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Dirtclod - when you get rich then please buy a ticket for me too. I really would love to see all these nice machines. Steeve - nice lot again - I like the cast iron SINGER stand. This is something I´m looking for so my Singer don´t have to work on Adler stands any longer

Hey Steve - nice lot of machines again - where the hell do you get them all from? Isn´t it very expensive to ship them to down under? 9x Pearson No. 6? Holy cow - seems in Australia will be the worldwide Pearson Depot sooner or later The 133K8 only sews 8mm - are you sure that it is not more? My 133K3 sews at least 12mm (yet hand cranked) and maybe 13-14mm with an Adler foot as I noticed the Adler are about 1 - 1.5mm shorter than the Singer foot (at least the ones I have).

Can you lower the feed dog / feeding wheel if it rubs on the cover plate? if it is an older machine probably some old oil is gummed up.

I wonder why you import things like Indian made clones of domestic Singer 15k or Pfaff 130? Are there so few sewing machines in Down Under?

Otherwise I´d look for one of the more "modern" Singer patcher like 29K71, 29K72, 29K73, these were the last models Singer made as far as I know. But maybe there are some younger Jap. made Singer patcher they have a U instead of a K as suffix.

no pictures here. Maybe a cylinder arm or post bed sewing machine with needle feed roller foot is an option for you.

What sewing machine shop will sell a customer a broken part? If you have bought the correct parts you don´t have to use a file but maybe you have bought wrong parts so thats most likely your problem! Do you have a manual and parts list for your machine? If not get them - they will help you to find the correct parts. Furthermore - remove the entire hook and check if some old thread has clogged up the hook. Not sure if you know but the Pfaff bobbin case needs a cover and that cover has the spring for the lower thread tension. Machine will not work properly w/o it. In what condition is your machine? Maybe it needs a thorough cleaning and oiling? Maybe some sewing dust / oil clumps have to be removed from the mechanics. . BTW - if you have filed on your hook parts you will have some rough surfaces (they have a smooth surface for a reason) and since the parts are moving with high speed the parts will probably wear out much faster and the rough parts will collect more sewing dust than smooth parts. So you probably have to replace the entire hook sooner or later and that will cost some $$$. The file idea was a bad one in general.

Decals have arrived, they are very nice but the font is a bit too bold I´d say but still better than leaving the machine blank. Decals on the lamps were extras. Not important but a nice tiny detail. I also made a new thread guide pin for the middle section. Some pics:

He says he has a HoHsing servo motor. But this motor has not an accelerator pedal as far as I know. it works as most of the motors with a rod. I´d assume it is the most common HoHsing which is the MJ series Motor. http://www.hohsing.com/index.php/en/ac-servo-motor-en/113-mj-en I´m not exactly sure what you planed how to setup the two machines but to me it sounds like you have a left standing cylinder machine and probably a flat bed machine and you want to run both with one motor, tight? Then a solution could be a shaft running below your table at the full length, either end of the shaft is mounted to bearing block and on the shaft you have 3 pulley, one for the motor V-belt and one for either machine V-belt. Problem is the pulleys spin permanently and so the machines do. Except you machines with a hand wheel friction clutch (right term?) like some Singers have but the then the the hand wheel spins all the time. So maybe you can just slip off the V-belt of the machine you don´t use. You know what I mean? If my impression is not correct maybe you can describe your machine / table situation a little bit or post some pictures. Due to my space problems I also run 2 machines with one motor but both are Singer flat beds with the same size bed so I can just switch the machines. Only thing I need are 2 V-belts and the one I´m not using is handing down from my speed reducer - works quite well. And I´m planing the same thing for 2 cylinder / arm sewing machines on the other end of the table.

Just a quick shot - I just have checked Ebay UK and found some good starter machines: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seiko-STW-8B-Walking-Foot-Needle-Feed-Heavy-Duty-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-/171446856442?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item27eb076afa http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pfaff-145-Walking-Foot-Unison-Feed-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-Heavy-LEATHER-/271584297611?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item3f3baf828b http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Singer-211-Walking-Foot-Unison-Feed-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-Heavy-Duty-Leather/271592535454?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D25291%26meid%3Df7dce9c1728e40209971e78a5921a427%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D10621%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D271584297611&rt=nc They should sew about 3/8 thick and have a walking foot (unison feed / triple feed) - this is what you should look for. If I had to choose I´d take the Seiko

If you find a 111 with a w156 or G156 subclass it has a reverse lever so it could be an option for you One more note: The Singer 211 is the successor oft he 111 and all 211 are for sure younger that any of the 111 but they have a much smaller hand wheels so I personally prefer the 111 (I have worked with both). You also find the 211 with and w/o reverse.

BTW - I have a JACK Servo Motor with 750 watts and a separate accelerator unit so if you like the tinkering you can mount the accelerator unit to the foot pedal but If it makes sense is another question. And as SARK9 said you need a longer wire.

I think your Adler is the better built machine but I recently had experience with an Adler 167 (same as yours but larger bobbin as far as I know) and from my point of view the Singer 111w is more service friendly than the Adler and accessories like presser foot and spare parts are much cheaper and easier to find. The 111w has timing / adjustment marks which makes the adjustment easier but I haven't seen any on the Adler 167. Others may have different opinions but If I had too choose between an Adler 67 and a Singer 111w (in case the Singer has reverse) I´d buy a Singer again.

