Constabulary

As far as I remember on an AC motor you have to switch the 2 wires of the starting coil. Don´t know how your motor is wired and if it has a capacitor nor not but when I work on our German Pfaff, WEG, or Kobold brand clutch motors (all set up with capacitors for 220V singe phase) you just have to switch one cable in the junction box. But don´t ask me how this works on your certain motor, I´m not an electrician.

will try to walk on water next time.

There also is a small curved metal piece where the thread take up spring rests on - it is missing at your machine.

so no need for having this pinned any longer - or?

I think everything you need is on my Pfaff machine. Pictures will be sent by PN

THIS IS REALLY AWESOME !!!!

oooh men - you really have fully stripped it. Good luck with adjusting it when you have assembled it again. I will send pictures of my "spare parts machine" tomorrow.

I have a Pfaff 142 which I would sell for parts or I can strip the parts from if if you want, this saves shipping costs. I can send some pictures if you are interested. It´s possibly much cheaper than buying new parts but it is up to you.

holy cow - thats really bad + sad! Where do you live that it took so long for delivery? I have a Pfaff 141 or 142 (head only) which may have a couple of parts you may need but I´m not sure how the condition is - if it is "too good" I will keep it. I will look for the machine later today - maybe you are interested in it for taking spare parts from it....

Thats true. People have to understand how a clutch works in general (basically the same way as in your car). The 2" pulley thing for clutch motor has been discussed quite often and I think most people understand that there is no magical cure at all and I think no one said that there will be a change in the ramp up as there is no "throttle" or so. The clutch motor always runs at one speed so there is not much you can do. You either have full clutch contact or you can "try" to slip the clutch discs but that depends on the motor and condition of the discs. And thats how you control the speed of your machine - often enough a difficult task. Installing a smaller motor pulley is basically just the cheapest way to get a little bit more control of the speed of you machine. Sewing speed and motor speed are 2 different things, it depends on the size of the motor pulley and pulley at the hand wheel or the relation between the two. As there are not many options for changing the hand wheel so the only way is to install a smaller motor pulley. There are a few more hints to get a better control of a clutch motor. If the V- belt is too tight you have to loosen it a bit and this MAY give you a bit more control of the clutch. You can also open it and clean it and put some grease at dry or clogged up spots (if you able to). There are so many different clutch motors and so many different servo motors - there simply can´t be the one and only solution.

@ Trox, I indeed was thinking about "trying" to put the sync. on the speed reducer when I figured something is not working as expected but I don´t want to make a lot of fuss just for having the needle up or down. Maybe it will work with the new sync. - if not I don´t care. As I said, you really don´t need a sync. at low speed as you can watch the needle traveling and the motor stops immediately when I take the foot off the pedal. So what. But always nice to get some technical input from you

Thats right, it just slows down the machine and increases the torque. The motor still turns at the same speed. A smaller pulley has no effect on the motor configurations.

@ Jack - sorry for "occupying" your thread Trox, seems the Jack actually has a problem with the NPS at very slow speed. High speed worked. But with the speed reducer installed it seems that the synchronizer has some problems. I reported it to College Sewing and a new (improved?) synchronizer is on the way already. But I figured I don´t really need a NPS at slow speed because you really can see where your needles will stop so from my point of view the NPS makes sense for high speed sewing but for slow sewing it doesn´t make a difference if I have one or not. But I still would recommend this motor and I will buy one again but w/o the NPS as I don´t really need it. I will update my review of the motor when the new synchronizer has arrived. I think it always depends on your personal "sewing situation" whether a motor suits for one or not. I have tried a few and this is the first I`m really please with but have to admit it is the first I´m using with a speed reducer and it makes a big difference. BTW - this was my 2nd Servo www.ebay.de/itm/251326331365 and the NPS did not position the needle properly, it always made 1 or 2 stitches too much. And it had this annoying "beeeeeeeep" sound + it made an different sound when it was positioning the needle. Seller said this will end after 30Hrs but it didn´t. Next problem was you can´t turn off the NPS. And buying the same motor w/o NPS was not an option because of the stupid sound. So this and not having the money for an EFKA lead me to the Jack motor which even has much more power and I like it!

Morning Trox - seems you are an early bird too @ Joe I´d personally go with a new servo too. You can buy a smaller pulley and new clutch discs but you may find out that the motor is still too fast and you already have one of the "slower" types with 1725rpm. I have used several different clutch motors and the worst to control was a Singer from the 1980´s. It is still floating around here - that was a beast with 2800rpm and an almost uncontrollable clutch. The best clutch motor I had was a Pfaff (made by WEG Germany) but nothing beats my current servo. I have had 2 servos before I got my current one (which I really like). One arrived broke (well that can happen) and the other one had a poor needle positioning system and made an annoying "beeeeeeeeep" sound. The one I´m using is a JACK JK-563A1 with NPS but I figured I do not need a needles positioning system as I´m sewing rather slow so I can see where and when the needle will stop. But I don´t think the JACK motors are not available in the US. I think the FESM-550 seems to be a good one - Wizcraft often recommends it in some of his post. I remember there was one with a gear reduction (suffix GR) and I think It came from Toledo Sewing Machine Co. But I don´t know if it is still available. I´d contact them for further details.

the hook has to meet the needle above the needle eye when the needle is on the way up again. Look how it works on your 31-15 when you turn the hand wheel slowly. It´s probably the needle bar you have to adjust a bit.

