needle up - pretty cool feature! So from what I can tell at the moment it is an absolutely outstanding motor. For my purposes it works very well and with 750 Watts it has a lot of power - even without the speed reducer. I will test it a bit and will give more information in the days to come.

I´m looking for old brand snap buttons in Line 20 + Line 24 with ring spring. Doesn´t matter if they have some light oxidation. The brand just matters! I could use old brands like United Carr, Rau, Scovill Stupid huh?