The 111w101 has no reverse and this certain machine is much much older than your 67, The motor is quite old too and seems to have a separated clutch. As far as I know they both use the smaller type bobbins but the 111 has a drop in hook and the bobbins are not covered with an extra lid - if you know what I mean. The 111w has a stitch length adjuster in the hand wheel which means you have to push a button in the flat bed and then turn the hand wheel to change the stitch length. Some find this system odd but I like it! The stitch length of the 111w is mostly max.5 SPI

I think you don´t have many options then. The only one I have ever heard of it the one that Sailrite offers but I think this is sometime they have puzzled together and it costs a lot of money. http://www.sailrite.com/MC-SCR-Power-System-110-Volt But I don´t see a big advantage of this system as the up to date servo motors have up to 750 or even 1000 watts and should strong enough out of the box and if they do not have enough torque add a smaller pulley and / or speed reducer. That still cheaper than the Sailrite system. But if you don´t like rods and chains then you have to buy the sailrite motor. But maybe someone knows other systems

I see - Thanks a lot for the hint. I thought it was a special purpose machine because of the X-long needle bar. I also have never seen a 45K with reverse. Probably because they are not very common on this side of the pond, You find more Adler 4 than Singer 45K.

Ask for the distance between the two needles if you need a 2 needle machine with a certain distance. You only can adjust the distance with an other complete gauge set and that may cost 1/2 of the machine - if you can find one at all. I also have an old Singer to ID - hope you don´t mind that I hijack your thread "Hi Im Joe" Looks like a 45K but what subclass is it? It has an extremely long needle bar and a strange stitch length adjuster for a 45K I´d say... Sorry this is the only picture.

okay now here are some pictures. I have not taken pictures of every step - sorry! At first I used a sharp chisel for wood and tapped around the bearing, followed by a big flat head screwdriver, then I have used a more solid chisel and used it s a lever and finally I used a gear puller when the gap between housing an bearing was wide enough. Voila - the bearing is pulled! I squeezed the timing belt through the gap between the upper shaft and housing - this was very very tight and I´m glad I have not damaged the belt! The Adler 167 has a much smaller bearing than the Singer 111 type machines. I used a splint driver to squeeze it through. Then I have cleaned the bearing with fine sandpaper, degreased it and applied some Loctite 601and pushed the bearing back in. For sure not the most elegant way but still better than pulling the entire shaft. I think the "Adler way" is pulling the shaft but removing the pulley is much faster. It took me about 25 minutes to get it out and to replace the belt. Now I have to go ahead and try to time everything (it already was out of time before I replaced the belt) and see what else is going on with this machine. I will for sure have a lot more questions later...

Yes, it indeed is possible! I just removed the bearing carefully and have successfully replaced the belt. But I have to admit is is very very tight and you have to be very very careful not to damage the belt! I will add some pictures and how it works later. I think this was the easiest part and now I have to take care of all the other issues

The paint is ordinary glos black spray paint and even one of the cheapest I have found. But the paint is made by a well know paint company (Kwasny.com) but this paint is more or less a private label brand so it is good quality for a low price . I paid 8€ + shipping for 3 spray cans: www.ebay.de/itm/190438439289 It is extremy fast drying and covers very nice. I like the 133K very much - nice large bobbing and rotary hook. Too bad it has no reverse but for the thick webbing It will work (hopefully). I´m also tinking of buying the flat bad type 132K if one crosses my way for a good price. It´s stupid as I don´t need it but I just like these machiens.

This was the only one I have ever seen for sale in Germany. Can`t wait to see it fully "alive" but I still have a lot of work with the table as I have the idea of using two machines on the tables end (aim is one table, two motors, 4 machines). Belief it or not it came form the City of Bielefeld - the home of Duerkopp Adler.

Over the years I had a couple of clutch motors - some where great and some where horrible in terms of controlling them. It makes a big difference if you have one with 2800 rpm or 1400 rpm. The worst was as Singer with 2800 rpm and the very best (just sold it with my Adler III sewing machine) was an Italian Moretti with adjustable clutch. I also had 3 different servo motors and the one I´m currently using is a JACK servo with 750 Watts and it is just great only thing is that the needle positioning is not working but that is because of the speed reducer I have installed as it seems. But since I´m sewing quite slow and most of the items short seams it does not matter as I can watch the needle go up and down. I would never again buy a clutch motor for my personal use and the motor for by Singer 133K3 will be a JACK servo again (most likely).

Thanks Bob - so with other words it is possible to remove the bearing? Maybe I should try to heat the housing with a heat gun and try tapping it out.

A friend bought an optical quite nice Adler 167 from an insolvent company. Unfortunately the machine is technically totally out of time and needs a new timing belt as it is quite brittle. Seems it once was used as a binding machine. I promised to help him but I thought it would be the same as at my Singer 111 but seems the Adler 167 bearing at the hand wheel is not removable. Machine has some more issues but I think w/o a new timing belt it makes no sense to do further adjustments. Can someone give me instructions how to replace the timing belt?

sounds like the set screws of the hand wheel are loose. There is a grove or flat sport on the shaft the hand wheel is attached to and one of the screws should sit in the grove.