I´m sure there are a couple of Enduro owners. Search for Enduro here in the forum and you will find a couple of posts. Some motors were modified by the owner and I know there are youtube videos about this modification. But as far as I know there already is a 2nd generation of Enduros but I´m not sure if they have solved the issued with the speed control. I wanted to buy this Enduro as well but decided to buy a different motor in the UK as I´m from Germany. It was just a question of $$ (ordering in the US means higher shipping + custom fees). EDIT: Check with Universal Sewing Co. Before I decided to buy in the UK I emailed them a few times and alway got a fast response. They also offer spare parts for the Enduro. https://www.universalsewing.com/tek9.asp?pg=search&mode=results&searchby=Products&srch=&usssearchby=type&usscriteria=448.1

for the needle vocabulary

Make sure that needle is all the way up in the needle bar and the needle scarf is showing to the right side? Have you threaded the needle from left to right? There is a small tab on the hook which should sit in the small gap of the needle plate make sure it is in the right position If this is safe and there is no dirt, sewing dust or old thread in the hook era you should check the hook / needle timing. The tip of the hook should meet the needle scarf approx. 1.6mm above the needle eye when the needle bar is in the upwards movement. I think this can bee seen in the video quite clear. This shows the hook of my Singer but yours should be very similar. You can also thee the small tab on the left side of the hook.

The Math: Machine $1050 Inspection $100 shipping $60 (sounds cheap) Domestic Shipping $280 + unknown import taxes + vat + motor $125 - $150 + Speed reducer $125 -$150 (which you may need) That is (assumed) $1740 including questionable support and warranty from China and you don´t know if you will really get a fully set up and full functional machine. They can tell you what ever they want - they sit on the other end of the world so do you really think they care about 1 single machine? I don´t think they take it back for free if it does not work. A fully setup machine from Toledo is $2300 so you safe about $560 and you have to wait 26 days + unpacking the container + sorting the merchandise + custom check + waiting for the freight forwarder + a few days until you have it at your door just in case you don´t have to pay taxes + vat. What if you have to pay taxes + vat and have to deal with the customs and what if the machine is broke or not setup? How far is China away from you? You said you know nothing about sewing machines, right? So do you really think it is a good idea to buy your 1st machine on the other end of the world? Go ahead and buy it - maybe we all can learn something. I would not buy it! You should probably think about buying a used machine or a CB3200 which is just $1600 http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3200.html I´m outta here now - good luck!

okay - one more thing I "could" image is that the thread take up lever pulls the thread at the wrong moment.You know what I mean? When it pulls the thread up at the moment the loop should be formed there will be no loop or a too small loop. But thats just an Idea, not sure if it possible...

Looks like your needle bar is set to low. Is the needle all the way up in the needle bar? Not sure If one has mentioned it already but the loop will be formed in the upwards movement of the needle bar. At the point where the needle bar goes up again there will be a loop that the hook has to catch. The needle bar has to make this small upwards movement. This is the critical point, if the loop will not be formed properly the machine skips stitches. This point is where the hook should catch the loop / meet the needle scarf at approx. 2.5mm above the needle eye - remember the upwards movement of the needle bar is important!!!

Look at that - it´s indeed an Adler 67 The motor will probably work for your projects. But a new servo motor is easier to control but I´d first try this one, maybe it works for you after you have tested it for a while. If the Singer is too fast you can replace the motor pulley with a smaller 2" pulley if you have a larger pulley installed. This will slow down the sewing speed and it will give you a bit more torque. But you may need a longer V- belt. I´d look for a manual first. This will answer a lot of questions regarding threading the machine, oiling it and so forth. Maybe one of the member here has one or check google.

I´m sorry but no - I don´t have a 441 but a different walking foot machine. The 441 is not the only machine with a waling foot there are dozens of different machines out there. Follow this this part forum for a few month or so and you will learn a lot and you will learn that a video of ONE certain machine is not the holy grale that solves all problems on all machines even if they all have a walking foot. Maybe a used machine is an option for you.

hard to explain if you know "not very much" about sewing machines. Timing is not only finding the point where the hook meets the needle. There at at least 3 different type of hooks (CB hook, rotary hook, barrel shuttle hook) one should know of. And there are several different feed mechanisms, top feed only, drop feed, needle feed, compound feed (triple feed / walking foot), combined top + bottom feed, puller feed and maybe a few more combinations. Timing of a walking foot (compound feed) machine is probably the most difficult (as on the 441) as you have 2 foot (one goes only up + down and the other goes up + down AND back + forth) , one needle bar (goes up + down AND back + forth) , one feed dog (has to be exactly timed with the needle bar) and a barrel shuttle hook which you have to time with the needle bar and all these have work properly together. So the two videos you have posted are not even close as the shown machine has just a needle that hoes up and down, no feed mechanism (you feed it manually since you have to move your material by hand) and not the 2 foot... and so forth. No offense - but sewing machines are NOT one like the other, there are many many differences and I probably have just scratched the surface.

Totally different machine with totally different hook. The one in the video seems to be a darning machine and is not even close to a 441 type machine. It has not feed dog mechanism.