Constabulary

the hook has to meet the needle above the needle eye when the needle is on the way up again. Look how it works on your 31-15 when you turn the hand wheel slowly. It´s probably the needle bar you have to adjust a bit.

I´m sure there are a couple of Enduro owners. Search for Enduro here in the forum and you will find a couple of posts. Some motors were modified by the owner and I know there are youtube videos about this modification. But as far as I know there already is a 2nd generation of Enduros but I´m not sure if they have solved the issued with the speed control. I wanted to buy this Enduro as well but decided to buy a different motor in the UK as I´m from Germany. It was just a question of $$ (ordering in the US means higher shipping + custom fees). EDIT: Check with Universal Sewing Co. Before I decided to buy in the UK I emailed them a few times and alway got a fast response. They also offer spare parts for the Enduro. https://www.universalsewing.com/tek9.asp?pg=search&mode=results&searchby=Products&srch=&usssearchby=type&usscriteria=448.1

for the needle vocabulary

Make sure that needle is all the way up in the needle bar and the needle scarf is showing to the right side? Have you threaded the needle from left to right? There is a small tab on the hook which should sit in the small gap of the needle plate make sure it is in the right position If this is safe and there is no dirt, sewing dust or old thread in the hook era you should check the hook / needle timing. The tip of the hook should meet the needle scarf approx. 1.6mm above the needle eye when the needle bar is in the upwards movement. I think this can bee seen in the video quite clear. This shows the hook of my Singer but yours should be very similar. You can also thee the small tab on the left side of the hook.

The Math: Machine $1050 Inspection $100 shipping $60 (sounds cheap) Domestic Shipping $280 + unknown import taxes + vat + motor $125 - $150 + Speed reducer $125 -$150 (which you may need) That is (assumed) $1740 including questionable support and warranty from China and you don´t know if you will really get a fully set up and full functional machine. They can tell you what ever they want - they sit on the other end of the world so do you really think they care about 1 single machine? I don´t think they take it back for free if it does not work. A fully setup machine from Toledo is $2300 so you safe about $560 and you have to wait 26 days + unpacking the container + sorting the merchandise + custom check + waiting for the freight forwarder + a few days until you have it at your door just in case you don´t have to pay taxes + vat. What if you have to pay taxes + vat and have to deal with the customs and what if the machine is broke or not setup? How far is China away from you? You said you know nothing about sewing machines, right? So do you really think it is a good idea to buy your 1st machine on the other end of the world? Go ahead and buy it - maybe we all can learn something. I would not buy it! You should probably think about buying a used machine or a CB3200 which is just $1600 http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3200.html I´m outta here now - good luck!

okay - one more thing I "could" image is that the thread take up lever pulls the thread at the wrong moment.You know what I mean? When it pulls the thread up at the moment the loop should be formed there will be no loop or a too small loop. But thats just an Idea, not sure if it possible...

Looks like your needle bar is set to low. Is the needle all the way up in the needle bar? Not sure If one has mentioned it already but the loop will be formed in the upwards movement of the needle bar. At the point where the needle bar goes up again there will be a loop that the hook has to catch. The needle bar has to make this small upwards movement. This is the critical point, if the loop will not be formed properly the machine skips stitches. This point is where the hook should catch the loop / meet the needle scarf at approx. 2.5mm above the needle eye - remember the upwards movement of the needle bar is important!!!

Look at that - it´s indeed an Adler 67 The motor will probably work for your projects. But a new servo motor is easier to control but I´d first try this one, maybe it works for you after you have tested it for a while. If the Singer is too fast you can replace the motor pulley with a smaller 2" pulley if you have a larger pulley installed. This will slow down the sewing speed and it will give you a bit more torque. But you may need a longer V- belt. I´d look for a manual first. This will answer a lot of questions regarding threading the machine, oiling it and so forth. Maybe one of the member here has one or check google.

I´m sorry but no - I don´t have a 441 but a different walking foot machine. The 441 is not the only machine with a waling foot there are dozens of different machines out there. Follow this this part forum for a few month or so and you will learn a lot and you will learn that a video of ONE certain machine is not the holy grale that solves all problems on all machines even if they all have a walking foot. Maybe a used machine is an option for you.

hard to explain if you know "not very much" about sewing machines. Timing is not only finding the point where the hook meets the needle. There at at least 3 different type of hooks (CB hook, rotary hook, barrel shuttle hook) one should know of. And there are several different feed mechanisms, top feed only, drop feed, needle feed, compound feed (triple feed / walking foot), combined top + bottom feed, puller feed and maybe a few more combinations. Timing of a walking foot (compound feed) machine is probably the most difficult (as on the 441) as you have 2 foot (one goes only up + down and the other goes up + down AND back + forth) , one needle bar (goes up + down AND back + forth) , one feed dog (has to be exactly timed with the needle bar) and a barrel shuttle hook which you have to time with the needle bar and all these have work properly together. So the two videos you have posted are not even close as the shown machine has just a needle that hoes up and down, no feed mechanism (you feed it manually since you have to move your material by hand) and not the 2 foot... and so forth. No offense - but sewing machines are NOT one like the other, there are many many differences and I probably have just scratched the surface.

Totally different machine with totally different hook. The one in the video seems to be a darning machine and is not even close to a 441 type machine. It has not feed dog mechanism.

Great deal! Worth every cent! regarding the foots, I´d ask one of the dealers who have banners at the top of this side. Maybe one of them is in your era. Or check ebay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=adler+67&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_mdo=Collectibles&_armrs=1&_pcats=1&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xadler+67+zipper&_nkw=adler+67+zipper&_sacat=0 These are so called zipper feet because the outer feet just have one toe on either side. But the dealers may have some more variants. Left toe foot is the one I use most of the time.

BUY IT - BUY IT - BUY IT - if it is in functional condition. $125 is a bargain I´d say! This is pretty much a clone of an Adler 67 walking foot / compound feed sewing machine (maybe it is even made by Adler and then re-labeled by Chandler) Looks as if it has a piping foot but they are easy to change - maybe you have to update to a servo motor but I really would buy this machine if it is still available.

The foot of the Singer 111W will fit. It´s the same type of machine but with a flat bed. They are available with left or right toe. I see you are in the UK so try College Sewing. The outer foot are just 5 to 6 GBP or so.

@amuckart the Video with the old Puritan machines is awesome! I like it very much to see that these old machines are still doing an great job.

basically when you see a machines that you can flip down into small wooden cabinets you can be quite sure they are domestic machines and not meant for heavier work. If you are looking for something vintage check the ISMACS list they often mention if machines are either domestic or industrial.

@ Wiz I really like to read your posts and I´m impressed of your knowledge and experience and Its nice that you take the time to share it with other people! Not matter if one has the machines you are talking about or not - always worth reading your posts!!! Hats off!!!

2 layers of soft garment leather will work but this machine is not meant for heavier work. The machine has most like plastic gears and therefore it has its limits so if you don't want to damage it better look for an industrial machine if you want to work with heavier leather.

Nice price and worth to think about it BUT - on top of the above mentioned expect to pay shipping + import tax + vat + traveling to the next harbor if they ship it by vessel and not by air.

Thats a domestic garment sewing machine and not meant for heavier materials. Don´t expect too much from this machine! Better look for a 111W sewing machine. The missing cord could be the cord of the sewing light as well. The ISMACS list should give you an idea if you are looking for a vintage Singer machine: http://www.ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-100-199.html

BTW - if you want the table in a fixed position like a shelf why not using heavy duty shelf brackets so you can put one directly under the machine for supporting it.

Technically you can place the motor where you want and 180° is fine. A lot of machines having it this way, especially treadle powered machines. But check if the connection between motor lever and pedal (pitman rod or chain) will work in this position. You know what I mean? s it a full plate or has it a cut out? 30mm MDF is fine I´d say. I have seen much heavier machines on 25mm tables. No need for a steel plate. Instead of a steel plate I´d choose a thicker wooden plate (40mm - 45mm) but I think 30mm is fine.

NO WAY - Duuuude - that will cost you a lot of $$$ **Just kidding** sure - when you like it go ahead.

@ AndreNL here you can see how versatile it is. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53689&p=355668

@ VanRhodes No problem at all, I did not know about the exact function of the front foot, I just noticed the "emptiness" and thought it is some sort or walking foot. I´m also learning @AndreNL Because of the speed reducer - 1st of all they are almost not available in Germany (or even Europe) without calling dozens of companies - if at all. I do not know a single company in Germany who sells them regularly through their website and I´m not the one who is making dozens of phone calls to get the things I need. Ordering in the US cots a lot of shipping + custom fees + import vat. So that was not an option for me. The reduction is the same that others have too 2" - 3" - 4" But I don't need the 3" pulley. It was just to try out how this thing works - I had no Idea. My speed reducer cots me 40€ for the step pulley (milled out of full aluminum incl. 2 sealed bearings - so this is TOP quality) + 10€ for shaft and some screws + bolts. The Mount is an old sewing motor mount so it didn't cost me a buck. That is at least 1/3 of the price I would pay when I order it in the US. Furthermore my variant is more versatile. I can shift the pulley sideways and can switch where I need the small or large pulley (left or right side). Not that I need these features but I had this idea and I think it turned out very well.